OhHeyThereBen
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So I should probably start at the lower end and jump up by one grain?
Load Testing/Bullet Questions
- Thread starter OhHeyThereBen
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So I should probably start at the lower end and jump up by one grain?
OhHeyThereBen
Active member
I went to the indoor rifle range and shot out of a lead sled. They closed down the range before I could finish 4/5 5 shot groups, but I did end up with a 1.35" 4 shot group at a 58gr load of H4350 and a 165gr SST. I'm thinking that this is pretty decent from a model 70 but am unsure exactly what to expect out of the rifle. I've now loaded up 57.7, 58.0, 58.6, and 58.6 grain loads and will shoot them for groups.
If any of you have opinions about the accuracy that my rifle might produce or disagreements with the way that I'm working up my secondary loads please let me know!
If any of you have opinions about the accuracy that my rifle might produce or disagreements with the way that I'm working up my secondary loads please let me know!
Drop down to 57 grains and see what you get. I'm using that load in a pre-64 Model 70 and getting around .5 - .75 inch groups. YOu don't need to max out on velocity with that bullet/cartridge combo really. I'm pushing 2850 FPS or so with mine.
Don Fischer
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You guy's are right. Let me rephrase that. Work up your premium bullet load but for practice work up cup and core loads, lot less expensive.
Done this. mtmuley
OhHeyThereBen
Active member
It seemed like my gun really hated the 57 grain loading. It shot like 2.5 inches. The 58 shot the best (only a 4 shot group) as well as the 53 grain (1.4" 5 shot group).
El Jason
Well-known member
I would ditch the lead sled.
Are you cleaning during this process? If so are your shooting a couple hours of foulers?
Are you cleaning during this process? If so are your shooting a couple hours of foulers?
OhHeyThereBen
Active member
I did clean before the shooting but also fired 10 fouling shots before starting the groups. I fired round-robin style in order to avoid any changes between groups.
I'll ditch the lead sled next time for sure. I'm assuming that it will change the way the gun shoots, correct? I'm probably never going to try to shoot 40 rounds in one session again... It would've destroyed my shoulder. I just went a bit overboard because I was excited about finally getting to reload.
cahunter805
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10 fouling shots is a lot. 2-3 is usually enough.
I would recommend having the rifle bedded with pillars and have the trigger reworked. M70 triggers can be Tuned amazing.
I would recommend having the rifle bedded with pillars and have the trigger reworked. M70 triggers can be Tuned amazing.
Brian in Montana
Well-known member
Are you saying, for example, that all else being equal 45 grains of H4350 will produce about the same MV as 46 grains of IMR4350?
OhHeyThereBen
Active member
The 10 "fouling" shots were more so just having my buddy who hasn't shot a gun fling some lead. It wasn't a scientific process or anything.
I already tuned my own trigger. Not sure what it's pulling but it sure isn't much. I'm not worried about pillar bedding and stuff. It's a hunting rifle. In all honesty, 1.3 inches is more than enough for what I need (300 yards max) but since I'm reloading it'll be fun to try to squeeze that down a bit. Maybe someday I'll get a nice stock, but the walnut looks excellent!
OhHeyThereBen
Active member
Judging by this it's not quite that, but I've never loaded with IMR 4350 or anything. Maybe 3/4 grain difference according to the Nosler data. But close!
https://load-data.nosler.com/load-data/30-06-springfield/
OhHeyThereBen
Active member
I bought brand new Winchester brass so this isn't necessarily a question for my gun. However, I'm starting to work up loads for my dad and brothers' '06s and am wondering what you all think about case capacity?
I sorted my brass and gave my dad and one brother nickel plated Winchester brass that I found at a shooting range and my other brother got Federal because I ran out of Winchester. While loading the exact same loads (.3 grain increments starting at 56.7) I noticed that at the 57.6 grain loading, the Federal load was a bit "crunchy" when loading, which I didn't experience with my own Winchester brass until 58.5 grains. I'm guessing that this could change the pressures involved in the Federal brass, but if I'm still a full grain below the Hornady max load (58.5) I'm thinking it will be ok. Anyone have any insight on this?
