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No entiendo lo que estas diciendo. ¿Hablas inglés? - An Argentinian Experience

seeth07

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"No entiendo lo que estas diciendo. ¿Hablas inglés?"

In english: "I don't understand what you are saying. Do you speak english?" As with any translation, I'm not 100 percent positive that the english to spanish translation from google is exactly correct but we were understood when we said this phrase upon meeting someone. I learned to say this phrase quickly because it became immediately evident that after deboarding into Ezeiza International Airport that we had left the comfort of home into a world where written and spoken lauguage was going to be completley foreign to us. It was the first phrase I entered into my google translator and certainly would not be the last. What was the typical response we would receive? How about a slight smirk and a hand pointed out tilting back and forth. A gesture that universally means "a little" but obviously they didnt know how to say "a little". The fun begins.

My goal is going to be to take you all on a large series of posts in which some will include a lot of photos and some will include a lot of writting. There is a lot to tell and a lot of cool experiences that I hope to capture in storytelling for both my own record keeping and the readers enjoyment. It will not be quick. I've been gone for 11 days now and there is a lot to catch up on and many chores and things to do at home. So bare with me as I take you along on what was an incredible 10 days in Argentina.

But first I need to start with something that easily sums up the entire reason and goal why my wife and I traveled halfway across the world to go hunting when we could simply just hunt out our back door. If all you do is read this first post, I feel its important that you get to read this so rather than wait until the end, I want to share it now.

On our 2nd night at the big game "Mencota" estate, our 5th night overall there, my wife had decided to go take a shower and head to bed after dinner rather than sit and sip drinks and talk. I was not ready to call it a night so I sat at the dinner table sipping on some fine scotch with the rancher owner, his nephew and our outfitter. They were talking in spanish and I didnt understand really most of it but I did pick up on some words and when I heard the word "general" and "conquistador" I became intrigued and asked the outfitter to explain to me what they were talking about. He explained to me that the owner was talking about his great grandfather who was a general in the army and about how he built and formed this ranch back in 1886 by fighting off the natives. Their family began farming sheep and ships from India would show up for the wool and in trade they brought all kinds of goods. Among those goods were axis deer, blackbucks and water buffalo since the natives and conquistidors over the prior years had killed off a lot of the native wildlife and they were starving due to lack of meat. His great grandfather wanted the wild life as a means to provide a food source for the years to come beyond just lamb.

Very intrigued by this wildlife to land to rancher relationship, I asked the outfitter if he could help me translate some questions I have for the owner. He obligued and the main question I had to ask him was "Why is it important to you to open your home for me to come and experience this. Is it just to make money off what you have or is it something more than that?"

I did not record the conversation, answer was in spanish and then translated for me through the outfitter so all I can do is paraphrase and get it close. I was blown away.

He said that he is very rich, has more money than he knows what to do with so it has nothing to do with money. He enjoys being able to share what he has with others that will appreciate it just as much as he does. The locals don't and most have fallen away from their heritage and their ancestors way of life. Americans come and are always grateful and thankful to be here. But above all else, its about conservation and preserving these wild animals even though they aren't a native species. These animals only live on my large estate because I pay the police to keep the poachers out. They are smart animals and know to not be near the edges of my ranch, within range of the road. If I dont have people coming here, I will die off and maybe my nephew here decides its not worth paying the police anymore. The animals will all go away, it has happened to other estates. I value these animals as part of my heritage and part of our lives here on the ranch.

Yes, there were a lot of animals on this ranch. It was massive, absolutely free range, just fences for the different cattle grazing areas but easily crossed by wildlife under and over them. The hunting was truly not crazy difficult. Numerous, constant sightings of wildlife and oppurtunities. However, it was at that dinner table that I found what I came to Argentina for. To embrace the experience for what it is and not compare or expect it to be what we are used to in the States. Turns out, hunting is exactly the same afterall, a love for animals, food, heritage, people and life.

If you have never visited a country outside of the US (I'm going to toss in Canada with the US as well since from my one experience there it was very similar) you absolutely have to do it as a bucket list item. Pick someplace and just go. Don't wait either, do it now and you won't regret it. It will open your mind to what hunting really is and until you take such a trip, I don't think you can truly understand what I mean.
 
