Yeti GOBOX Collection

Looking at buying a new rifle... Custom? Semi-Custom?

Did I miss something, or did you not mention what caliber the rifle is? Unless you have put thousands of rounds through it, the barrel wear is not going to be an issue.

If you are using a lead sled, your problem could be how you hold the rifle while in the lead sled. I think that it is really easy to over-torque a rifle using a lead sled, based on my own experience. I love mine, but there is definitely a learning curve with some rifles. My Ruger American is a hammer, but it is easy to get groups just like you posted, if not held right over the sled. Try to concentrate on holding the rifle like you would while shooting at an animal and see if that helps. Do not tie the rifle down in the sled and do not put extreme weight on it.
 
It's a 7mm Rem Mag.

I've been shooting it without the sled lately on bags. When I did use the sled I learned pretty quickly not to tie it down to the sled because of terrible groups. Now when I use it I just lay it in the cradle and hold the side of the forestock.

I doubt I've hit 1,000 rounds through it yet. Probably somewhere between 500 - 600 or so.
 
Never thought much about throat wear until now. It seems unlikely that you have done this but shooting athrough a hot barrel will do that. I think you awe it to yourself to take it to a gunsmith and see what he says. A bore scope will eliminate possibilities and then you will have it there for somebody to possibly bed the action and double check the float on the barrel. A good gunsmith can turn a high quality gun into a shooter about 99% of the time. But! Price the work you may be able to buy a new gun for similar money.if the gun has some sentimental value deffinitely go to a gunsmith next. I agree that it seems to be ok for your hunt as well.

One question though, how many times did you use copper solvent? I once had a gun that was fouled terri ly and it really didn't shoot until I cleaned it three times. Mine seemed to just never group. A little different than what you're seeing.
 
Take the gun to a good 'smith and have it bedded/floated before you ditch it.
 
A loose action screw, especially the front one will cause problems. I'd say you're good to go this weekend. I'd hunt the Federal blue box and worry about experimenting with other ammo after the season. Heck, Santa may bring your a reloading setup... ;) :D
 
When I cleaned it with the copper foamy stuff it didn't show any blue at all. It is supposed to turn blue when it reacts with copper. I cleaned it good with solvent before I did the copper foamy stuff.

The last 100 rounds through it before I cleaned it were coated e-tip bullets so it kind of makes sense that it wouldn't have too much copper fouling.
 
I don't have a lot of sentimental attachment to this gun. I'm sure a better stock would be a good start to getting it shooting better, I'm sure I could work hard on it and get it to a 1 MOA gun, but at the same time I could probably sell it for not much less than I paid for it and get on with life.

It seems like some guns shoot really well and some don't. Same make and model even. I would love to have a big game hunting rifle that shot as well as my AR15.

I've been looking at some of the higher end productioin guns like the Kimber Mountain Ascent, Sako A7 Roughtech, Montana Rifle Company Extreme X2 and although I joked about them earlier, maybe even a Forbes. Reading around on the internet you can read bad things about most of these companies (except Sako, not many bad reviews on them, but I did read some bad reviews on an 85.)

Not a lot more $ to go from those to some of the lesser known custom rifles though. You get into the super lightweight stuff and some of the big name custom makers and the price sure jumps a couple K's in a hurry though.
 
If have not checked the crown on the end of your barrel, do so. I took a tumble in AK and had a slight nick on the crown from some of the rock interaction.

Did not notice since was more concerned with my body at that moment.

A few months later am getting ready for the next season and my tack driver is no longer shooting worth a damn. The nick on the crown was so slight I assumed was a non-factor. Remounted rings, the scope, still shot bad. The crown was the issue.
 
If you don't have another big game rifle, I'd caution you to not sell this one to buy another. I know you travel a bit to hunt. If this would have happened a day or two before you left on an out of state hunt it wouldn't be fun. If I'm driving to a destination, I take a second rifle as well just in case. Once you buy another rifle, get this one working acceptably and then you'll have a backup.

FWIW, Forbes is now out of business though I've read that Melvin Forbes of New Ultra Light Arms will work on them.
 
1_pointer said:
If you don't have another big game rifle, I'd caution you to not sell this one to buy another. I know you travel a bit to hunt. If this would have happened a day or two before you left on an out of state hunt it wouldn't be fun. If I'm driving to a destination, I take a second rifle as well just in case. Once you buy another rifle, get this one working acceptably and then you'll have a backup.

