Question on Case Trimmers

[Rzrbk]

I'm just getting into reloading and plan on loading about 5 different calibers (.280, 6.5 Creedmoor, British 303, 5.56, .223).

For trimming cases it appears you can go two routes; 1) a universal type trimmer such as the RCBS TRIM PRO® -2 MANUAL CASE TRIMMER KIT, or 2) get individual trimmer dies for each caliber.

So, I'm hoping to get some advice on which route to take.

Thanks in advance for any insights.

 

[antelopedundee]

For volume I would not recommend the file type trim dies.

Personally I use the Forster trimmer.

https://www.natchezss.com/forster-original-case-trimmer-kit-includes-6-pilots-3-collets.html

Rather than mess with changing collets, etc. I just have 2 trimmers. Most of my stuff is based on .30-06 cases so all I need do is change pilots. Looks like you have at least 3 different case head sizes. I mount mine on a board and just bolt it to the bench.

 

[Millsworks]

The Lee case trimmer with pilots for each cartridge is cheap and effective.
For high volume trimming I recommend the Franford Arsenal trimmer that mounts in a drill and is adjustable to any length you want for any cartridge. It registers off the case shoulder instead of the case head.
Midway carries both. May be cheaper to go with the Frankford Arsenal instead of buying multiple pilots.
Both models can be used with a drill to speed up the process.

 

[WapitiBob]

I used to use piloted trimmers but won't do that again, I'm not putting anything into the case neck. I use the wft trimmer. Setting depth is a pain but that's about all that's wrong with it.

 

[mtmuley]

Forster. mtmuley

 

[Addicting]

I use the Sinclair/L E Wilson trimmer. It sizes off from the body of the brass. You have to buy a shell holder for each cartridge. It’s not the most efficient but it is one of the most consistent.

 

[antelopedundee]

I used to use piloted trimmers but won't do that again, I'm not putting anything into the case neck. I use the wft trimmer. Setting depth is a pain but that's about all that's wrong with it.

I just use an under size pilot. Doesn't seem to matter much.

 

[Deleted member 16014]

I used to use piloted trimmers but won't do that again, I'm not putting anything into the case neck. I use the wft trimmer. Setting depth is a pain but that's about all that's wrong with it.

I’m also using WFT.

OP there is a 3rd option…for case designs that don’t grow dramatically, send off every 2-4 firings and have it done by a service. There are guys that offer trimming, annealing, etc. by the batch via mail. Depends if you have more money or time. I’m often short on both so I just complain about how much I hate trimming .

 

[winmag]

+1 L E Wilson

 

[Jbotto]

I started out with the Lee trimmers for every cartridge I reloaded for. Went to a mini-lathe style Lyman trimmer. I still end up using the Lee trimmers for small batches as I chuck the shellholder into a drill and then after trimming use a debur/chamfer tool while it’s still in the drill. Honestly this is a pretty cheap and efficient way to trim brass as you can get in a groove and it goes fast. The downside is all the parts and for each cartridge add up and you need a good way to store/organize them. My wife gifted me a WFT for the .223 last year and I’ve got so much ammo loaded for that rifle that I haven’t touched it in over a year. I do plan to use that in a drill press when the time comes.

Maybe it’s just the method I’m most comfortable with, but I do use the Lee trimmers more than the Lyman mini-lathe. I still use it for trimming freshly necked-up cases for my .338-06 as they are all short from spec but I do trim the to get them all the same length.

 

[Rzrbk]

Thanks for all the replies. I went with the first recommendation (Forster) since I'm trying to move my new hobby along quickly. I got the Rockchucker Supreme Press Kit and now I'm studying up on reloading manuals and related information.

I have another question regarding crimping the shell cases. The Speer Manual gave three situations where you might need to crimp. My rifle meets none of the situations. I read the section several times and it's unclear if you have to crimp a bullet that has a canneleur sp.? I plan to load Barnes, 139gr LRX and they have a canneleur. Do I have to crimp? Should I crimp anyway? My understanding is that you wouldn't try to crimp a bullet without a canneleur regardless. My .280 Remington is the main focus. I've got a couple more loading manuals on the way, so maybe one of those will have better info regarding the "crimping" issue.

Thanks!

 

[EastTNHunter]

Crimping is not required for bolt actions. Not needed for lots of rifle applications, actually. Heavy recoilers do best with a crimp. Lever actions need to be crimped

 

[Addicting]

Crimping is not required for bolt actions. Not needed for lots of rifle applications, actually. Heavy recoilers do best with a crimp. Lever actions need to be crimped

Nailed it! With the exception of Hammer bullets, they get crimped for any type of rifle.

 

[Rzrbk]

Nailed it! With the exception of Hammer bullets, they get crimped for any type of rifle.

So if I bought Hammer bullets they would come with a warning that they must be crimped? How would I know that?

Thanks a bunch for the feedback.

 

[Addicting]

There is no formally published load data for them. You have to use one of the online forum boards for the starting data. Hammer bullets has its own forum you can read up on all the testing and data.

Basically, because of their unique design they need the crimp to keep consistent neck tension. There is no warning as they will shoot without it. But, they will sometimes shoot sporadic, the crimp takes care of that issue.

This sounds like a lot but they are probably the easiest bullet to load and group. Plus they work great on game and blood shot is a absolute min.

So if I bought Hammer bullets they would come with a warning that they must be crimped? How would I know that?

Thanks a bunch for the feedback.

 

[Millsworks]

I have crimped on and off for most cartridges.
I now don't crimp anything . It isn't any real benefit in a bolt gun, even with magnums.

 

[Rzrbk]

Thanks for all the info. I'm looking forward to gaining some cartridge independence. My .280 requires the same manufacturer load to be consistent and I'm tired of the stress of availability. I'm really looking forward to getting into this, starting with .280 and then moving into .303 and 6.5 creedmoor. Seems that good .223, 5.56, 9mm ammo is cheap and readily available and so maybe not worth my time. The original owner of my house was a photographer and so has a small photo room as part of the larger workshop. It's small, but has sink and lots of drawers and storage, nice wraparound counter, lots of outlets and an exhaust fan. I suspect this hobby will also be therapeutic to take my mind off crazy shart happening in the world! Researching loads, keeping good records, labeling, notes at the range..., the stress relief could add years to my life if I don't blow myself up.

I recently bought my 12yo daughter a compact xbolt 6.5 creedmoor and I can easily find good ammo on line. It shoots good enough with over-the-counter 143gr Hornady ELD that I'm comfortable using it this year till I get my .280 ammo situation worked out. I'll just replace the pink sling with camo and it will work.

I really appreciate all the advice!