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Wall Tents 101- educate me

Bueller? Curious if anyone that has this tent has noticed a structural benefit of going 4 columns instead of 3. Obviously 4 would be better, but it may also be overkill.
 
I pulled the trigger this morning on a 12'x14' tent package from Davis Tent. It comes with one window, screen door, floor, angle kit, and stove.

I'll need to buy and cut the EMT for the frame.

I will be comfy for that November muley hunt in NV. I've secured up to 14 days of vacation to make it happen.

I've done about 6 emt builds for friends and my own that i switched to a bit thicker emt frames. My own originally had 3/4 legs and 3/4 ceiling run. The rest was 1/2. It did fine until i had some wind... the 1/2 slightly bent at the joints.

The ones I've built since are all 3/4 with 1" joints.

Best way i found to get the angles was to soap claulk example: wall to ceiling... 2" per foot drawing of the angle and have 4" cuts of emt. Best i found to cut is take the 1"pipe, a 4x4 2-3 foot length of wood. Drill 1-1/4" hole bit equally through both centered points through both angles of the wood. The two holes should result in lining up. Then take your 1" emt and run it through one set of the drilled holes. Once the point marked on the pipe was centered, secure the pipe and wood (My wife held the pipe...) and drill 1-1/4" hole through the pipe. This will create the curves that make tack welding the correct angles together where they are rounded cuts to fit the straight joint pipe for the wall length as well as the ceiling run.

Once the angles with curved cuts were made in the 1"emt, For the center joints, I simply eye balled the center joints in line with my soap chaulk and tack welded those points. The end points were simple and those I laid straight onto the welding table and lined them with the chaulk marks. I took my mallet and tapped down the edges then gave a fair weld run at necessary points with some slight grinding to cler any burrs.

I took 3 colors of duct tape and wrapped the weld points with the appropriate colors fitting the direction the 3/4" emt slide into and some color choice to wrap the welded points.

Once at camp, having color coded emt 3/4" emt matching the joint colors make it a cake walk to put together. Always the top frame built, drag the tent over the top frame then slip in and insert the legs.

I'll see about snapping a couple pics to better help understand my mess of a description. I have always used 3 framed walls for my and friends 12x14's
Actually one friend asked for a 4th set to extend outside the tent ends to have an option to frame an outside overhang / cover. Think i will do that on my own, though i dont really have a problem using long tree branch lengths that attach to the ends then tarp cover.
 
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I may have missed it in here, but can anyone give me an estimate for a 12 x 14 for your own EMT conduit?

Looks like angle kits run 150 to $200 depending on whether it's adjustable or not.

Thanks! Getting close to pulling the trigger on some canvas!
 
I believe for the 3/4" and 1" EMT purchase, it totalled approx $70-80. (?) Like T Bone, it has been a while since the last build.

The EMT works great! It is stout and fits very nice. Amazing how absurd they price internal tent frames! Flat out theft!
 
I have decided to get a 12'x12' Alaknak with the vestibule as soon as I get a chance and hopefully get a sale price. what stove should I get? would prefer a fold up or compact since I have to travel-pack and store it way more than its gonna be used, what do you guys think would be best for money?
 
Ok, so how about 10oz vs 12oz canvas? My tent maker here in Sheridan only makes 12oz, Davis tents says that 10oz is all you need. Thoughts????
 
This is one instance where lighter is better. If they can order in 10oz Sunforger that would be ideal.
 
Ok, thanks. I definitely want the sunforger. Also, wondering if the fire retardent is worth the extra cost? I do plan on having a stove but it seems like a lot of people skip this option.
 
Ok, thanks. I definitely want the sunforger. Also, wondering if the fire retardent is worth the extra cost? I do plan on having a stove but it seems like a lot of people skip this option.

