I've been living under a rock, caliber/rifle inquiry

[Farmerj]

Get a pair of long shoulder bolts. Cut the threads short enough they don’t interfere with the actual bolt in the action.

Cut the heads off about 1/2” longer than they stick out of the action and slightly round them. Coat them good, including the threads, with wax. Helps to align the action with the stock and fills the pillars and action threads to prevent mechanical lock.

I use 3/8” heavy rubber bands to hold the action in the stock. You can just wrap with string too.

 

[Jbotto]

Get a pair of long shoulder bolts. Cut the threads short enough they don’t interfere with the actual bolt in the action.

Cut the heads off about 1/2” longer than they stick out of the action and slightly round them. Coat them good, including the threads, with wax. Helps to align the action with the stock and fills the pillars and action threads to prevent mechanical lock.

I use 3/8” heavy rubber bands to hold the action in the stock. You can just wrap with string too.
View attachment 249407

Good advice! I used some all-thread cut to a workable length, but I like the cut off bolt idea better. The rubber bands on broccoli work well. Or customize some “Ranger bands” and cut to your desired width for holding power and ease of use.

 

[Farmerj]

Too great a risk of mechanical lock with readirod …

And it didn’t take much…

 

[Deleted member 20812]

If the bolts are slightly small for the holes, I take a few wraps of blue painters, tape to help them fit nice and firm. I use blue painters tape to secure the action in the stock while the bedding dries.

 

[Bsquad]

Paste wax works as a release agent too.

Use modeling clay to fill ANY PLACE that can create a mechanical lock. I find it easier to just remove the trigger and safety assemblies and fill holes with clay.

Mechanical lock is bad.

As with anything…. A good bedding job is all about the prep work.

You may want to consider your first bedding job in that cheap plastic factory stock before you work on that Bell & Carlson. Consider it a cheap teaching aid.

Good point.

 

[Farmerj]

Put a piece of painter tape on the FRONT of the recoil lug. Helps with disassembly and prevents mechanical lock.

 

[Jbotto]

Too great a risk of mechanical lock with readirod …

And it didn’t take much…

Haha yep. Scared me for a few minutes before I got it all unscrewed.

 

[Deleted member 20812]

Put a piece of painter tape on the FRONT of the recoil lug. Helps with disassembly and prevents mechanical lock.

I also do a layer of tape on the sides and the bottom. I did not on my Kimber when I bedded t it, and it is so tight to get out of there. I was sweating a little bit when I took it apart the first time.

 

[ImBillT]

Don’t learn how to bed from this thread. Watch some videos. Then read the comments about bedding in the thread.

 

[Deleted member 20812]

Google, stress-free pillar, bedding

 

[Bsquad]

Don’t learn how to bed from this thread. Watch some videos. Then read the comments about bedding in the thread.

Yeah, some videos before attempting is definitely going to happen. Otherwise, it'll look like a kid's arts/crafts project or I'll have a one piece rifle.

 

[ImBillT]

Yeah, some videos before attempting is definitely going to happen. Otherwise, it'll look like a kid's or I'll have a one piece rifle.

If using an epoxy(JB Weld) you can always get the rifle apart with heat. All epoxies that aren’t heat cured will soften at pretty low temps. Usually well below boiling. A blow dryer and some time will heat it up enough to pull it from the stock. If you have to do that, you’ll probably need to redo the bedding. Before you resort to heat, you can put it in a chest freezer, and sometimes that will loosen it up enough to get it out of the stock, and the bedding will be fine, so you don’t have to do it again.

Using your release agent properly, and keeping your bedding compound out of bad places are the two most important thing to prevent sticking. While I would not recommend it for just one bedding job, Partall Paste 2 has given me much better results than regular paste wax. If anyone skimming the thread does lots of bedding jobs, you’ll be glad you switched.

Don’t get too hung up on doing it exactly a certain way.

 

[Farmerj]

 

[ImBillT]

^^^ That’s a great video that addresses some important potential issues. Still need to watch some videos on start to finish bedding if you’ve never done it.

 

[BackofBeyond]

If I'm remembering it right, I read somewhere that they were having good results with a liberal coat of Hornady One-Shot as a release agent as well. Any body try that?

 

[nhenry]

If I'm remembering it right, I read somewhere that they were having good results with a liberal coat of Hornady One-Shot as a release agent as well. Any body try that?

I did and it worked pretty well.

I prefer kiwi neutral shoe polish though

 

[D_Walt]

Yeah, some videos before attempting is definitely going to happen. Otherwise, it'll look like a kid's arts/crafts project or I'll have a one piece rifle.

I have a one piece model 70 from my first bedding attempt…

 

[Bsquad]

I have a one piece model 70 from my first bedding attempt…

But, how's it shoot?

 

[44hunter45]

I have a one piece model 70 from my first bedding attempt…

Redneck cryo it. Stick it in your chest freezer set at the coldest setting it has. I've rescued a couple of different buddy's DIY oops this way.

 

[44hunter45]

I have a set of headless bedding studs for the various maker's thread patterns. I wrap them in tape until they go in the hole just snug. Ditto what others have said about using tape or rubber bands to squeeze the action in. I also put some turns of painter's tape around the barrel to make sure it stays centered in the channel. The barrel will flex enough that it won't leave your action too high. The biggest mistake you can make is to over-torque it in the bedding. You actually risk warping the action and you defeat the purpose of the bedding by squeezing it all out.