PEAX Equipment

Traditional Archery???

Layin_It_Down

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Joined
May 21, 2009
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226
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Roundup, Mt
I'm looking to get into traditional archery for next season. I got a little picky this season after seeing some georgous bulls, but then I got to wondering, "What the hell am I doing!, I wouldn't pass up a rag horn any other year and now I don't have an elk in the freezer." I would have more fun sticking a spike with a longbow than a big bull with my compound anyday.

Been wanting a Longbow for years, and now I'm getting a little more serious. Don't have a big budget, but I was curious if anybody had some suggestions about bows and quality. Thanks...
 
Thanks, I'll check out his sight. I have lots of questions, like what is stacking??? and I see bows in different lengths; what do I need for a 29-31" draw?? Hopefully some folks on here can get me lined out.
 
I'm sure this'll tick off the bowbuilders on here, but the bows I've looked at are the Bear Montana, PSE Sequoia and the Martin L-100. The reviews seem to be good on these bows and the price is right, but what do I know: that's why I'm asking I guess. Thanks...
 
Check out Three Rivers Archery for starters. Then being as you are already in Montana, look into Schafer Silvertips (spelling} Forget the PSE in my opinion. The Martin "Hunter" recurve is probably the best alltime value in the way of recurves. Elburg archery makes some outrageous fast bows if you want to go the longbow route. I personally would start with,(and stay) with a recurve. Many good old Harry Drake designed bows built by Browning still out there and available. So many good custom bows around these days, you should be able to get set up fairly easy on the wallet.
 
Check out tradgang.com . Best site on the web for traditional archery. You can find great used custom bows at a fraction of the new price.
You really need to find your correct draw length before buying a bow and there's lots of info on how to accomplish that. Bow weight is another big factor and you need access to some traditional bows to get a good feel for weight and draw length. My advice is to start with a bow that's cloose to 45#s at your draw length. The worst thing you can do is to get a bow that's too heavy---you develop form problems from the start and heavy bows wear you out and limit your practice time.
 
I have a couple of Black Widow take down recurves that I am considering selling due to health concerns, they are a excellent recurve and worth a look. Let me know if you or any other posters have any interest and I can send along some photos..........MH
 
You really need to find your correct draw length before buying a bow and there's lots of info on how to accomplish that. Bow weight is another big factor and you need access to some traditional bows to get a good feel for weight and draw length. My advice is to start with a bow that's cloose to 45#s at your draw length. The worst thing you can do is to get a bow that's too heavy---you develop form problems from the start and heavy bows wear you out and limit your practice time.

Been shooting a compound for 19 years now. I started with a 85# bow at 50% letoff. Shot my first elk with that bow when I was 15. That specific bow had a 31" draw. Once you snap your arm with a bow like that though, it was time to trade up. I updated a few years ago and went to a 29" draw and a 72# bow. Much nicer, I must say. I'd like to think I could draw a traditional bow without a problem. I would like to find something in the 55# class and draw length to match my shooting. With a 29" draw, I bend my arm a lot. A technique/bad habit I learned while shooting the heavier bow. I'm not sure if arm bend is even possible with a recurve or longbow, thus my range in draw length from 29"-31".
 
Compounds and trad bows are not comparable. The typical anchor point for a trad bow is somewhere around the corner of the mouth. Most guys of average build have a 27 to 28 inch draw. With a compound I have a 30 inch draw. With my traditional bows I'm at 28. Form is critical with trad bows and when you're starting out you need a bow that you can comfortably hold at full draw while you correct your form issues.
 
When I shot my older bow at 31", I shot fingers and held at the corner of my mouth and the tip of my nose. My new bow at 29", I shoot a release. It sounds like I need to get out and test fire a few. I guess I figured there was no set draw length on a traditional bow, just a close estimation.
 
For reference, I shoot 30" with a release with a compound. My recurve, like the others have metioned is a different anchor point and shorter release. I shoot a 30 year old 50 lb @ #27" Ben Pearson recurve, cedar arrows and 150 grain 2 blade magnus. It takes a lot of consistent practice to feel confident with mine. It's killed deer every year since I bought it 4 years ago. It's fun to watch the shaft launch and immediately start it's arc. Those slow heavy arrows penetrate, with a very audible cutting noise! It's fun.

If I'm shooting traditional bow, I'm going to shoot cedar. I don't get the idea of shooting traditional with carbon arrows and 100 grain heads....
 
If you're in the market for anything/everything related to traditional archery, be sure to check out:

http://www.3riversarchery.com/

Before I'd drop a whole lot of money on a custom bow, I'd think about picking up a used comercial bow. I picked up an older Ben Pearson recurve for $50 off of ebay.
 
I'll be sure to check out 3 rivers. Thanks... I'll also check out e-bay. Is there any specifics or concerns I need to look for before buying a used bow?
 
If not a take down, make sure there are little/no cracks or chips around the limb tips. Also, anything that looks like or any add that even mentions delamination, run the other way. A bit of spiderwebbing in the fiberglass on the limbs is too bad, but it's too easy to find something that doesn't have it than to worry.
 
Lots of bows on e-bay to look at. Lots of "Vintage" bows from the 60's or 70's for around $50-$100. This kind of stuff scares me a little. A good bunch of them have "stress marks" on the limbs. Is that from lots of use, or from drawing the bow too far (past its capabilities)? Is there a certain kind of used bow to look for? I see lots of Bears, which I tend to shy away from.

I'm almost thinking about selling my current bow and all the accessories and look for a newer or custom bow.
 
Leupold BX-4 Rangefinding Binoculars

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