I passed on that option... good, bad or indifferent - I've not had any issues though a good arrestor and good burning wood with proactive yearly examination for possible pipe cleaning - aids in good care.

edit: Found this little tidbit -
Flames and Fires
Because canvas is made from an extremely heavy-duty, plain-woven fabric, care must be taken when cooking with an open flame or burning fire. Canvas, by itself, is highly flammable, so when purchasing a canvas tent, ensure that the canvas has been treated with a flame retardant. Canvas tents are a legal requirement in some states such as California, Michigan and Minnesota and must pass flammability standards of CPAI-84.
Read more : http://www.ehow.com/about_6698251_canvas-tent-safety.html
 
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An item I don't see covered, maybe I missed it, but does anyone run pads or feet on the bottom of their internal frame poles? Are they not needed?

I am in the process of building an internal frame making my own angle sections and wondered if I should include making some pads for the frame poles to fit into.

I also haven't decided on EMT or Aluminum for the poles/rafters yet. I can see going with Aluminum could help reduce weight and making the entire kit myself I'd be under budget even with going Aluminum. My question is has anyone that's made their own internal frame used Alum pipe for the poles? Would you do it again? Do you have the specs on the aluminum pipe used - alum content and size? My angles will be steel construction.

Thanks
cmc
 
Hadn't thought of that one. Thanks T bone. I'll look for such items after I pick out pipe to go with.

Also thanks for starting the thread it's been extremely useful as I went through the research of buying a tent. I went with a 10x12 Reliable Bighorn, Marine fabric.

I needed something bigger than my bivy sack when I run solo trips, but not as big as my 5th wheel when it's the entire family. Something for me and one of my kids or me and my hunting buddy.
 
My frame kit came with rubber feet. similar to what you see on a pair of aluminum crutches. They work great.

Home depot has the rubber feet that come in a 4 pack. They are cheap.

I have a 14x17 Davis tent. It has been a great investment. I have a lot of great stories about this tent but you can believe me when I say canvas tents are awesome.
 
I lost a previous tent that was with me for many... many years due to one year - completely blanking out on airing the tent once home... mildew (my inaction) destroyed the tent... be cautious of moisture and storage...

Memories as each year all whom stayed in hunt camp would take a sharpie and note their adventures... Still in mind though something about reading and re-reading past adventures brought a genuine smile and sometimes a needed boost...

The new tent (4-5 years?) has begun with some scribbles of our adventures... The simple scribbles on the canvas building each adventure are great to read and remember some incredible events!
 
T-Bone:

I spend about 50-70 nights a year in wall tents. Here are some notes I have learned from that.

Get something in the 12'X14' range, unless you have a big crew and that big crew wants to help you put it up. Anything bigger is a serious PITA for one guy. I can do my 12'X14' in about an hour, from start to finish.

Most important point of all - Get an adjustable frame. A frame that is adjustable at every pole and every joint. You cannot adjust most tent frames, or can only adjust parts of it. When you have unlevel areas, you end up with the frame being tweaked and twisted, or shovelling to level the spots, without a fully adjustable frame. I have had wall tents from different companies, and only found one that had an adjustable frame legs at every leg, and those are the tents I am currently using.

Make sure every part of the frame can be adjusted for length, not just height. Otherwise you have a lot of slack in your canvas when it drapes over the frame. Take it from experience, if you are on a mountain at 9,500' in Nevada and the wind blows 30 mph all night, the flapping of that loose canvas will keep you awake, no matter how tired you are. Or, if you get 30" of snow in WY, that loose canvas acts like a catch trap and you will have a ton of snow saggin the canvas down between the rafters.

Get the lightest weight fabric you can. Traditional canvas is kind by the wayside with the new stuff that is out there. My tents have a fabric with SunForger. It is a marine grade fabric. Very waterproof, very light, and very durable.

Make your own stakes. Get some long spike, weld a big 1" washer at the top, and paint them pink or orange so you don't step on them as often. Good way to screw up a hunt is to step on a tent stake you did not see and roll an ankle.

Get a snap in floor. Probably my favorite part of my tents.

