What's the deal with CDS?

[PaulRevere]

Brand new hunter here, trying to navigate my way through the world of scopes. It seems CDS is the standard but would appreciate input from the HuntTalk folks on the benefits it carries and really just a general explanation of CDS!

Thanks,
PaulRevere

 

[Bigjay73]

It's very simple and very usefull. Once you zero your rifle, you can adjust your elevation to match the yardage you're shooting at, so you can hold the crosshairs dead center on your target for elevation, instead of holding high or low to compensate for drop. I'm a shameless fanboy of leupold and their CDS system

 

[TOGIE]

You're talking about Leupod CDS?

The way I understand it, you just give Leupold all your ballistics information and they make a scope dial for you tailored exactly to those specs. That scope dial basically just has ranges on it. So all you really do is range your animal, dial in your range and fire away.

You would still need to zero your rifle at a range though. But this eliminates the need for holding high or low with a bullet drop compensating reticle, or doing MOA calculations in the field.

 

[Dan O]

When you buy the scope it comes with the MOA turret on it. Then you decide on a load you like and give Leopold your bullet & BC plus your velocity and elevation range you plan to hunt in. They will send you 1 free turret tuned to your load. Then sight in at 200 yards normally and range your game and dial it to that yardage. Additional turrets are around available but there is a cost. I have a VX 3 4.5x14 and the CDS works.

Good luck,
Dan

 

[Big Fin]

You're talking about Leupod CDS?

The way I understand it, you just give Leupold all your ballistics information and they make a scope dial for you tailored exactly to those specs. That scope dial basically just has ranges on it. So all you really do is range your animal, dial in your range and fire away.

You would still need to zero your rifle at a range though. But this eliminates the need for holding high or low with a bullet drop compensating reticle, or doing MOA calculations in the field.

^^^This.

For the hunting ranges I use them for, there it is the best solution I've found. I think you will like it and find it very useful.

 

[----]

I've hunted with and without the CDS, and have gone away from the dials altogether.

Just my opinion, but I've become much more a fan of the K.I.S.S. system- Sight your rifle in so it's +/-4" above/below the crosshairs out to 300 yards, get within 300 yards, and aim for the center of the lungs.

I like to eliminate all the possible variables in those stressful situations, and I think especially for a new hunter this might be a technique worth considering.

 

[Addicting]

I like the CDS but it still has its drawbacks. You have to remember that your zero changes with elevation. For example: I zeroed at sea level and hunt at 8000 feet. My POI zero at 100 yards was 3” higher where I was hunting which threw the entire dial I had ordered for the hunting elevation off. This is a quick fix by confirming zero after travel as long as you remember to bring the tiny Allen wrench. I did not and couldn’t find one small enough where I was hunting. Needless to say there were complications.

With that being said I will continue to use it and pay more attention to my packing list.

 

[belly-deep]

I've hunted with and without the CDS, and have gone away from the dials altogether.

Just my opinion, but I've become much more a fan of the K.I.S.S. system- Sight your rifle in so it's +/-4" above/below the crosshairs out to 300 yards, get within 300 yards, and aim for the center of the lungs.

I like to eliminate all the possible variables in those stressful situations, and I think especially for a new hunter this might be a technique worth considering.

I’ve come to the same conclusion as Randy. Especially after having a Leupold scope fail to track properly.

Zero it and hunt. 300 yards is still a long ways. Go the ballistic reticle route if you need to shoot beyond that. Or if you must dial, go with a fully functional tactical scope.

 

[Nameless Range]

I've only shot CDS at the range and have never hunted with one, but I really like Randy11's method and utilize that myself. Inside 300 yards, just aim and shoot. As belly-deep points out, 300 yards is a long way, especially if you are a new hunter. If after you've hunted for a bit you feel the need to get more technical and potentially shoot further, you can always spend that money.

 

[Gr8bawana]

I've hunted with and without the CDS, and have gone away from the dials altogether.

Just my opinion, but I've become much more a fan of the K.I.S.S. system- Sight your rifle in so it's +/-4" above/below the crosshairs out to 300 yards, get within 300 yards, and aim for the center of the lungs.

I like to eliminate all the possible variables in those stressful situations, and I think especially for a new hunter this might be a technique worth considering.

^^^This^^^
Know what your max range is where you can aim on your target without any holdover and never shoot if you can't get at least that close to the animal. Works every time.

