So the chamfer and deburrer are 2 different tools? Is the primer pocket cleaner part of the hand primer tool or are they 2 different items?I use a primer pocket cleaner and case mouth chamfer and deburrer. You will want a electric caliper and eventually a case trimmer.
Just about everything is hard to get right now, id like to get the rcbs rock chucker kit but can't find any other than some shady companies on Amazon with back order for a couple months. This forum is a shining beacon of hope in the void of empty shelves.Lee dies work great for a simple setup (dies are very hard to get right now)
MidwayUSA will backorder some dies right now...might be worth locking in the dies you want or need.Just about everything is hard to get right now, id like to get the rcbs rock chucker kit but can't find any other than some shady companies on Amazon with back order for a couple months. This forum is a shining beacon of hope in the void of empty shelves.
This is the primer pocket cleaner that I use. I ended up with this after several others, it is simple and works very well.So the chamfer and deburrer are 2 different tools? Is the primer pocket cleaner part of the hand primer tool or are they 2 different items?
Case trimming come's into it when the case get's to long. Most case stretch I find come from dragging the neck back over the expanding nipple in the size die, much more stretch that from simple firing. De-burring and champhering then come's in to clean up the case mouth after trimming. Both inside and outside the case mouth needs de-burred! Not to much now, to much and your gonna start splitting case's fron the mouth back down the neck. Done right you'll end up with a small champher inside and outside the mouth and the top of the mouth will be flat, not sharp!Am I correct in that case trimming comes into play after brass has been loaded and fired enough times to elongate the case correct? Is trimming sometimes necessary with new brass?
I did as well...and it was good enough ammo to hit a popcan at a dynamite shoot at 575 yards with my 6mm Rem.I loaded ammo that met my accuracy standards and did what I needed it to do in the field for years without using either of those. So, yes IME they are luxury items.
I wasn't scared...one bit. If I hadn't found a beam powder scale for dirt cheap, I also wouldn't have been afraid to just fill 30/06 cases with IMR4831 or IMR4350 and seat a bullet on top either...measuring 55.5-56.0 grains accomplished the same thing.To each his own. No way I load ammo without both. mtmuley
LOL... do you reload by candlelight?Tell that to someone in Texas after the snowstorm that’s looking at different loads-lmao. Also, aside from rolling my own accurate ammo, the thing that intrigues me and gives the most gratifying fulfillment is that you can reload without any power source but your limbs.
Maybe all but the last. Case's that stretch need trimmed. FL size and pull the case back over the expander and the case will stretch! Chamfering tool de-burr's the inside and outside of the mouth. But you need a trimmer and a caliper to determine when to trim and to trim.The last 3 on your list are "luxury" items IMO. Definitely not needed to load ammo.
One thing I'd put on your have lists is case chamfering tool. I use a hand held one and do both inside and outside the case.
I don't need a trickler. A powder measure/dispenser is nice if you're lading with ball powder, but for the stick powders like IMR4831 don't bother. Just hand weigh your charges using a small plastic cup and spoon. The plastic, wooden or even metal tweezers are a plus.I can send you my manual RCBS 510 scale. I use a electric one and when that takes a crap I’m going to a Chargemaster. A RCBS rock chucker press will is a great press that you will never need to upgrade. Plus if you want it will install primers, albeit slow.
Powder dispenser is nice but all you need is a trickler, cut Dixie cup, and a spoon. Plus I would recommend a plastic set of tweezers. I find myself using mine all the time when I over throw by a few kernels.