Gun Safes

I have the cannon super wide body 80 gun and it's basically a glorified sheetrock box. It would keep your local amateur thief out and your kids but I'm positive with a cordless grinder and a prybar I could break into it in about 5 minutes. The craftsmanship looks like some 10 year old's built it for science project.

Also like to note that being on the local fire department i can tell you that most safes don't hold up to a full-on structure fire. Even the safes that did hold up to the fires the guns in them are all toast, the only ones that survive are the guns in socks
 
I have the cannon super wide body 80 gun and it's basically a glorified sheetrock box. It would keep your local amateur thief out and your kids but I'm positive with a cordless grinder and a prybar I could break into it in about 5 minutes. The craftsmanship looks like some 10 year old's built it for science project.

Also like to note that being on the local fire department i can tell you that most safes don't hold up to a full-on structure fire. Even the safes that did hold up to the fires the guns in them are all toast, the only ones that survive are the guns in socks
What type of sock we talking here?

Just those cloth cheap gun sleeves?


I ask because that could be pretty cheap added protection on the two guns I would actually miss....
 
Gonna be giving away a Steelhead safe in our FT+ August sweepstakes.

 
Aside from winning a safe, the advice already given is sound. Don't discount safes sold by Lowes and Home Depot, you can sometimes get pretty good bang for the buck and in some cases free delivery. Just research models sold by whoever. I have 2 safes and need a third, bought one from Lowes, first one they tried to deliver had a bent handle and the driver noted it and took care of getting a new one reordered, awesome service. The second one I got from Sportsmans and it was nice as well.
 
When I was looking to buy a safe, I talked to a security company. The guy explained fire ratings to me, most of which I've forgotten. I do recall him saying most safes aren't going to leave your contents in any useable condition during a full house blaze. He did say two things that stuck with me. First, he recommended placing the safe along an exterior wall where firefighters can douse the wall and cool the temperature vs what an interior wall experiences during a house fire. Second, he recommended bolting the safe to the floor regardless of where you place it. Not so much from a security standpoint as a safety precaution. He said 1/3 the weight of a safe is in the door. It's not that hard to tip over a safe by hanging on the door when it's open (think kid playing around). Yes, odds are quite low but result would be terrible.

I have an older Canon. It's fine for my needs but as others have said - doesn't hold what it says it should.
 
What type of sock we talking here?

Just those cloth cheap gun sleeves?


I ask because that could be pretty cheap added protection on the two guns I would actually miss....
I guess i have never take the time to ask the homeowner for type of socks but in my search online those are about the only ones available minus the silicone based one that intended to absorb moisture. I shouldn't say all the guns without socks were complete toast, but they have had a lot of damage compared to ones in sock. This can also very greatly on how hot the fire was. Also, most people don't realize they can & will rust very fast when water ends up getting inside them during the process of the FD putting thousands of gallons of water onto the blaze. For the people that put important documents in their safe highly reccomend these:
 
I really like the Steelhead safes. I have a Liberty deluxe series at home. The Steelhead are a huge upgrade. They are built differently, designed differently, and it is apparent immediately. The interior layout is better and gets more utilization of the space. Doors and hinges are the really stout.
 
Did you pick a safe yet? I have to tell you, I'm leaning toward a Liberty based on price / options/ size for the money. I wanted to look at Steelhead, but way over priced when I can get a Liberty for half the price and it's bigger.
 
What type of sock we talking here?

Just those cloth cheap gun sleeves?


I ask because that could be pretty cheap added protection on the two guns I would actually miss....
I was typing the exact same question when I saw that you had beat me to it.
 
Whatever you do don’t get one with electronic lock only.
I've a Liberty E-lock for over a decade w/ no problems, but I get the opinion. I do change the batt before actually needing to & keep a Golden Rod dehumidifier stick charged. Silicone sleeves for a few shottys...
 
How do you open it if the electronics die? Neighbor had that happen once.
I guess I've never really thought about it that way. The keypads are easily replaced externally without opening the door or calling a locksmith, but an internal electronic failure could be catastrophic I suppose. Mine are double doors side by side, so probably a non issue for me.

I've had a few conversations with the guys that moved my safes and they tell me it's not difficult to get into any electronic safe as long as the internal glass break device is intact.

"A lock only keeps honest people out.”​

 
How do you open it if the electronics die? Neighbor had that happen once.
I have a useless small but very heavy office closet safe with a defective combo tumbler...need an expensive boat anchor?
 
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A different perspective....
I bought mine 30 years ago and it served me well.
I bought it at Sams club for about $200.
Yes I know....cheap, thin metal, etc.

My goal was to retard theft by having a cheap safe bolted to the wall. If a drug addict breaks into the house, he is typically going to steal whatever he can grab quickly so I simply wanted a cheap safe so a quick grab is unlikely. Yes I know you can cut through those cheap safes like butter, but most drug addicts are prepared with metal cutting tools.

We do have a Ring security system and the alarm does go off and I get a text if anyone opens the closet door (contact sensor and motion detector sensor) where the gun safe is bolted to the wall. So I would know about an attempted theft in less than a minute. Plus in our Alaska neighborhood thefts are rare and a risk of getting shot.
 
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