Day 1 - Asombrado de los patos (Amazed at the ducks)

Right after getting off the plane, it became clear very quickly that we weren't in the States anymore. Just about everything written was only in Spanish. The employees working at customs did not speak much English which made it a little bit difficult for us to answer the questions our customs officer was asking of us. There was a lot of gesturing and pointing to things on our phones to communicate to her. Beyond the communication struggle, it was quite surprising to us how easy it was to get our passports checked and bags ran through an x-ray machine to clear customs. I was honestly a little worried with some of the hunting gear we packed (such as boots, knives, optics) that we might get questioned and inspected more closely.

Now for the part that was causing me a little anxiety on the trip - finding our ride. We followed the instructions we received from the outfitter for meeting up with our driver and actually found him easily. His name was Andre and he spoke absolutely no English. This would prove to be a bit awkward, wait no, extremely awkward since the ride to the lodge was almost 5 hours from the airport. It was mostly sitting in silence and observing the scenery outside. It took maybe 30 minutes or so to get outside of the city and it quickly turned into a vast flat countryside. The vegetation that I observed looked very similar to places back home. Marshlands that had plants that look like our cattails. Tall grasses. Plants that looked like yucca. Tumbleweeds. Soybean and corn fields. There is not a lot of trees or brushes and they mainly occur in small rows or pockets. Basically picture central NE along I-80. There are cattle and sheep everywhere. They are not congregated like you see in some areas around the States but rather spread out as far as the eye can see. They are grazing across a vast landscape with lush green grasses and pastures containing clover and alfalfa. They are all fat and healthy. It's easy to understand why the cattle industry is so lucrative here.

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It was surprising to me how many brands I recognized while driving. John Deere, Stihl, Chevy, Ford, Cargill, Case, Shell, Nestle to just name a few.

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The directions on the drivers phone mounted to the dash tell us that we are getting close - about 50km away. Dang American Standard units. Good thing I'm actually pretty familiar with the metric system making it pretty smooth for me to convert and understand units while on this trip. The driver makes a phone call and no one answers. 10 minutes later, he turns on his blinker and makes a left onto a gravel road - a pretty good one. He drives slow, 20km/hr. I can tell by his body language he isn't very happy. We continue and after going through a small ragged town, the gravel road on the other side turned to a rutted up dirt road. The driver I'm pretty sure was mumbling Spanish curse words. His little Toyota car starts to bottom out on the road. We are crawling at a snails pace and it takes us nearly an hour to go the last 20km. He was going that slow.

We arrive at the lodge and its gorgeous. Tucked well away from the road among a large pocket of trees the lodge sits. Damian, the outfitter in charge of running this lodge, greets us and gives us a tour of the place. We drop our bags off in our room, get a little bit situated and then we meet Damian back in the family room to sit down and have a snack. Finally some conversations in English. He speaks it pretty well and we can communicate without any issues. He tells us about what the plans will be for that afternoon and after 30 minutes or so, he asks us to go get ready so we can leave.

We head out and its about a 15 minutes drive to the hunting location. I know at this point I was a little confused on how we were going to find a spot to hunt. In all the driving we did, I did not see any ducks. There wasn't a lot of water although there were numerous locations where it was obvious that water should be. The country is in a mega drought, the worst in 70 years they told me. We actually knew this going into the trip because the outfitter told me that we could rebook our trip for next year if we wanted due to the really bad drought.

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We make a turn off the main road and there is a gate we need to unlock to gain access to a serious of farm fields. Still no water, no waterfowl. We drive across a roughly square mile picked soybean field and hit some two track farm roads between fields, grasslands and tree lines/small pockets of brushes. About 3 miles in from the main road I spot a pair of ducks on the horizon. Then a single. Then more and a bottom land with water appears in sight. My jaw hits the floor. It is COVERED in birds and by covered, I mean the entire pond is just black. It is a fairly large pond, maybe 300 yards wide by 600 yards long and I didn't even know how to estimate how many birds were actually sitting on it. They were not all ducks either, there were Flamingos, swans, grebs and dozens of Nutria along the banks.

Raul was with us and he was to be our field hand. He speaks no English. He really isn't a "guide" as for the most part he just sits there. His job is to just help us if we need it, provide us our shells as needed and keep count of the ducks we shoot.

We don't park away from the pond. Instead we just drive right up to the blind location and the ducks do spook but just barely. Most fly out to the middle of the pond. We unload a bunch of blind material to freshen up the blind and we get 2 dozen decoys set. We get situated in the blind with Raul and Damian drives the truck away so he can just watch from a distance.

