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Gros Ventre ewe bighorn hide

Bluffgruff

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2019
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1,305
Location
Colorado
After being generally disappointed with my recent hide tanning experiences, I decided to try prepping a flat skin on my own. My test piece is this ewe from my hunt with @mulecreek last September.

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I bought a relatively inexpensive two-handed, double-edged fleshing knife from Weibe, bought a two foot long piece of 6" PVC, and screwed that to a 2x4 long enough to create the angle I wanted to work at from a seated position, and thawed my sheep skin.

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A 300 win mag puts a big hole in a 150lb critter at 40 yards, so I worked around that. I may have accidentally made a couple more holes to add to the ones I made skinning her on the side of the mountain.

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After fleshing, I salted with about 4lbs of table salt, because its $0.65/lb, and more is better.

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The drip is complicated in warm weather, but in the cool of the Colorado spring, no bugs found the situation to their liking.

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I let it drip overnight, shook the loose salt off, resalted, and let it drip until it didn't drip anymore.

After that. I hung it flesh side out over a sawhorse in my garage until it was almost dried hard, and folded it up to dry the rest of the way in the 15% humidity we were having at the time.

I bagged it in a clear plastic bag, stuffed it into a box, and took it to the PO to ship to Moyle.

The USPS counter worker said it smelled like oil, and I had to explain exactly what it was, that it wouldn't rot, and that sheep just smell like that, and she really gave me a stare while she measured my box and completed the transaction.

A couple months later, in record time compared to the other services I have used, I have my tanned sheep hide, and it looks great, is very soft, and I'm excited to do more hides myself in the future!

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I also did a euro mount of the head, after popping the horns off after 2 days in the sun following a time in the freezer.

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I'll get pictures of the euro in here at some point.
 
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How much did it cost to have the hide tanned? And shipping costs? Id like to do this with my next deer hide if its reasonable.
 
Great work !!
You'll find when possible - careful skinning means a lot less fleshing, lol.
We do all our hides and furs that get tanned. Takes some time but gets faster with experience.
For flat hides we don't use a beam, just lay it out and and get the meat and fat off. No need to scrape it down all over.

Moyle does good work, may need to air out but that is expected after tanning.
Here is the link to their price list: https://moyle.net/prices
They tan intact fur dressing on animals listed on the taxidermy tan page too.
They have done 2 bison hides and moose for us and they are nice, many furs as well.

There are a few other good tanneries out there, just haven't used them. Maybe someone will chime in.

Enjoy your ewe hide Bluffgruff and congrats on the take !
The fine stock salt at feed stores works well and is cheap for a 50 lb bag.
 
They have done 2 bison hides and moose for us and they are nice, many furs as well.

Enjoy your ewe hide Bluffgruff and congrats on the take !
The fine stock salt at feed stores works well and is cheap for a 50 lb bag.

The bulk fine stock salt is definitely the way to go. $7 for 50lbs at retail price where I'm at.

Did you find the need to "score" the hide with your bison and moose? I have bison and elk hides on my plate for this year, and I saw one taxidermist recommend scoring to get better salt penetration.
 
Good point JM77.

No we did not score them. We liberally salted a few times and let it get nice and dry then just sent it in.
Pay attention to bloody spots on the hair side too, they can cause slippage of not cleaned up or salted to get the wet blood dried and mostly out. Bison hair is thick on winter hides.
 
Feed mixing salt just under $9.00 a bag here in Norcal......


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You are doing good if you get it for $7. Well done. Please tell more about the way you handled the horn sheaths and reattached them. Bondo?
 
Feed mixing salt just under $9.00 a bag here in Norcal......


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You are doing good if you get it for $7. Well done. Please tell more about the way you handled the horn sheaths and reattached them. Bondo?
You didn't quite ask for a full euro process, but horn sheaths are tied into that, so here goes:
The head was frozen for a few weeks. After that, I put it outside in a black trashbag after skinning and de-braining. Typically, this takes over a week, but I think the freezing accelerated the horn sheath decoupling, only took a couple days. Horn sheaths get filled with borax and kept in a well ventilated place away from flies. Skull got cooked for 30-45 minutes with some Dawn, to soften meat and horn sheath skin, then skull was immediately pressure washed to remove all exterior and interior soft tissue, and then covered liberally with 40 volume hair bleaching hydrogen peroxide. Skull gets washed off after 24h and then sits to dry completely. I typically spray with clear polyurethane before the next step, depends on the look you want. I use HD varithane oil based. After sheaths stop smelling, borax gets tapped out, then horn sheaths get a dollop of bondo inside and horn core gets dropped in from above until horn is at a predetermined anatomical point. Excess bondo is wiped away immediately, and I watch it until it's set enough that I don't have to worry about further dripping. Set it in a well ventilated place and give it some time to fully set. You can put a pin nail in the back to secure it, but I haven't been doing that.
 
You didn't quite ask for a full euro process, but horn sheaths are tied into that, so here goes:
The head was frozen for a few weeks. After that, I put it outside in a black trashbag after skinning and de-braining. Typically, this takes over a week, but I think the freezing accelerated the horn sheath decoupling, only took a couple days. Horn sheaths get filled with borax and kept in a well ventilated place away from flies. Skull got cooked for 30-45 minutes with some Dawn, to soften meat and horn sheath skin, then skull was immediately pressure washed to remove all exterior and interior soft tissue, and then covered liberally with 40 volume hair bleaching hydrogen peroxide. Skull gets washed off after 24h and then sits to dry completely. I typically spray with clear polyurethane before the next step, depends on the look you want. I use HD varithane oil based. After sheaths stop smelling, borax gets tapped out, then horn sheaths get a dollop of bondo inside and horn core gets dropped in from above until horn is at a predetermined anatomical point. Excess bondo is wiped away immediately, and I watch it until it's set enough that I don't have to worry about further dripping. Set it in a well ventilated place and give it some time to fully set. You can put a pin nail in the back to secure it, but I haven't been doing that.
You answered my question PERFECTLY....
 
Spouse uses a paper mache to set horns instead of bondo. Easy to mix and sets up slowly to position the horns at the right angle.
Van Dykes carries a bunch of types.
 

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