Too cold for tractor?

I’d also recommend changing the fuel filter once you get it going.
I would replace the fuel filter.
Why? It's supposed to warm up next week, at least enough that this won't be an issue, 30's. Can't I just wait until then and shouldn't my filter be fine then?

I did pick up some additive for once I get it going, and I'm probably going to tarp and put a heater under it to get it into the garage. But I've also just thought of waiting it out. there's no more snow in the forecast until late next week once it's warmed back up.
 
Additive from mid November first December to first of March here. Because the temps can always drop and make sure antifreeze is good to -35. And plugged in, lot of diesels in WY but a pain in the winter. I'm glad I don't have one anymore because of that.
 
And those don't re... Melt, re dissolve, do back to the way they were when it was warmer?
Not 100% sure. When I’ve gelled pickups, then tend to idle fine once thawed but don’t run well when more fuel is needed-like running on the highway. Changing the filter has always got them going normally again.
 
When it warms up, the wax will dissolve back into the diesel. I think you do yourself a favor if you are afraid you are going to gel, to just let it sit until it warms up.

If you drive as the wax is falling out of solution, it is going to go thru the fuel line and get stopped by the filter. If you let it sit, there will be much less wax at the filter to redissolve.
 
Why? It's supposed to warm up next week, at least enough that this won't be an issue, 30's. Can't I just wait until then and shouldn't my filter be fine then?

I did pick up some additive for once I get it going, and I'm probably going to tarp and put a heater under it to get it into the garage. But I've also just thought of waiting it out. there's no more snow in the forecast until late next week once it's warmed back up.
Because you don't really know if it's jelled or if you have condensation.
 
We use 2 older tractors for feeding horses all winter. They both sit under cover but not inside.
Engine block heaters on both the Ford 7740 and the old Case IH. Both start when needed if batteries are good, lol.
The fuel for both is also in an above ground tank outside and is always at least a year old, no gelling issues as of yet.
We use them all winter and I probably just jinxed ourselves, ugh.
The Ford does have to be primed when it sits for a while.
 
When it warms up, the wax will dissolve back into the diesel. I think you do yourself a favor if you are afraid you are going to gel, to just let it sit until it warms up.

If you drive as the wax is falling out of solution, it is going to go thru the fuel line and get stopped by the filter. If you let it sit, there will be much less wax at the filter to redissolve.
Thanks for all the knowledge
 
Just a story from back in the day. I'm going on memory now, in February of 1989, there was a brutal cold snap. I was working the afternoon shift as the front came thru. That night the north and east side of the refinery were having freezing problems. We lost an employee to a heart attack as he tried to keep his unit running. The propane tanks are on the NE portion of the refinery. I sampled propane that night to certify it. I don't recall ever being more miserably cold as right there.

Anyway it was brutally cold for quite a few days, maybe a week or so. Burlington Northern had a diesel storage tank adjacent to the product pipeline going from the refinery. The diesel in that tank gelled, and for a period of time they couldn't get anything out of it.

I hope this cold snap does not overstay its welcome...maybe it already has.
 
Just a story from back in the day. I'm going on memory now, in February of 1989, there was a brutal cold snap. I was working the afternoon shift as the front came thru. That night the north and east side of the refinery were having freezing problems. We lost an employee to a heart attack as he tried to keep his unit running. The propane tanks are on the NE portion of the refinery. I sampled propane that night to certify it. I don't recall ever being more miserably cold as right there.

Anyway it was brutally cold for quite a few days, maybe a week or so. Burlington Northern had a diesel storage tank adjacent to the product pipeline going from the refinery. The diesel in that tank gelled, and for a period of time they couldn't get anything out of it.

I hope this cold snap does not overstay its welcome...maybe it already has.
We're supposed to be in the upper 20s by Tuesday. Pretty short lived here.
 
We're supposed to be in the upper 20s by Tuesday. Pretty short lived here.
-4f here now and the wind is a howling. Really nice ground blizzard. Gotta plow the end of the drive now and again in the morning unless we want to be stuck here til spring.
 
-4f here now and the wind is a howling. Really nice ground blizzard. Gotta plow the end of the drive now and again in the morning unless we want to be stuck here til spring.
-35 here this morning, but it's warmed up to -13 probably the high for the day. It's a heat wave.
 