It doesn't take long and the ducks start coming back. I wanted to give my wife the first duck. Here comes a pair. No real good shot and they land out at about 60 yards. Repeat. Repeat again. Maybe this isn't going to be easy as it looks and banking 40 yard shots might be what we have to take. Finally a single gives it up 100%, straight on shot, 15 yards away and feet in the landing position. My wife easily folds him and we are on the board. An hour later filled with absolute complete chaos at times, Raul says "hecho" - done. Ducks were floating in the water all around us - supposedly 30 of them as we were allowed to shoot 15 each. As we go to help collect them, we find 21 ducks dead floating around. There were 3 we know we hit that sailed and went to the other side of the pond. We notice Raul was headed that way and ends up over there to took. He comes back with only 2.

I'll be honest, it was so fast and furious, combined with my excitement, that I really wasn't keeping a count myself. 23 lay in front of us rather than 30. I was a little confused by this and later understood that when you shoot at a duck, it counts. It is how they address and deal with people skybusting, shooting at everything, cripples, wounding birds, etc. I actually greatly appreciated this approach and just wish I would have understood it to start. It meant that going forward we were going to be more selective in our shots, careful following birds we shoot at to ensure they fall and make sure that a bird dropped on the water is dead and shoot again if necessary until they are. So we shot at 8 ducks that we did not retrieve and I know of at least 2 that we definitely hit and are crippled somewhere at that pond. This cripple loss is going to be something that continues to bug me on this trip going forward.


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We felt a little rushed on this first afternoon. From the setup, to the shooting, to the retrieving to the pickup and finally photos (which didn't even really happen) it was all very fast and we felt pressured a little bit to keep moving. Both of us were a little unhappy with that and we made it clear later that night about how we felt and how we wanted to proceed. I'm glad we did.

Back at the lodge, we both finally got to take a much needed shower and then we went to the family room to meet the other two hunters that were staying there with us this first night. They had already got back from their afternoon hunt ahead of us and were already sipping on some drinks.

They were a father and son group from South Georgia. The son was in his mid 40s and the father was about to turn 72. It was pleasant being able to share and talk about our first impressions and experience with another American group. It was also fantastic that they were both waterfowl fanatics and toss me in a room with someone that wants to talk ducks and I'm a happy camper.

We get sat at the dining table and out comes an elegant fine dinner of chicken and mushroom in cream sauce over rice. Fine dining will continue to be a highlight and main portion of this trip moving forward. They sure do know how to eat well down there. This meal ended with an incredible dessert. I don't remember what it was called but it was spectacular.

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We move to go sit by the fireplace for a few cocktails/wine and continue to swap hunt stories with both Damian and the two from Georgia. Was a great way to cap off the day and we both can't wait for more the next day.
 
Looking forward to following this hunt thread. Did they supply the firearms for this hunt? If so, what firearms did they supply?
 
Looking forward to following this hunt thread. Did they supply the firearms for this hunt? If so, what firearms did they supply?
Yes they did. We could have traveled with our own but would have had to deal with a longer processing at customs along with a $250 or so fee to bring them in per gun. For waterfowl hunting, we weren't too concerned about using their shotguns. They had black Franchi Affinity semi autos for the most part. There were some over under options as well, I didn't look too close at them. The gun safe had about 30 guns in it and you just picked the one you wanted to use.

For big game, I was a little more worried. Turns out we got to use a pretty cool gun and at the range both my wife and I shot it pretty good. I'll get into the gun in the hunt story with some photos when I dig them out. I was 2" high at 100 yards and my wife was 6" right at 100 yards. Both shot a group under a quarter size for 3 shots. We told the outfitter we were both comfortable out to 200 yards given the feel and how we shot - my wife just needed to account for that 6" to the right.
 
Day 2 - Me encanta el asado (I love Barbeque)

Getting no solid sleep on the flight down, I hit the pillow and was out. I don't think I even moved all night because when the house staff knocked on the door to wake us up, I awoke with a crazy stiff neck. There must have been some miscommunication because we were supposed to be at the breakfast table by 5:15am but I looked at my phone and saw 5:14am. We quickly get dressed and head out to the dining room with plates already served and ready for us. Bacon and eggs. Lots of different toasted bread and jams. Coffee. All good with me, quite the pre hunt breakfast.

Yesterday they gave me hip waders to use. When retrieving ducks, the water was right at the top of them and with some waves I ended up getting both feet wet. Requested actual waders today. They are some cheap China brand neoprene but with temperatures forecast to be right at freezing, I don't want to get wet or cold and was happy to have any sort of neoprenes.

