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Rifle Build Questions

MinnesotaHunter

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Sep 15, 2010
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Location
White Bear Lake, Minnesota
Well, I am starting down the road of doing my first rifle build, and I am hoping I can get some opinions/advice out of the group. I am not a trained gunsmith, so I will be relying on a shop around here to do some/most of the work.

I am looking to put together a lightweight rifle built on either a Rem Model 700 SA or Model Seven action chambered in .260 Rem. For the finish I am going to do Cera-coating. Here is the list of components I am going to start getting together for it:

1. #2 profile 22" fluted BBL (Not sure what manufacturer yet)
2. McMillian Hunters edge or B&C Alaskan TI stock
2. Pacific Tool and Guage 3 position safety Bolt Shroud and recoil lug
3. Dakota Bottom Metal
4. Talley Lightweights
5. Leupold Ultralight 3-9x33mm

Here are the questions:

1. What do people think about the 700 vs the Seven actions? I am leaning towards the Seven because it is about an inch shorter/lighter.

2. Does anyone have any experience with the aftermarket 3-position safeties for Remingtons?

3. I am thinking of leaving the X-mark trigger alone (if I get an action with one). Does anyone see any reason not to just use the X-mark?

I appreciate any help/advice you guys can offer on this rifle. With the current environment I am not expecting to hunt with this rifle until the 2014 season.

Thanks

Ross
 
I know it's not part of the questions but you may struggle to find a #2 fluted (depending on what manufacturer). I have a Rock Creek #2 (.575 at the business end) and I don't think it is fluteable...nor would I want to. If it were me I would go with a tube that is .600 or less and skip the flutes because it will save you an extra $100.
 
Jr

I will have to look into that. I was basing it off of the Weatherby Mark V ultralight's #2 fluted BBL.

I am in no way committed to a fluted BBL, I am really just trying to make the thing light.

The more I get into this process, the more it seems I could just by a Kimber Montana and have it rebarrelled to 260, but what fun would that be?
 
It certianly is easier....but not much fun.

I just had this built.

7 Mashburn
700 LA tured
#2 Rock Creek finished at 26"
McM EDGE KS contour
Timney Trigger
Cerakoted graphite black with contrasting purple flutes.

Scoped, slinged, and carrying 8 rounds it comes in at 8lbs

IMG950216_zps9d033e5d.jpg

IMG950218_zps0622bdbd.jpg

20130212_185150_zpsa8094a5e.jpg
 
IMO if you're going to trick out your gun, I'd change the trigger. Look into a Jewel or Timney trigger, some Remington factory triggers are good, but I've seen several that won't adjust to the advertised ranges. I really like good triggers.
 
Nice build JR! (Except for the purple:)). How hard does she kick? What bullets and velocities?
 
FWIW, the cost of the 3pos safety and it's installation really can add up. IIRC ir runs in the neighborhood of $300. That puts you very close to the cost of a custom action, though most Rem clones still don't have a 3pos safety. What's your weight goal? You could probably keep everything the same but switch to a Win 70 short action and only be about 1/4# different.

I'd go with the 700. The weight/size difference IMO is a wash and there's a lot more readily available parts and higher resale with the 700. That said, if you are planning on have it fully blue printed I'd really consider going with a custom action.

I'd also consider going with an ADL style (ie no bottom metal). Saves some $$ and possibly some weight.

However, like you said, it'd probably be easier, cheaper (assuming you got the donor cheap enough), and lighter to rebarrel a Kimber. I just bought one in 300 WSM on the cheap. It's a bit rough on the outside, which is easily fixed. If it doesn't shoot I'll have it rebarreled and still be within about a $100 dollars of a new one.
 
Looks pretty good. I'd go Jewell trigger, ADL McMillan edge, scrap the bottom medal and the 3 position safety unless it's something you gotta have. Post some pics when your done
 
I've been working on a build as well. Lots of fun to decide exactly what you want. Here's what I've decided on so far:

7mm Rem Mag
Stiller predator action
26" bartlein #3 fluted
Mcmillan Hunter Edge
ADL
Timney trigger
 
Nice build JR! (Except for the purple:)). How hard does she kick? What bullets and velocities?

Just a touch more than my 7mag, I don't really notice much of a difference.

I plan to loan the Barnes LRX 168 at 3,100-3,200. But will experiment with the LRX145 and TTSX in 140 and 150 a little bit.

In a perfect world my sevens will be:
7x57 - 120gr @2,800
7RM - 145gr @3,100
7Mashburn - 168gr @ 3,150+

So far I have the first two.
 
MinnHunter

Go with a trued 700. You can get a #2 with flutes, they just won't be as deep. Go with the premium trigger. Don't worry about shaving a hunnert$ or two...you'll second guess forever.

NIce piece jr.I like the purple and I love the .284..
 
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Get a nice trigger. I grew up without them and a smooth, crisp trigger you can adjust will improve your shooting.

I only shoot Win Mod 70 actions and the 3-position safety is nice when you need to shuck a round that is chambered since eliminates the risk of discharge if you accidently snag a twig on the trigger as you go to shuck the round.
 
I'd skip the flutes and put the money into a trigger myself. I've always had ADL's and prefer them (one less moving part, and good metal is expensive) on that style of rifle. I'd consider the lightweight Manners stocks as well. If you're considering the Kimber/re-barrel route you might think about the Forbes rifles too. SA's are supposed to come out this summer or fall.
 
Thanks for all of the input, and JR, sweet rifle. Not sure I would do the purple flutes, I light try the zombie green.

I think I am going to go the ADL route, after the suggestions, and then thinking about how few times I really unload the magazine of my rifle during a hunt, it seems like the way to go. I will drop the bottom metal money on the trigger, seems like a better investment.

I will have to see what the flutes are really going to save me in weight, it might not be worth it on such a slim barrel.

Next question, is there a good source of already trued actions? I am looking at what a donor rifle is going to cost and comparing it to an already trued action. A quick google search led me to this: http://www.nwactionworks.com/#!group-buy/c1uug. Anyone heard of these guys and if this is a good deal?

Thanks a ton.
 
The benefit of the flutes is they allow you to step up one size in barrel, you get a heavier, stiffer, arguable more accurate, barrel and knock a little weight off of it with the flutes.

As for the action, who are you having put your build together? I wouldn't send your action to one place and then have your barrel chambered at another and then put together someplace else. You'll spend a lot in shipping. Get your parts together, find one gunsmith that you think will do a good job, then have them so everything to your specs would be my recommendation.
 
Spitz-

I am still in the process of picking a place. Right now I am looking at the option of having Northwest Actionworks put together a barreled action for me, have them ship it to me unfinished. I will then get it Cerakoted and bedded in the stock here locally.

Otherwise, I was looking at a local place here called Alman's to do the building.

I would love to here some references for their work if anyone has dealt with them.
 
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