I weighed the two different brasses and the Federal is substantially heavier. My guess is that the case capacity is smaller because the walls are thicker. Is this something to worry about at less-than-maximum loads?
Additionally, do you guys have opinions on nickel plated vs regular brass? I think I found a steal on once-fired nickel plated ($8 for 50), but really have no idea why it would be better or worse than regular brass. Opinions?
I sorted my brass and gave my dad and one brother nickel plated Winchester brass that I found at a shooting range and my other brother got Federal because I ran out of Winchester. While loading the exact same loads (.3 grain increments starting at 56.7) I noticed that at the 57.6 grain loading, the Federal load was a bit "crunchy" when loading, which I didn't experience with my own Winchester brass until 58.5 grains. I'm guessing that this could change the pressures involved in the Federal brass, but if I'm still a full grain below the Hornady max load (58.5) I'm thinking it will be ok. Anyone have any insight on this?
I weighed the two different brasses and the Federal is substantially heavier. My guess is that the case capacity is smaller because the walls are thicker. Is this something to worry about at less-than-maximum loads?
Additionally, do you guys have opinions on nickel plated vs regular brass? I think I found a steal on once-fired nickel plated ($8 for 50), but really have no idea why it would be better or worse than regular brass. Opinions?
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BuzzH
Well-known member
The bottom line is that everything CAN change things, brass, primers, bullets, bullet weight, seating depth, case capacity, and on and on and on.
Its best when you change components that you start a bit below max charges and work up.
As to the specifics, yes brass brands and type can change things. I have a Winchester 22-250 that hated nickel brass...but any other brass, rem., WW, or federal changed essentially nothing. I used every brand mixed together and there was no difference, all would shoot way under 1 inch groups.
I got some nickel brass on a good deal for my nephews 7-08 and it likes it just fine. I've used WW and Rem in his rifle, they shoot the same as the nickel brass.
The thing to do, IMO, is once you find a load the rifle likes, just stick with those components if you can. I typically don't switch up anything, I buy everything in bulk...brass, bullets, primers, powder, etc. once I have my chit dialed in. Probably a bit OCD, but I don't like surprises when I'm handloading...and if I change up a major component, I'm at the range with a chronograph making sure all is right with the world.
Its best when you change components that you start a bit below max charges and work up.
As to the specifics, yes brass brands and type can change things. I have a Winchester 22-250 that hated nickel brass...but any other brass, rem., WW, or federal changed essentially nothing. I used every brand mixed together and there was no difference, all would shoot way under 1 inch groups.
I got some nickel brass on a good deal for my nephews 7-08 and it likes it just fine. I've used WW and Rem in his rifle, they shoot the same as the nickel brass.
The thing to do, IMO, is once you find a load the rifle likes, just stick with those components if you can. I typically don't switch up anything, I buy everything in bulk...brass, bullets, primers, powder, etc. once I have my chit dialed in. Probably a bit OCD, but I don't like surprises when I'm handloading...and if I change up a major component, I'm at the range with a chronograph making sure all is right with the world.
375H&H
Well-known member
OhHeyThereBen
Active member
Based on my internet searches it just limits corrosion and can be a bit slicker when chambering and such. There could be others, but this is what I've gathered. I mostly just like it because it looks cool.
BuzzH
Well-known member
I think the "looks cool" is what people like about it the most...
375H&H
Well-known member
I think you are right.
El Jason
Well-known member
I think the "looks cool" is what people like about it the most...
Ooooh, sexxxxy!
OhHeyThereBen
Active member
x2
I like the blue tips better than my Hornady red ones as well. I think Nosler makes white ones, right? That would be sweet looking as well. I think I'll base my loads purely on looks from now on.
