Day 2 - Time to start hunting
May 4th - Up and out the door by 5:00 am. Raining, and we already have lost a half hour of hunting time. Oh well, everyone says the morning is not the best bear hunting time, so not to worry.
We jumped in the skiff, rounded the point and were pelted by rain and strong wind. The channel markers were very visible, and given the huge reefs outside the marked channel, and the whirlpools of the outgoing tides, it was apparent why there were so many warnings about navigating this channel.
We have about six miles to travel north, and get there just in time for the weather to clear. This is SE AK, it is supposed to rain all day, every day, not just for an hour in the morning. Oh well, I will gladly take the sunshine.
As we bob around in the channel, I glass to the west and spot a nice bear on the beach. He is standing on a narrow strip of beach grass. The coast line is guarded by a very rocky reef, making it very hard to find a way to get anywhere near this bear. I look at the nautical charts and see their exists a small gap in the reef where we might be able to get through and if need be, wait out the tides until it fills later in the day, giving us enough water to get back out to the channel.
Troy gives me the "thumbs up." After all, we have an extra prop, a shear pin, and a wrench to replace it if we lose one on the rocks. I head toward the gap. As we get within about 100 yards of the reef, we are now about 600 yards from the bear. The wind is not favorable from here, but upon getting over the rocks, I will go hard west, taking us more down wind, and hiding behind a small point of rocks for our stalk.
As I am checking the chart and carefully navigating, Troy turns and tells me the bear took the three steps necessary to get back into the forest. Not sure what spooked him. May have been us, but we were still pretty far off. He may have just decided it was time to head in for the morning nap.
Oh well, so far, finding bears is not the problem, so no need to continue risking the sanctity of our vessel. I retreat out to the deeper channel.
Now what? Troy has been salivating upon hearing of the steelhead run up Irish Creek. We are only a mile from the mouth of the creek as morning takes hold, so we head over that way as close as we can get, without tearing up the boat.
I am not too hep on trout fishing, but given the loads of gear Troy has brought with for steelhead fishing, I am easily talked into the idea of a low-tide crossing of a small spit separating this island from the mainland where we can then go upstream the two miles to where Cole flew us over the fish ladder on Irish Creek. This looked like a pretty long hike to me, but Troy thought it would be a short stroll. Given how much gear he was carrying, he obviously didn't plan on a long hike.
We beach the boat and head toward the small gap, in hopes that we can cross at low tide. I am not convinced this is a good idea. Troy assures me we will be back here before the incoming tide gets any further up than what it is where we cross now, as the tide is going out. We plan on having five hours to chase steelhead.
What looks like a short jaunt from the air, or a quick hike on a map, becomes some serious travel. The ground is flat, but the tide flats are a sinking mess. As we get further away from the coast, the river becomes a real river, and not a tide flat. Traversing up the river is challenging, but interesting. We are in a walled corridor or old growth Sitka Spruce and some sort of Red Cedar. Moss grows on everything and the ferns are emerging and thankfully the Devil's Clubs are not yet in their mid-summer thickness.
It takes an hour and a half to get to the fish ladder. We have yet to observe a fish. Troy assures me they are here.
He rigs up some sort of mess that resembles a Muskie plug that I would troll in my home waters of Northern Minnesota. The rod, if you want to call it that, could serve as a pole vault. And he gives me a salt water fly reel that looks like it could be home to gerbil treadmill. He expects me to cast this thing among all these over hanging limbs. If I do hook something, I am pretty sure I can just heave it out of the water like those tuna fisherman of old.
I thrash the water until my arm is tired. The methodic rhythm has me almost asleep when a big silver flash emerges from the deep tanic acid stained waters. My heart quickens as I imagine fighting this big steelhead in a rapid pool the size of my garage. Excitement overtakes me and I set the hook too soon. Damn it, as much as I complained about this fishing expedition, I really wanted to hook that thing.
I sit on the bank as Troy walks around me to fish immediately above me at the base of the fish ladder. He is quickly shouting to get the cameras rolling. His rod is bent and I see line going out quickly. He starts pulling hard and quickly there is splashing in the back eddy at his feet. Whether he is kicking his boot in the water, or actually has a fish, I cannot verify from below, but his excitement exceeds anything in my two years of filming with him. I will give him the benefit of the doubt.
The fishing continues for an hour more when I remind Troy that tides will not wait for him to finally land a steelhead. Grudgingly, he agrees that it would not be good to spend the night separated from our boat.
We head back toward the island where we have beached the boat. It now returns to normal SE AK weather and is raining very hard. Within an hour we are back to the crossing of this tide gap. We have misread the tides to our benefit, and the gap is almost dry, making crossing to the island a non-issue. Glad we misread things to our benefit.
Upon reaching the boat, we see that it is way out on the tide flat. Do we heave and pull to get it off the flat, or wait for two hours in the rain, while the tide comes back in? Unanimous vote is to take cover from the rain and let the tides do the heavy lifting for us.
We are now loaded and moving back away from the rocky flats and back towards the channel. Knowing that we still have a lot of daylight, we move further north from the cabin. In the rain, we find another bear feeding on a small grass spot on the west shore.
With a SW wind, we move NE of the bear and beach the boat in one deep little pocket. A few short minutes and we will cover the 300 yards where the bear was feeding, just around the point. We sneak as close as we can, identifying the big dead tree that marked the location of the bear's last spot. The favorable wind has us within 100 yards.
We look - nothing. He cannot be far off. We wait downwind. Still nothing. We move slightly away from the beach, hidden by rocks and keep our eye on the shoreline. Quiet. We wait for a half hour in the soaking rain, yet no sign of the bear. Where the bear went, I have no idea. He must have moved off as we motored around the point to beach the boat.
With time growing late and the dicey nature of the narrows, we decided to head back in the rain. No sense in wearing ourselves out the first day. We will get the stove going in the cabin, dry out any clothes, cook a warm dinner, and give it hell in the morning.
An hour later and we are at the cabin. We glass the big flats near the cabin, but see nothing. Time to change the fuel filter and get the fire going.
The filter part goes great, even for a guy with my limited mechanical skills. When I came in and opened the stove to light it, I was dumbfounded. Not sure if any of you have operated a heating oil stove, but it requires fuel to be spread over small plate, or element, then the fuel ignited. It then burns very hot and efficiently.
Well, some knotheads didn't have any fuel, or didn't know how to read the instructions above the stove, so they had filled it with charcoal and made it a charcoal stove. Now the entire heat plate was filled with about four inches of charcoal and soot. No way any diesel fuel will penetrate all of that and be ignitable.
I am too tired to mess with it any more. I tell Troy I will fix it in the morning. We eat a cold meal, climb into the sleeping bags, and set the alarm. This has been a long first day.
The gap we are going to wade as the tide is going out, with plans to come back across before the tide comes back up.
I am not convinced of Troy's plan. Steelhead fever appears to be impairing his judgment.
Whew, made it across the gap. Should be no problem on the way back.
Troy being frustrated by the steelhead.
Well, looks like we made it back in plenty of time before the tide came back in. Better safe than sorry.
