Rudimentary reloading

TwistedSage

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I use a primer pocket cleaner and case mouth chamfer and deburrer. You will want a electric caliper and eventually a case trimmer.
So the chamfer and deburrer are 2 different tools? Is the primer pocket cleaner part of the hand primer tool or are they 2 different items?
 

TwistedSage

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Am I correct in that case trimming comes into play after brass has been loaded and fired enough times to elongate the case correct? Is trimming sometimes necessary with new brass?
 

TwistedSage

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Lee dies work great for a simple setup (dies are very hard to get right now)
Just about everything is hard to get right now, id like to get the rcbs rock chucker kit but can't find any other than some shady companies on Amazon with back order for a couple months. This forum is a shining beacon of hope in the void of empty shelves.
 

Mthuntr

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Just about everything is hard to get right now, id like to get the rcbs rock chucker kit but can't find any other than some shady companies on Amazon with back order for a couple months. This forum is a shining beacon of hope in the void of empty shelves.
MidwayUSA will backorder some dies right now...might be worth locking in the dies you want or need.


Component wise I was able to order powder and primers yesterday and this morning for a friend but it's tough as a beginner to know what you want/need so it's a very expensive prospect right now. Might be worth talking to a local group to get into the component conversation. Definitely read a couple manuals and read forums (caution on using internet data)

Timming wise yes often trimming is necessary after firing and working the brass in the dies. Sometimes it's a once in 2 or 3 firings to keep things consistent...sometimes that frequent isn't necessary. A lot of new brass will be shorter than SAAMI spec so trimming may not be necessary but if you measure and notice a lot of variation it would be worth a trim for consistency and to make sure case mouths are square.
 
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Addicting

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So the chamfer and deburrer are 2 different tools? Is the primer pocket cleaner part of the hand primer tool or are they 2 different items?
This is the primer pocket cleaner that I use. I ended up with this after several others, it is simple and works very well.

DEWEY - CROCOGATOR PRIMER POCKET CLEANER​


The chamfer and deburr tool is:

RCBS - .17 TO .60 CAL CHAMFER & DEBURRING TOOL​

 

Don Fischer

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A case trimmer and caliper's aren't even remotely luxury items. You resize case's and pull then back over an expanding nipple and you will stretch the case's. Stretch them to far and they can get into the lands and create a bad thing, excess pressure! Without a gauge to check case length you cannot do it. Of course if the trimmer you have is that inexpensive Lee trimmer you could simply trim with each reloading. Then you'll get to seating bullet's. You could buy bullet's with a crimp grove and simply seat to that or seat to the OLL listed in the manual. To do that you need some kind of tool, most use a micrometer. I have heard you can get one at Harbor Freight for about $20 or a bit under. Very important tool! Lot of things you can skimp on, micrometer and trimmer are not in that group!
 

Don Fischer

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Am I correct in that case trimming comes into play after brass has been loaded and fired enough times to elongate the case correct? Is trimming sometimes necessary with new brass?
Case trimming come's into it when the case get's to long. Most case stretch I find come from dragging the neck back over the expanding nipple in the size die, much more stretch that from simple firing. De-burring and champhering then come's in to clean up the case mouth after trimming. Both inside and outside the case mouth needs de-burred! Not to much now, to much and your gonna start splitting case's fron the mouth back down the neck. Done right you'll end up with a small champher inside and outside the mouth and the top of the mouth will be flat, not sharp!

You will read about those that be-bur the flash hole. Not really necessary but if you want to you can make your own tool for the price of a drill bit. Also regarding the primer pocket, if you use military surplus case's, the primer's are crimped in. You need to remove that crimp to put in a new primer. The champhering tool works great for that. I have talked to guy's in the past that claim to do that with a pocket knife. Always needed a champhering tool so have never tried the pocket knife!
 

longbow51

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Aug 2, 2020
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I would try to find primers and powder before buying equipment otherwise you're in the same place you were with not being able to buy ammo, but with fewer dollars in your pocket.

And +1 on the good old Lee Loader; $10-IIRC (obviously that was a while back) and with a set of their powder dippers for another $10 or so, you were in business.
 

BuzzH

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I loaded ammo that met my accuracy standards and did what I needed it to do in the field for years without using either of those. So, yes IME they are luxury items.
I did as well...and it was good enough ammo to hit a popcan at a dynamite shoot at 575 yards with my 6mm Rem.

Cant tell you how many animals I killed without using either of those to load ammo as well...both from my 6mm and 30/06.

I had a lot of brass for both rifles and just loaded them 2-3 times and didn't worry about it. Finally went to a friends house and borrowed his brass trimmer...most weren't even in need of being trimmed, IIRC.
 

BuzzH

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To each his own. No way I load ammo without both. mtmuley
I wasn't scared...one bit. If I hadn't found a beam powder scale for dirt cheap, I also wouldn't have been afraid to just fill 30/06 cases with IMR4831 or IMR4350 and seat a bullet on top either...measuring 55.5-56.0 grains accomplished the same thing.
 

wayno945

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A reloading manual is a mostly a waste of money IMHO. Most of the manufacturers post their load data online for free.
 

AlaskaHunter

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Jan 20, 2017
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interior Alaska
Sooner or later you want to pull bullets from the loaded cartridges.
I highly recommend the bullet puller that mounts on the reloading press
instead of the "hammer" style impact bullet puller.
 

wayno945

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Tell that to someone in Texas after the snowstorm that’s looking at different loads-lmao. Also, aside from rolling my own accurate ammo, the thing that intrigues me and gives the most gratifying fulfillment is that you can reload without any power source but your limbs.
LOL... do you reload by candlelight?
 

Don Fischer

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The last 3 on your list are "luxury" items IMO. Definitely not needed to load ammo.

One thing I'd put on your have lists is case chamfering tool. I use a hand held one and do both inside and outside the case.
Maybe all but the last. Case's that stretch need trimmed. FL size and pull the case back over the expander and the case will stretch! Chamfering tool de-burr's the inside and outside of the mouth. But you need a trimmer and a caliper to determine when to trim and to trim.
 

Don Fischer

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Bullet puller is a personal thing. I have the press mounted and hammer type. Quit using the press mounted years ago as I always ruined the bullet's with it. With the hammer type I messed up the tips. Tried sponge in the puller and still messed them up. Have since learned to pull with the hammer type and not one bit of damage to the bullet. Both type's will ruin the bullet!
 

antelopedundee

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I can send you my manual RCBS 510 scale. I use a electric one and when that takes a crap I’m going to a Chargemaster. A RCBS rock chucker press will is a great press that you will never need to upgrade. Plus if you want it will install primers, albeit slow.

Powder dispenser is nice but all you need is a trickler, cut Dixie cup, and a spoon. Plus I would recommend a plastic set of tweezers. I find myself using mine all the time when I over throw by a few kernels.
I don't need a trickler. A powder measure/dispenser is nice if you're lading with ball powder, but for the stick powders like IMR4831 don't bother. Just hand weigh your charges using a small plastic cup and spoon. The plastic, wooden or even metal tweezers are a plus.
 

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