Tikka T3 lite barrel threading?

[bluegrassdan]

You don't cut the threads on the adapter until it is permanently/solidly attached to the barrel. That way, you indicate the bore concentric in the lathe, then cut your threads on the barrel, attach the adapter and lock it down, re indicate the bore to make sure it did not shift, then thread the adapter . If you have the barrel in the lathe and are doing all of that, you might as well go ahead and recut the crown- recessed to help prevent damage- to make sure it is exactly 90° to the bore line and the edges are nice and sharp. This way, since you are now only going to attach to the adapter, those threads run concentric with the bore. It eliminates any chance that the threads are off concentricity and run true. This assumes that the threads in the end cap of the suppressor or the end of the brake were cut concentric. That is why I insist on having whatever you plan on attaching, in the shop, on the bench, so I can verify that everything is running straight and true before it goes back to the customer.

 

[Irrelevant]

If it were me I’d send it to Paul, have it cut to 20”, threaded, cerakoted, and a lightweight suppressor. It’s not that expensive to ship and you know you’re getting quality. Stick with a good 130 grain load in the .270 and I can’t imagine that the recoil will be noticeably different than a .25-06, especially with a suppressor.

Im not cerakoting a stainless barrel. And I'm only shooting 130 because I don't have the time to work up a 117 hammer hunter load. Also, 270 runs about 15 ft-lbs of recoil energy, vs a 25-06 is more like 10.

 

[MThuntr]

One suggestion. Paul Hampton. You will not be sorry.

His Instagram from Sept 3 says he's not taking new work until he catches up

 

[Wind Gypsy]

His Instagram from Sept 3 says he's not taking new work until he catches up

Good man. Lots of smiths could learn from that kind of thing.

 

[ropeup79]

You don't cut the threads on the adapter until it is permanently/solidly attached to the barrel. That way, you indicate the bore concentric in the lathe, then cut your threads on the barrel, attach the adapter and lock it down, re indicate the bore to make sure it did not shift, then thread the adapter . If you have the barrel in the lathe and are doing all of that, you might as well go ahead and recut the crown- recessed to help prevent damage- to make sure it is exactly 90° to the bore line and the edges are nice and sharp. This way, since you are now only going to attach to the adapter, those threads run concentric with the bore. It eliminates any chance that the threads are off concentricity and run true. This assumes that the threads in the end cap of the suppressor or the end of the brake were cut concentric. That is why I insist on having whatever you plan on attaching, in the shop, on the bench, so I can verify that everything is running straight and true before it goes back to the customer.

How it should be done? Yes. What most people do? No. Most people using adapters are buying pre threaded ones and hoping everything lines up.

 

[bluegrassdan]

How it should be done? Yes. What most people do? No. Most people using adapters are buying pre threaded ones and hoping everything lines up.

LOL...trust me I get those in the shop all the time, unfortunately its usually after they get a baffle strike and they ruin an expensive piece of kit. 99% of the time, they fit fine, but if the threads on the barrel are not in tolerance, the chances of having misalignment goes up greatly. I just hate having to fix stuff that should not need to be fixed.

 

[Irrelevant]

Side note. Apparently this gun really likes this ammo. 4 shots = 1.15" @ 200 yds