I've been living under a rock, caliber/rifle inquiry

[Deleted member 20812]

You actually risk warping the action and you defeat the purpose of the bedding by squeezing it all out.

This.

 

[D_Walt]

But, how's it shoot?

It doesn’t shoot any worse than prior to my bedding job, so I have that going for me

 

[Bsquad]

Well, I'm impatient.
Disassemble johnny 5.
Mocked up, she cycles like a dream.
The B&C stock needs very little trimming
Burn your factory 700 stocks people, they are happy meal toy quality.

 

[Farmerj]

I’d say go shoot it.

This is the starting load for my .260 Remington and I haven’t even played with powder weight. The difference of left and right groups was 0.075” vs 0.045” off the lands.


Rifle isn’t bedded yet. Bell & Carlson M40 stock. Recoil lug sits back against the aluminum bedding block as it is and that provides a “pillar” that the oem poly stock just doesn’t provide.

The Woox and MDT XRS chassis’ install the actions no differently.

 

[Bsquad]

I’d say go shoot it.

This is the starting load for my .260 Remington and I haven’t even played with powder weight. The difference of left and right groups was 0.075” vs 0.045” off the lands.
View attachment 249701

Rifle isn’t bedded yet. Bell & Carlson M40 stock. Recoil lug sits back against the aluminum bedding block as it is and that provides a “pillar” that the oem poly stock just doesn’t provide.

The Woox and MDT XRS chassis’ install the actions no differently.
View attachment 249702

There are a few videos on how/what to trim for the Magpul magazine into B&C stock. Absolutely none of it applied for a long/std action. The stock just needed the screw holes and cross bar sanded out minimally w/a Dremel.

 

[Farmerj]

Little difference between a LA vs. SA other than distance between the action screws. So I wouldn’t get too wrapped up over that part.

Now, cartridges you can run between them, that’s another discussion…

 

[nhenry]

Looks good. Did you take out the pressure point or was there even one that stock?

 

[Bsquad]

Looks good. Did you take out the pressure point or was there even one that stock?

The swivel screw was protruding through the forearm enough to touch the barrel, just touched it up with a Dremel. A dollar bill goes all the way back the recoil lug. I'm not sure if it was supposed to be designed that way, but minimal effort to knock it down. Overall, I'm happy with the stock, much more solid feel and sound when the bolt is cycled.

 

[fortunato]

I got good advice and get a caliber that is on the upswing versus the downswing. Meaning 6.5 seems to be getting more and more popular (upswing)

 

[Don Fischer]

That was a thought às well. The hurdle is that it's 20+ years old and only cost $250-300 new, apparently it's never held zero very well according to my dad, 15 year old me apparently didn't care or know any better.

Not sure I'm getting this. Didn't hold zero? That sounds to me like a sight problem or a shooter problem, not a rifle problem. Without a doubt some rifle's simply don't shoot well but generally however big the group might be they will pretty much hang there. If your talking about the point of aim moving around, that could be bad bedding and/or loose action screws or sight mounts.

I have a 30-06 a lot older than that, it was customised in 1945! Barrel was abused with corrossive primer's and not in good shape but still shoot's right at 1 1/4" groups. Have a 2 3/4x Redfield on it I got new about 1970 and sighted it in several year's ago and the point of aim hasn't moved since. The age of the rifle has little to do with holding zero! The condition of the bedding or the action screws could effect it's ability to group.

 

[Don Fischer]

Depends on the barrel you want. You can probably get it done by a smith for as low as 500 (wilson or mcgowen) and up to 1100 (proof carbon barrel) and you can get whatever chambering you want.

I had a spare 25-06 in a 700 BDL years ago. Had the barrel taken off and a new Shilen barrel in 6.5x06 put on. Seems it cost me something like $600. About the same time I picked up a Parker Hale in 25-06 and had a Shilen barrel in 6.5x55 put on it for the wife. They had to open the bolt face on that one and it cost a couple hundred more. Both rifles went back into their factory stocks. I also have a mod 70 featherweight I bought new about 2003 and I thing it was right at $750. brand new Mossberg Patriot cost me just under $300 and got a replacement wood stock for about another $150. All four of those rifles shoot better than they actually need to! Point is If you want a certain chambering you can't find, pick up a used rifle and have it rebarreled. That Parker Hale I got at a gun show just to rebarrel and it ran me $250, which was part of the about $800 the finished rifle ran me.

