PEAX Equipment

The VLD in .243?

I have had good results with the 95gr. berger hunting vld in a 240 weatherby mag. I had the rifle built specifically for them with a 1 in 8 twist. I have shot antelope, mule deer out to 200 yards with them and whitetails out to 750 yards. The results have always been impressive. The biggest problem with using them in a factory rifle is the twist rates of factory barrels and magazine box length.
 
I've shot nothing but Berger 180's from my 7STW. I'll try the new LR Accubond when they come out but their bc's are "generous". No Elk yet but Antelope don't take a step at 350 yards. Thru and thru.
 
I've had good luck with the 140 Bergers in my 6.5 and 210's in my .30 cal. No elk but the deer and antelope usually fall immediately especially with the 210's. Good bullets IMO.
 
Like I said, I used a 190 Berger in my RUM last season, a mistake I won't repeat. We''ll see about the Bergers in the .243. Maybe they would work better in a smaller cartridge at lower velocity. I'm waiting for the Accubond LRs for my RUM. "Generous" BCs or not, a better bullet than the Berger for sure. I know that the reported BC of .588 for the original 200 grain Accubond wasn't generous. mtmuley
 
I've shot nothing but Berger 180's from my 7STW. I'll try the new LR Accubond when they come out but their bc's are "generous". No Elk yet but Antelope don't take a step at 350 yards. Thru and thru.

Did you happen to chrono the 180's?
 
nope. I zeroed at 200, verified drops at 400 and 600, and ended up at just over 3,000 in my ballistics prog.
 
Braver than me. I chrony my loads. Then I verify on paper from 100 to 800 yards, (as far as I have room) then tweak my Sierra Infinity till it matches, and print a chart. Why a 200 yard zero withy that STW? mtmuley
 
When I started with the rifle last year lots of guys were saying a 200 yards zero was the way to go if you were going to shoot out to 800+ so that's what I did. I'm a target bow guy, the rifle thing is pretty new to me.
Regarding the chrono, I'm a believer in shooting in my marks. Been doing it with my bow for 40 years. So far, I haven't seen a drastic need for a chrono. I shoot my zero, verify at distance then tweak the software to match my actual results. It's on at 200, 400 and 600 and last year 400 was my limit.
At some point though, I may get one. My 4 shot 200 yard groups (2 and 2) end up with 3 at 1/2 minute and all 4 at 1 minute so something is causing the 1 to deviate. Don't know if it's me or the load, I'm guessing a chrono might help find out.
 
My 4 shot 200 yard groups (2 and 2) end up with 3 at 1/2 minute and all 4 at 1 minute so something is causing the 1 to deviate. Don't know if it's me or the load, I'm guessing a chrono might help find out.

If you have horz spread it more than likely is either you, the wind or other weather elements. If it is vertical spread it is likely ammo vel. difference.

I've shot over chronograph a since they first came out and most of them lying damn things should be shot. I send mine in every 2 yrs to get re calibrated and still the final say is field verifying. If you think your chrony is accurate, find 2 other chrony's and set them up back to back to back and shoot thru them :)

Shoot 4 or 5 rds at 4,6 or 800 yds and see what your results are for moa - that is much more relevant than a 1 or 200 yd result.
 
Whether you think they lie or not, a chronograph is a handy tool. If you handload, you shouldn't be without one. mtmuley
 
Whether you think they lie or not, a chronograph is a handy tool. If you handload, you shouldn't be without one. mtmuley

Not saying they are not helpful, I'm saying you can not rely solely on their velocities as 100% true. There are so many things that can lead to their read outs.

Read the fine print on any light sensor chronograph - anyone know what % [+ or-] is factory acceptable?
 
Cowboy,

My chrono is pretty consistent. What brand did you use?

I have found that light conditions can throw off the readings. Never needed a recalibration though. Sometimes I fire a "control" load just to make sure
 
Cowboy,
My chrono is pretty consistent. What brand did you use?
I have found that light conditions can throw off the readings. Never needed a recalibration though. Sometimes I fire a "control" load just to make sure


My opinion is the brand of chrony is irrevalent, I've shot over a half dozen different brands and models. Some are better than others. The limiting factor of light senseing chrono's is just that - They are light sensitive.
I never thought the chrono's that I've owned had any problems either because "it was always pretty consistant" until I tested it back-to back-to back with 2 other brands of chrono's. Mine was "always consitant" 30 fps slower. The first time I sent mine in, the factory tech said he tested it and it was working fine. I told him what it had been compared to and he said he'd get back to me - come to find out mine did read low BUT it was within factory tolerances, which were + or - 3%.

What that means is if you shoot through a light sensor chrony at 3000 fps, the factory is saying any reading between 2910 and 3090 is acceptable. I'm sure different manufactures hold their tolerances better than others, but the 3% variance is supposedly an industry standard.

Now for many many years that worked fine for me. I used a chrono for mainly checking my reloads for extreme spread (ES) and standard deviation (SD). With the advancement of components, rifles and scopes what used to be a long shot is now been increased by 3-5 fold by some people.

If you really want to see the accuracy of a light sensing chrono - shoot through it indoors.

I've built boxes to cover my chrono's, I've modified plastic barrels with both ends cut out to put my chrony into while testing - always trying to make sure I get the most consistant, accurate data I can and trying to minimize the light variance.

I'm sure not knocking chronies. I've owned and used them for more years than most of the guys age is on this forum. I will be using mine tomorrow if this damn wind shuts down to something reasonable. All I'm saying is use that data with a grain of salt and ALWAYS field shoot/verify anything your chrono tells you. I get exremely frustrated at times when readings just don't make sense. And sense to me is when I get a variance of whatever to whatever fps on my reloads because a dang cloud just covered the sun.

PS: I have just ordered one of the new sound sensing type chrony's that are recently becoming available. Kind of anxious to see what new technology has come up with, and I'm hoping to do away with the light sensitive problem/accuracy.
 
I feel comfortable with my chronograph. I check my favorite hunting load in my go-to rifle for zero every year before hunting over the chrono, and so far, no erratic results with the same load for over 10 years. I do realize checking in the field is a VERY good idea, hence why I shoot 100 to 800 yards to verify. Using the velocities my chrono produces and then plugging them in to my Sierra verifies the readings are not way out of bounds. Shooting is then a triple check. Nothing is foolproof, especially with handloads. mtmuley
 
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