So here is how I manage my diesel truck. I have NEVER purchased a diesel additive. Oil refineries add them while the diesel is being produced. In the winter, if I'm just knocking around and a tank of fuel might last two weeks, I NEVER fill the tank past half full. That leaves enough room to top off with enough #1 to keep you from gelling in most any conceivable temperatures you'd see in Montana. If I've topped off a tank with #1, I drive that tank down to, say a quarter tank. Then the next fill, is either with #1 or #2, temperature depending. That fill is to a half tank. Then once sub minus ten degrees are in the rear view mirror, go back to putting #2 in without a worry. The only time I fill a tank entirely in the winter with #2 is if I know that will get used before a cold snap is forecast.
This. On the ranch we have a 300 gallon tank with straight #1. If a bad cold snap like this one is on the way we run the tractors and Diesel pickups down to about half a tank and then top them off with #1. Saves a lot of cussing and very cold fingers. 38 below this morning and not one issue with fuel. Just be sure that you run the outfit enough to get the old fuel out of the lines and filters before it gets cold.
 
Well put a little additive in, topped the tank with fresh diesel (still only #2 because that's all I could find), and changed the fuel filter. Added a new magnetic block heater. Still couldn't get it started, was definitely starved of fuel.

Triple tarped it and put a space heater under it for a couple of hours last night before bed. That did the trick, fired up, ran it for another hour to make sure I had cycled fresh fuel through it. Should be good to go now.

Thanks for all the tips and help.
 

This is what i have been using in the old tractor for the last 2 winters.
The farmers tell me it willnot cause problems if I mix too much in.
So I add above recommended abounts.
ran last week at -10 with no problems. I have a good tank heater though and
put a sunflower heater under the hydraulics for an hour or 2 before using.
Stored inside

I used it with #2 diesel, abt half of the tank has been in there since last Aug,
so probably a summer blend
 
Well put a little additive in, topped the tank with fresh diesel (still only #2 because that's all I could find), and changed the fuel filter. Added a new magnetic block heater. Still couldn't get it started, was definitely starved of fuel.

Triple tarped it and put a space heater under it for a couple of hours last night before bed. That did the trick, fired up, ran it for another hour to make sure I had cycled fresh fuel through it. Should be good to go now.

Thanks for all the tips and help.
life long diesel mechanic here. These are my thoughts. I can say you probably lost the prime on your pump after jelling or have plugged your filter with wax.
Her is what I do.
First put a white bottle of power service in the tank.
Next Follow the fuel line from the tank to the engine. Does it go through an electric or cam driven pump? If so does it have any type of leaver, piston or bulb that you can pump to prime?
Regardless take the fuel filter off fill it half with diesel and half power service 911. Put it on. Does the filter housing have any leaver, piston or bulb?

Now Follow the line to the injection pump. If you found any type of hand pump you can use it to prime the lines and filter Here is how.
At the injection pump there will either be a pretty obvious bleeder screw or you can crack the line where it meets the injection pump.
If you didnt find a prime pump you continue following the fuel line it will be split into separate lines for each cylinder. Follow those to the head. They will usually meet the block with a flared nut type fitting like this
Polish_20240117_121455243.jpg

Crack some of the fittings loose and turn the engine over for a few seconds or until the engine tries to fire. Shut it off and immediately tighten the lines so no more fuel leaks out.
The engine should now start. It may be rough while it works the air out of the lines. In the future put a white bottle of power service in the tank and run it through the lines before cold whether hits.
 
life long diesel mechanic here. These are my thoughts. I can say you probably lost the prime on your pump after jelling or have plugged your filter with wax.
Her is what I do.
First put a white bottle of power service in the tank.
Next Follow the fuel line from the tank to the engine. Does it go through an electric or cam driven pump? If so does it have any type of leaver, piston or bulb that you can pump to prime?
Regardless take the fuel filter off fill it half with diesel and half power service 911. Put it on. Does the filter housing have any leaver, piston or bulb?

Now Follow the line to the injection pump. If you found any type of hand pump you can use it to prime the lines and filter Here is how.
At the injection pump there will either be a pretty obvious bleeder screw or you can crack the line where it meets the injection pump.
If you didnt find a prime pump you continue following the fuel line it will be split into separate lines for each cylinder. Follow those to the head. They will usually meet the block with a flared nut type fitting like this
View attachment 311210

Crack some of the fittings loose and turn the engine over for a few seconds or until the engine tries to fire. Shut it off and immediately tighten the lines so no more fuel leaks out.
The engine should now start. It may be rough while it works the air out of the lines. In the future put a white bottle of power service in the tank and run it through the lines before cold whether hits.
thanks for the tutorial. Haven't had a problem yet but now I know where to look. Much appreciated
 

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