 

[Bsquad]

Not sure I'm getting this. Didn't hold zero? That sounds to me like a sight problem or a shooter problem, not a rifle problem. Without a doubt some rifle's simply don't shoot well but generally however big the group might be they will pretty much hang there. If your talking about the point of aim moving around, that could be bad bedding and/or loose action screws or sight mounts.

I have a 30-06 a lot older than that, it was customised in 1945! Barrel was abused with corrossive primer's and not in good shape but still shoot's right at 1 1/4" groups. Have a 2 3/4x Redfield on it I got new about 1970 and sighted it in several year's ago and the point of aim hasn't moved since. The age of the rifle has little to do with holding zero! The condition of the bedding or the action screws could effect it's ability to group.

Edit: I've probably repeated myself like a crazy person, I didn't reread this thread so disregard anything I've already posted

It's had two different scopes on and shots were incredibly inconsistent. The newer one was all over the place 50yds had 3 shots on all over an 18" target. The point of the age/price was to say it's almost not worth doing anything with.. 20yr old rifle that was bare bones then isn't worth much today.

However, I've since replaced the stock with Bell and Carlson, magwell magazine conversion, timney trigger, torqued and loctite everything, laser bore sighted. I haven't had a chance to take it out since the trigger took forever to show up and kid/work commitments take priority.
ADL to this:

 

[EKYHunter]

Lots of great info in this thread. Thanks to all who posted. Can’t wait to see your range results OP.

 

[Justindrader]

Edit: I've probably repeated myself like a crazy person, I didn't reread this thread so disregard anything I've already posted

It's had two different scopes on and shots were incredibly inconsistent. The newer one was all over the place 50yds had 3 shots on all over an 18" target. The point of the age/price was to say it's almost not worth doing anything with.. 20yr old rifle that was bare bones then isn't worth much today.

However, I've since replaced the stock with Bell and Carlson, magwell magazine conversion, timney trigger, torqued and loctite everything, laser bore sighted. I haven't had a chance to take it out since the trigger took forever to show up and kid/work commitments take priority.
ADL to this:
View attachment 259452

Looks good. I did almost the exact same thing with a 300 win mag and very pleased with the results. Best of luck.

 

[Kevin11mee]

Assuming it is the barrel, I would strongly consider rebarreling that rifle. A custom barrel chambered by a good gunsmith will be very nice. Also, that 700 action that's now butter smooth from being run for years will be great once it's squared up.

 

[Red-Team 98]

Just order a great barrel from Douglas and rebarrel your current Rem 700 and have him blueprint the action.
Recommendation Georgia Precision Arms great work they do. That Rem 700 is a great action.

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[BoomerUSAF]

HT will never learn.you’re an adult, pick your most accurate caliber and stick with it. Don’t let random strangers pick for you.

 

[Don Fischer]

That was a thought às well. The hurdle is that it's 20+ years old and only cost $250-300 new, apparently it's never held zero very well according to my dad, 15 year old me apparently didn't care or know any better.

I have a 700 in 25-06 I got used about 30 yrs ago for about $200 as I recall. besr group I ever shot in my life was with that rifle at 5 shot's into .111" with 100gr SMK. with 117 Gr Hornadys it runs just under 3/4". I got screwed!

 

[Don Fischer]

It has new rings, bases, and a VX3 4.5-14 mounted. Being that it's older than 2 decades and it was a budget rifle to begin with, sinking any money into it feels like a lost cause.

However, @BuzzH @Backofbeyond what's the cost for a rebarrel?

Did ya ever check the bedding on it?

 

[danr55]

I agree with Buzz. Time alone won't affect the way a rifle shoots. The first thing I would do is give the barrel a good cleaning with a wire brush and a copper solvent. Be sure to oil down the rifling after the solvent to prevent corrosion. After you clean the barrel GOOD, remove the scope and mounts. Clean the action rings where the scope mounts go. Before you clean them, look close. If there are signs of dirt where the bases were, then they were not pulled down tight to the action. If there are slight ridges around where the bases were, then they were pulled down tightly. Remount the scope and zero it on the bench. I use a site lite to get every rifle I work on close...and that is a lot of rifles. Then take the rifle to the range and shoot it. If it still won't shoot, get someone else to shoot the rifle. That way you'll know if its the arrows of the Indian that needs work.