Redmt
Well-known member
He said expensive not TOO expensive. I agree they are expensive compared to other brands.
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Yeah. Maybe. Tarriffs hit them hard also. Funny how guys complain about the nuts and bolts while spending a shitload on other gear. mtmuleyHe said expensive not TOO expensive. I agree they are expensive compared to other brands.
Yeah, I agree. I have thousands in my #1 but I try to trim corners anywhere else I can..Yeah. Maybe. Tarriffs hit them hard also. Funny how guys complain about the nuts and bolts while spending a shitload on other gear. mtmuley
A carbon savage I think is around 1500 bucks now. That’s the main reason I don’t have a new rifle is what I want would cost me about 5k to put together and the one I currently have has killed everything I’ve pointed it at.Yeah. Maybe. Tarriffs hit them hard also. Funny how guys complain about the nuts and bolts while spending a shitload on other gear. mtmuley
Seekins has been throwing some support at great things. If I was rifle shopping it would be on my short list and they make a phenomenal gunI get it. I’ve shot Hammers for a minute. I love them and Steve is awesome. I love supporting “locals.” It’s tough paying over double. A sample pack of 15 of the bullet I want to try is $48. They’re the most highly engineered and precisely built bullets on the market.
I bought a Seekins to support local, and not another Tikka. Also, my goal has been to consolidate two nice rifles into one great rifle. I’ve worked hard and am wise with my money.
I really want to get into shooting steel. I didn’t throw out any “cheapy” ideas. Berger and Nosler aren’t entry level. I really want one bullet for NRL style shooting and hunting if game. What are your ideas?
YesBrass? I usually buy a couple boxes of Hornady Whitetail or the like for break and then use them for reloading and load development. Is it worth buying Peterson, ADG, Starline, Lapua, or whatever?
I sort my brass into manufacturers. You will find different rifles like different brass better than others. One of my 6.5's absolutely will not eject nickel plated. After you find a load, my humble opinion is that it's not that critical which brand brass makes any difference for my shooting parameters. Some brass lasts longer than others but your not dealing with brass that is $5.00 each. Reload, shoot and repeat until the brass goes FUBAR then replace.What brass would people recommend?
I’m liking ADG a lot. Very uniform, clean flash holes, and primer pockets.What brass would people recommend?
I forgot he was after laser precision?I’m liking ADG a lot. Very uniform, clean flash holes, and primer pockets.
I’m not into NRL or competitive shooting but I like accurate ammo and crappy brass does effect accuracy.
I’m not a brass snob but if I were making laser accurate loads like your wanting, I’d go with all the same good quality brass. It ain’t cheap though.
I suggest RP for everything. Never lets me down.What brass would people recommend?
FIFY. I’ll even posit that right between AA4350 to 4831 burn rate is where you belong. Because your new gun will likely bughole 140gr mono just like its predecessors in the 6.8 and 7mm iterations.What’s your secret sauce? The dream would be one round for big game and target steel.
I’m starting to ponder reloading recipes. I have 4831sc, 4350, Varget, and RL 23. I have large rifle and magnum primers. I don’t have any bullets yet. I [we all] love Hammers, but they’re expensive. I would consider Berger or Nosler also. Maybe [probably will go with] Barnes. Hornady Eld-X are okay…