I got a Shot Cam from my wife for Christmas and decided to bring that along with today. I haven't got to use it much and I'll be uploading some videos once I get it all figured out how to do so. My wife and I talked before leaving that today our goal was going to be more picky about our shots and make full effort to make nice, clean shots so they land stone cold dead in the decoys. No more swimmers getting away. No more winging birds. We also want to take some more videos of the experience and soak in as much of it as we can.

Damian drove us again but today we have a new field hand - Lucas. He actually speaks really good English and is a chef with his own cookbook including wild game recipes. Couldn't ask for a better companion in the blind this morning.

Ranches all have a very familiar look to them - not much different from back home. Cattle guards, gates, entrances, name plates, old equipment, etc.
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Its chilly but not the extreme waterfowl cold we typically experience in WI. It's dead calm out and we are setup on this small opening in a marsh off of a main narrow body of water, not a river but rather a super long, skinny pond. I can hear pintails, widgeon and teal. They make very similar sounds to their cousins in North America. It is still very dark but we can make out ducks starting to move around.

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Birds start coming our way, low and nearly impossible to pick out before they are already on top of us and landing in the decoys. Dozens fill in and its a complete circus in our little hole that is not more than 30 yards across. Finally my wife is able to catch a single coming from her side of the blind and she pops up early but the bird has no chance as he can't get turned around and a shot rings out followed by the folding of a duck. She gets a chance right away again on another. Next thing I know, we both have gone through a box of shells. I believe in those first boxes, we each only missed one duck. There are dead ducks everywhere floating in our hole - more dead ducks than we have decoys (we set out about 18). With the sun coming up and the fact that we were off their main flyway of trading up and down the main narrow pond, it turned out after that first volley to be nice and slow and steady for another hour or so. Each another box of shells and Lucas tells us we hit our 50. It was almost always shooting at a single or pair but we did miss quite a few from those second boxes of shells. We collected 41 ducks and I had counted that we should have had 42. Guess one cripple got away. I hated how this didn't bother Lucas at all but was tearing me apart. He even said that collecting 41 of the 42 I counted was fantastic and they often only end up picking up 30-35 for each morning group. We shot Yellowbill pintails, white cheeked pintails, red shovelers, speckled teal and a single cinnamon teal.

We also had a cool experience with some swans.

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On the way out we stopped to talk with this particular ranch owner and what he was up to. There were pieces of a freshly butchered cow hung up all over from tree branches and there was also a pig hanging up whole - freshly just killed. We watched him wash and scald all of the hair off. Next he slit the throat and collected all of the blood in a pan for making blood sausage. He was super nice and friendly to us and spoke very little English. He explained to Damian that next week he is headed to Colorado and Montana to look at some Angus stock for breeding into his herd. I didn't realize that people from around the world come to America for such a thing, I thought that was pretty cool.

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We head a few miles down the road to another ranch that has a huge man made lake. The father/son from Georgia was meeting us there. When we pulled in, the rancher was working on a fire and getting coals for something inside. Turns out, he was preparing an Asado for us. The meat? A young pig. This place was extremely old and rustic and couldn't ask for a cooler place to sit back and drink some wine/beers and enjoy all kinds of fantastic food. Cheeses, sausage, breads, potatoes, sausages, pork. We relax and eat for a few hours.

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While relaxing along the lake, we can easily see the massive amounts of birds using it. There are two blinds situated on opposite ends and our evening hunt was going to be simple - all we had to do was walk out to the blinds from here and start shooting.

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As easy and simple as that sounds, it actually didn't go very well for us. The father/son got the blind with the wind at their backs and we got the one with it right in our face. Its just about impossible to shoot ducks when they are flying right at you, with the wind and they want to turn and land into the wind but don't want to fly to the shoreline, turn and come back. So they would turn 30-50 yards in front of us and just land way away from us. Not helping the situation was the way they set up the decoys for the wind. They were straight out in front of us at 20 yards. Birds were landing in front of the decoys never wanting to come in range. We ended up shooting 15 ducks and missing 3 in about 1.5 hours and between the two of us, we had pretty much spooked the lake clear of all ducks. The outfitter decided to just make us all leave and he didn't want to let us stick it out for any longer to do any more shooting. I thought that was kind of ridiculous because I thought it was still good and certainly not worth giving up on the hunt. Plus this lake had lots of white faced whistling ducks which are by far the coolest and most unique duck we encountered. They come in from a mile high and decoy kind of like snow geese with this absolutely obscure call. There father/son ended up getting 19 but they were at 28 when told to quit. They did way more shooting and missing than we did over the entire trip.


