Matching powder to bullet

[Cammy]

Rookie here that is grappling with simplifying the reloading process without falling into a rabbit hole so be patient.

I found a bullet that I like and the bullet manufacturer has published data for the powder behind the bullet. The same powder, albeit different load volumes, crosses to another caliber I wish to load with the same bullet. Is it really that simple? Can I really just buy one bullet, one powder, one primer type and used published load data to create ammo? I don't need to spend thousands on micrometers, latest press equipment, turrets and scales to produce safe, accurate and repeatable ammunition?

Heavily sarcastic in some respects but if you read through the sarcasm, the basic question remains. Is reloading as simple as start with a caliber of your choice, select a bullet weight and bullet manufacturer, use said bullet manufacturer's data to select a powder and start loading at the low end of the data?

 

[Caseknife]

In a nutshell, yes, but......every rifle is different and to get an accurate load in your rifle, may have to experiment with many different combinations.

 

[Gravelyctry]

Yep - it's really that simple. You'll need a few basic tools to make sure you're weighing the powder consistently/accurately, and also being able to measure your loaded rounds to ensure they're to specs as noted in your reloading manual. Those measuring tools can also help you when something doesn't go right to figure out what went wrong in your process.

But yes, reloading is not that hard to do, and it is a rabbit hole that some guys go down. You can chase accuracy if you want, but you can make perfectly safe, consistent, accurate rounds without too much trouble or investment.

 

[Wind Gypsy]

Yes, it can be that simple. Easier yet to get good results is seeing what powders are generally selected with high frequency by people who know what good is.

 

[Cammy]

It would seem that accuracy and speed are the largest rabbit hole highways that most run down. I am not chasing the sub-MOA at 1000 yards nor am I concerned with how fast a round travels. Every dead animal I have ever laid hands on did not come with a sticker showing the ballistics info of the bullet that hit it.

I am the guy that only wants the consistency that comes with accurate measurements of powder and correct methodology to produce effective and safe ammo. Just need simple and concise.

 

[cahunter805]

Like others have stated it can be that simple.

What bullet, cartridges and powder are you considering?

 

[brockel]

It can be that simple though not optimized. Typically you can get away with it with cases that have similar capacities.

 

[Cammy]

Hornady CX 130 grain. IMR-4350. 270 Win and 270 WSM.

 

[Wind Gypsy]

Hornady CX 130 grain. IMR-4350. 270 Win and 270 WSM.

Sure, that should be a fine candidate. My gut was that a 4831'ish burn speed might be a more ideal crossover but the hodgdon data looks good for that application with IMR 4350.

 

[Sheltowee]

Is reloading as simple as start with a caliber of your choice, select a bullet weight and bullet manufacturer, use said bullet manufacturer's data to select a powder and start loading at the low end of the data?

If you're just getting started yes, that's pretty much it. You can get perfectly serviceable loads for more or less everything from .223 to .338WinMag using only Varget, H4350 and H4831sc.

When you want to get more nerdy with it and squeeze out that last 10% of performance and consistency, you will want to start taking into account case fill. All else being equal, you will generally get more consistent velocities (and therefore accuracy) by using a powder charge that fills nearly all of the available case capacity. That being said, I've had plenty fine SDs from loads that I can hear the powder slopping around inside the case like sand inside of an hourglass.

I also tend to go for temp stable powders like the Hodgdon Extreme line. You can toy with hotrodding if you want to emphasize speed by loading a double base powder like the VV500-range or some of the RLs.

 

[kiwi hunter]

Yes, I now only use a Lee whackamole in 22hr and a 222 rem.
H4350 is the go to powder in both 270 chambering.
I used to have a 100 mtrs range outside my cottage, in the cottage I spend hours tinkering, gowing outside and blasting down range then back inside to more tinkering etc.
Now I select a projectile and if it's shoots well that's the end.

 

[brockel]

Get yourself some varget, h4350, and h1000 and you can almost cover everything rifle

 

[gle3105]

Cammy, Many reasons to reload. Understandably being a hunter repetitive accuracy is paramount.
Guessing you have a press , dies and such.
IMO , to produce at a minimal expense to produce a good load I’d have for a start:
-Good powder scale.
-Digital caliper. ( I have Mitutoyo but have found a less expensive “General” brand amazingly accurate)
-Hornady Lock n Load coal for your caliber. Headspace inserts are handy too.
Rabbit hole you say?
The quest for accuracy can be just that. But an enjoyable one.

 

[MattShults_11]

Hornady CX 130 grain. IMR-4350. 270 Win and 270 WSM.

I personally use the Hornady ELDX bullet for my 270 win

 

[Cammy]

I personally use the Hornady ELDX bullet for my 270 win

I like the mono copper bullets having used them now for several years. Previously used Barnes Vortex ammo and really liked it but picked up some of the hornady outfitter ammo last year and am impressed. Dropped to a 130 grain bullet when I switched.

 

[grizzly63]

Welcome to the Rabbit hole. There are worse hobbies.

 

[3006Sprng]

Yeah it’s that simple. I’m pretty bad for trying new bullets every hunting season lol. I don’t know if there is others like me.

 

[Salmonchaser]

It can be that simple and with the correct choice you can cover several cartridges with one powder.
During the covid shortages it seemed like the only powder I could re-supply in my area was H4350. I shoot once a week, don’t play golf, ended up with perfectly serviceable loads in everything from .22-250 to 416 Rigby. I’d have to do an inventory but believe I have 8 different powders on hand for optimal loads in specific rifles but I’ve been loading for 60 years.

 

[TX Trophy Hunter]

Generally speaking, slower burning powders give good performance with heavy for caliber bullets in long barrels. Fast burning powders give better performance with light for caliber bullets and can do better than slow powders in short barrels. Your manual might have a recommended powder for a given bullet. You can google a list of powder burn rates to get an idea of how the powders in your manual compare to each other. The way that I develop a new load is to use the manual’s suggested overall length and do a ladder test with the powder that I think will work well. To do that load one round at or near the minimum charge and one each at 0.3 grain increasing increments until you get near the max charge. At the range, fire the first round(lowest powder charge), ideally through a chronograph, and mark it on the target. Record the velocity if you have a chronograph. Wait for your barrel to completely cool then fire the next lowest powder charge. Check every case for signs of pressure and stop if you find any. I usually get 3 or 4 rounds that group near each other and have similar velocity, then velocity will suddenly spike at the next charge. You might get several of those nodes. I then choose the node that meets my goals of accuracy, velocity, and felt recoil. I average the powder charge for those rounds and load 5 at that average powder charge. I shoot them at my maximum hunting range and if accuracy is acceptable to me then I keep that load.