FWIW, Forbes is now out of business though I've read that Melvin Forbes of New Ultra Light Arms will work on them.
Click to expand...

Agreed.

Also, I was talking to another guy on here who was looking at picking up a Forbes and spoke with Melvin, who said he will work on them, but won't honor the warranty. Ed might be able to elaborate.
 
Yeah, Forbes is tits up.

If you want an accurate rifle, I'd get the Sako.
 
Sako's website shows they make the A7 Roughtech in .300 WSM, but I haven't found one for sale in that caliber anywhere. They are actually pretty reasonable, looks like $1,100 MSRP.

7 1/2 pounds is about as heavy as I would want to go though.
 
npaden said:
Sako's website shows they make the A7 Roughtech in .300 WSM, but I haven't found one for sale in that caliber anywhere. They are actually pretty reasonable, looks like $1,100 MSRP.

7 1/2 pounds is about as heavy as I would want to go though.
Click to expand...

If you're after accuracy, that's probably a much safer way to go than the Kimber.
 
npaden said:
It seems like some guns shoot really well and some don't. Same make and model even. I would love to have a big game hunting rifle that shot as well as my AR15.

I've been looking at some of the higher end productioin guns like the Kimber Mountain Ascent, Sako A7 Roughtech, Montana Rifle Company Extreme X2 and although I joked about them earlier, maybe even a Forbes.
Click to expand...

Sound like you've almost talked yourself into a new rifle. With that said I'll suggest some things you might consider when using a factory rifle with factory ammo now and for the future.

- Some rifles need to have some fouling shots fired after a thorough cleaning. Factory barrels are notorious for this and each one is different. I know of a .308 Win with close to 8000 rounds through it and you might as well send the first 6-7 shots into the dirt before it settles back in.

- Just because you're shooting the same make/brand of factory ammo doesn't mean too much if the different boxes come from a different lot number. I have seen the same ammo with different lot numbers have a 80fps difference in speed run through my magnetospeed chronograph.

- I have found shooting different types/brand of bullets over the top of one another without a thorough cleaning in between can cause some very frustrating results on paper. Different powder or bullets foul a rifle in different ways.

- I also know the above holds true with different types/brand of powders with the same bullet.

Are you shooting factory ammo with your AR and mixing ammo?

Last thing I'll suggest is if you're going to limit yourself to 200 yd shots when hunting then punch paper at 200 yds - you may change your mine after that.

The last time I shot off a bench at 100 yds. was when I was breaking in a new barrel - I see no need to shoot at that short of a distance but then I'm not a bench rest shooter.

Most guys on here will call me nuts but here is how I sight in my rifle after I have chosen a load. I go to the range and fire 1-2 shots at what I want it zerod at with my bipod in prone position and go home, next trip same rifle same ammo same distance and fire one round - I repeat until I know I have a cold bore accurate zero. After that I may shoot 1-2 rounds a day starting at 500 yds and beyond. When I miss or make a bad shot I have no one to blame except the nut behind the bolt.

I can also tell you the difference in how many clicks on my scope difference I have from shooting off a bench versus shooting off my tripod/backpack in prone position.

A 100 yd bench rest result just gets me close.
 
My $1100 Kimber shot worse than what you're seeing, with factory and a whole pile of reloads. So did a friends Kimber. They're a dice roll.

As mentioned, one thing at a time. It's not the scope so it has to be the rifle. There are lots of things you can do, one at a time and when done it will shoot or it won't. Since the scope has been eliminated, barrel heat would be my first check. Pencil barrels from some mfg need several minutes between shots.
If I had a hunt coming up this weekend I'd take the AR and not make a hurried decision on the other gun.
 
Last edited:
cowboy said:
Are you shooting factory ammo with your AR and mixing ammo?
Click to expand...

Yep, that is the crazy thing. I've shot under 1 MOA groups with cheap winchester ammo from walmart, cheap remmington ammo, and just today I shot 3 different brands of ammo through it. All of them were 55 gr and they all were right on target.

It does shoot best with the Hornady VMax ammo, that's what I've shot .5 MOA with.

I realize that is not something I can expect from a big game rifle, but it sure would be nice.
 
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