 

[Gr8bawana]

oops double post

 

[Deleted member 16014]

If you're not going to hold for wind and elevation at the same time, there is minimal if any upside to dialing. If you are, it's somewhat necessary in order to be consistently effective.

 

[RobG]

Just my opinion, but I've become much more a fan of the K.I.S.S. system- Sight your rifle in so it's +/-4" above/below the crosshairs out to 300 yards, get within 300 yards, and aim for the center of the lungs.

To expand on this, if you zero in most big game rifles at 200 yards it will be about 2" high at 100 yards and about 1.5" low at 225 yards. There is no reason to use CDS at those ranges. At 300 yards it is easy enough to aim a little high to accommodate for the 8.5" drop. (My calculator shows 250 yard zero gives about +/- 4" out to 300 yards).

The thing is for ranges beyond that, if your rifle isn't zeroed at the exact yardage your CDS is calibrated for then you can get a pretty large error before you even consider your own ability. Say your rifle is sighted in 1" too low at 100 yards (easy enough for an average shooter to do), and the animal is 400 yards instead of your CDS setting of 350 because it moved after you ranged it, the error will be 15 inches before you even add in the error from the shooter itself. I think most people don't spend enough time at the range dialing in their rifle and skills so they are a good enough shot at the distances where CDS becomes useful.

 

[375H&H]

I've hunted with and without the CDS, and have gone away from the dials altogether.

Just my opinion, but I've become much more a fan of the K.I.S.S. system- Sight your rifle in so it's +/-4" above/below the crosshairs out to 300 yards, get within 300 yards, and aim for the center of the lungs.

I like to eliminate all the possible variables in those stressful situations, and I think especially for a new hunter this might be a technique worth considering.

Exactly. I have shot all of my game with a simple VX2 and vx3 and I see no reason to change and add complexity. I never shoot longer than 300yds and all my rifles are still close enough to center at that range that no adjustment is needed. I rarely shoot over 100yds actually so the issue is even less of a concern. Don't be afraid to get so close to your quarry that the shot becomes a gimme, trust me it's fun

 

[375H&H]

If you're not going to hold for wind and elevation at the same time, there is minimal if any upside to dialing. If you are, it's somewhat necessary in order to be consistently effective.

Exhibit A: Big Fin AZ elk.

 

[devon deer]

I like to keep things simple as well, i only use fixed power scopes, either 6x on my .243 or 8x on my 30-06, coupled with a home loaded cartridge that i never change for either calibre.
I have seen lots of deer live to see another day when the hunter i have been with fart's around with CDS, Parallax and illuminated reticules, just to see the backside of the deer disappear never to be seen again.
Cheers
Richard

 

[mtmuley]

A CDS dial marked in MOA is what I use. Paired with a flat shooting cartridge and a little ballistics knowledge, it can really extend your shooting range. If your into that sort of thing. mtmuley

 

[BuzzH]

To expand on this, if you zero in most big game rifles at 200 yards it will be about 2" high at 100 yards and about 1.5" low at 225 yards. There is no reason to use CDS at those ranges. At 300 yards it is easy enough to aim a little high to accommodate for the 8.5" drop. (My calculator shows 250 yard zero gives about +/- 4" out to 300 yards). I think most people don't spend enough time at the range dialing in their rifle and skills so they are a good enough shot at the distances where CDS becomes useful.

No, hell hasn't frozen over, but I do agree with RobG 100% on the bolded part.

If you're going to twist turrets, shoot past your zero range, or use a ballistic reticle...best to have your stuff together and confirmed via spent primers.

If you don't, you're in for some long days and missed opportunities.

For the record, IMO/E twisting turrets makes a whole lot more sense than messy reticles and Kentucky windage...

All that said, I would probably also NEVER recommend turrets, cluttered ballistic reticles, or hold over to a new hunter. Learning how to hunt, getting close and being within your comfort range/abilities, and keeping it simple will be wayyy more productive and rewarding to a new hunter.

 

[RobG]

Extending shooting range is easy, but if you are interested in extending your hitting range your first CDS scope should be a Harris bipod and time at the range . And Buzz, we agree on more than you think.

 

[375H&H]

Buzz did you agree with me on getting close!? I am not totally sure, so I will wait to make the final sign of the cross until advised.