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Back to lodge and we got to meet two new hunters, an older father and son from central California. The old man was about to turn 86. Not bad to still be shooting doves and ducks at 86, I sure hope I can be doing that. They had arrived mid day and got out for a duck hunt that afternoon too. Dinner tonight was a traditional Argentine stew with beef and lentils. I had never actually heard of lentils before let alone try them. It was pretty darn good. Good fit as a hearty winter time meal after a long day of being gone hunting. Dessert again was nothing less than spectacular.

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I am enjoying your amazing adventure @seeth07 and really appreciate the effort to show how it all went down.

Such an amazing array of beautiful ducks so far, and only we are only on the second day of hunting.
 
Found it funny when you’re saying you like lentils. They are grown a lot in southern Sask so I have eaten lots out of the combine and always thought they tasted like crap lol
 
It was surprising to me how many brands I recognized while driving. John Deere, Stihl, Chevy, Ford, Cargill, Case, Shell, Nestle to just name a few.
There are John Deere plants in south america that makes large row crop tractors just like in the states. They sell to a different market.
 
For the likes because that's what you do these days right? Actually it was pretty cool that our field hand Lucas did this for us, we actually didn't know he was recording us shooting until I missed and then I shot again but after my wife shot the first time and we argued about who got that duck. Lucas was like "well I got perfect video of it, lets review!" Turns out my wife smoked it and my second shot was another whiff!

 
Just out of curiosity, do you get to bring all the duck meat back with you? And are any of those ducks getting stuffed to go on your mantle? Some of them looked pretty unique.
 
Just out of curiosity, do you get to bring all the duck meat back with you? And are any of those ducks getting stuffed to go on your mantle? Some of them looked pretty unique.
Unfortunately, Argentina is pretty strict about exports of wild animals. During my research of this trip, that was one of the first things I looked into and after finding out how strict they were, I actually looking into heading to a different country (Chile, Uruguay and Paraguay). In the end, we just felt we weren't going to get the same waterfowl experience outside of Argentina.

Basically Argentina has a 100% ban on exporting any part or piece of a native species which includes waterfowl. Therefore, not even a feather could be brought home. They are less strict on non native species such as Axis deer, Blackbuck and water buffalo.

The meat from our ducks shot were all used. They are breasted out back at the lodge by the guides and the remains are thrown into the pig pen. The meat is used at the lodge (we ate a lot of duck in appetizers) and then also donated to local food banks. They even donate it to the local school and its used for school lunches.
 
Unfortunately, Argentina is pretty strict about exports of wild animals. During my research of this trip, that was one of the first things I looked into and after finding out how strict they were, I actually looking into heading to a different country (Chile, Uruguay and Paraguay). In the end, we just felt we weren't going to get the same waterfowl experience outside of Argentina.

Basically Argentina has a 100% ban on exporting any part or piece of a native species which includes waterfowl. Therefore, not even a feather could be brought home. They are less strict on non native species such as Axis deer, Blackbuck and water buffalo.

The meat from our ducks shot were all used. They are breasted out back at the lodge by the guides and the remains are thrown into the pig pen. The meat is used at the lodge (we ate a lot of duck in appetizers) and then also donated to local food banks. They even donate it to the local school and its used for school lunches.
Too bad you couldn’t have brought a few home to mount!
 
Too bad you couldn’t have brought a few home to mount!
Yes no doubt but in the end, we had determined that it wasn't that important to us as was the experience. We could have gone to Chile and been able to export ducks back. However, most outfits I talked with made it very clear that waterfowl hunting was going to be much more like hunting in the US than Argentina. Not that is necessarily a bad thing and maybe one day I'll make that trip but for this trip the goal was to fulfill a life long dream of seeing skies black with ducks and them just coming and coming non stop to the blind. Dream fulfilled!
 
By the way, sorry the recap is going so slow. I have backed up 85 videos and almost 1000 photos to my google photos from the trip and each day I took a lot of very detailed notes and its a lot to go back through. Plus I'm also having my wife review what I'm writing. Combine that with the crazy work schedule this week and typical summer night plans and there isn't a lot of time to put it together. I have day three done just need the wife to review. Uploading day 3 videos I think are worth sharing to youtube now.
 
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