Only get one door. You can order with a door on each end, but that is a PITA. Hard enough to get the frame tight with the one door, let alone two. And, you lose the use of the end without the door, which usually is good for another cot or storying all your junk.

On the end without the door, make sure it has a grommet or buckle about 3' up the wall, allowing you to tie off that wall to another stake. Face that wall into the prevailing wind. When you tie off the rope to the buckle, it pulls that wall really tight and helps with wind and rain. If done right, it will be really tight when you tie it off.

Get at least a 4" sod skirt around the tent. Anyting smaller will not tuck in beneath your tent poles and you will have dust and snow blowing in underneath.

Get zipper windows on each side of the tent, with plastic windows. It can get really hot in a wall tent in September. You want some ventilation. And, in the winter, one guy might like it 100F and have the stove to the point of melting and you might like it closer to 68F. A window helps you stay comfortable if you find yourself in came with menopausal hunting buddies, all of whom I have found to be men.

My tents have been modified. As you know, Denver Tent was involved in our show the first two seasons. There was a reason for that. They make the best tent I have found. I gave them a ton of feedback after that, and much of it has been incorporated into their tents.

I get nothing for saying this and I haven't been in touch with them for two years. But, they do make the best wall tent I have ever found. And with the changes they have made, I suspect they are even better.

Maybe some others make the fully adjustable frames, but if so, I have yet to find it. These tents I have just finished their third season. They look almost brand new. Everyone who has joined us is very impressed with how well they work.

I previously had some wall tents from other companies, and I gave those away. That hurt, as I had paid a lot of money. But, their frames sucked. Good coverings are easy to find. Most tent companies have good canvas or substitute. The frames take some thought and some money to do right. That is where most tent companies go cheap.

To your exact questions, here are my answers. Like all advice, it is worth what you paid for it. :eek:



If you get Sunforger, or similar fabric, the first thing you do is set it up in your yard and wet it down. Let it dry in the sun. That tightens the weave of the fabric even tighter.

You can use a tarp over the roof, but I do not on mine. Just one more hassle. If the wind blows snow under the tarp, it never dries. I see other guys with a different opinion than I have.

As far as snow loads, I have had 24" dumps on mine and they were fine. Just make sure you had the frame and fabric tight to start with. Go inside and push the ceiling up, and the snow should slide down.



We had 60+mph winds in WY this year and it did not bother the tent. Have had similar winds in NV, MT, and other WY trips. A tight frame is paramount. Loose fabric over a frame becomes a parachute. Not what you want when the wind blows.



You won't fit it in your backpack, if that is what you are asking. You already knew that.

My 12'X14' rolls up to a roll that is 3' wide, and stands about 2' tall when rolled up. The frame is in three different bags.



Internal, no doubt. Way easier to get the fabric tightented over the frame. The frame poles can then be used to hang lanterns, build clothes lines for drying stuff, etc.

If you are interested, here is the website for Denver Tent. They call their wall tent the Colorado Tent. Sounds like a good fit for a guy from Montrose.

https://denvertent.com/common2.php?product_id=1000&root_id=1

Phone is: 1-800-869-7044

If you talk to them, tell them you read about here. Hopefully they won't say, "On Your Own What?" They are good guys. If I made a tent of that quality, I would own the market. Not sure why they don't market more and push those tents.

Good luck.
Big fin:

I took all of your advice in on the adjustable frame 12×14 with sunforger. I plan on buying a Colorado wall tent. Just stuck on the idea of whether to buy a 10.10 or 12.63 oz. canvas sunforger. I would love to know the pro's and con's of both 10.10 and 12.63. I won't be packing a tent anywhere. I'll be unloading out of the back of my truck. The 12.63 oz. is cheaper, but I thought it would be best for insulation on cold nights, and wouldn't have to use as much wood to keep it warm. Also thought that the 12.63 oz. would be more durable and last for the years to come. Would appreciate your input on the pro's and con's. Thanks!
 
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