Pre 64 Facelift

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Does rebluing harm the value of a Pre-64? Someone told me it would. I have a 1947 M70 Alaskan in 30-06. The stock needs to be re-done, and that's all well and good, but the metalwork is weathered as well. I kind of like the look of it, but I want to maximize the rifle's health as well as it's value.

Anything you do to alter it devalues the gun in terms of collector's worth. That includes shooting it. It's an individual decision for sure.
 
That's a great looking stock. You certainly couldn't say that about a synthetic stock, though they do have their place.
 
Very impressive. I would be intimidated to take on given the ADD that would set in somewhere between wet sand 1 and 2.
 
I have refinished and glass or pillar bedded a few pre-64's over the years. The "reduced value" issue is kinda relative. A standard or featherweight gun in 30-06 or 270 or a featherweight 308 are not particularly valuable. The caliber, variation and condition are everything.
If you have a battered and worn 30-06 with ANY alterations (like pad or extra holes) that's pretty much a $500-$600 gun. Some buyers snap them up for the action on a custom build.
When you are at that low end of the collector spectrum- a refinish isn't gonna hurt the value- unless it's butchered of course. Today's entry level injection molded wonders sell for twice that.
I've never heard of Model 70 Alaskan in 30-06, and I didn't think that moniker was used until the late 50's. They were 338's and later .375's.
Now if you have a less common caliber or variation- like a carbine, African or Supergrade then you may want to carefully review your decison before tearing into one.
I do see people trying to peddle "rare pre-64's" for collector prices that have been cut for pads or drilled for side-mounts , either of which crush the collector value.
In this case- the refinish was beautifully done- enhancing the appearance and protecting the wood for the owner. He may have actually improved the market value of the gun depending on how scruffy it was to begin with.
 
I refinished mine years ago and steamed out any dents it had, then wet sanded it. It really turned out nice. But since I altered the original finish it isn't worth as much to a gun collector. But it was my grandfathers and I still hunt with it.
John
 
My Pre 64 Model 70 suffered in the elements this year. The factory shellac finish really took a beating the rain and was peeling like a bad sunburn.

I did some research and found a Model 70 restoration stock oil. The original finish came off very easily with Citristrip. I lifted the grain, lightly sanded, recut the checkering, and went to work with the oil.

I did a total of eight wet sands, four with 320 grit and four with 400 grit. I did eight coats of oil, buffed with 0000 steel wool, then three more coats of oil. I'm going to let this cure for a couple of weeks, then polish it out with oil and rottenstone.

Can't wait to get it rescoped and do some load testing.
looks excellent! are you going to glass bed? I always did an extra coat of oil on the barrel channel to seal it better, at the time I was living in New England and the big variations in humidity tended to move things around.
 
Does rebluing harm the value of a Pre-64? Someone told me it would. I have a 1947 M70 Alaskan in 30-06. The stock needs to be re-done, and that's all well and good, but the metalwork is weathered as well. I kind of like the look of it, but I want to maximize the rifle's health as well as it's value.
Probably the biggest factor is caliber, then condition, stock refinish is the easiest thing to return to original as there are plenty of original finish stocks around. Reblue is a real big NO on the lever guns as most collectors prize the patina of honest use. I have a 257 Roberts super grade circa 1953 that is 95% and is worth 4-5X the value of a 30-06 standard I bought for the action and paid $500 for. The prewar actions with the inletted rear tang (versus the oval that sits on top of the stock) are still in demand for custom builds and bring a premium particularly the magnum length.
 
looks excellent! are you going to glass bed? I always did an extra coat of oil on the barrel channel to seal it better, at the time I was living in New England and the big variations in humidity tended to move things around.
I sealed the barrel channel, but I don’t have plans to bed it. It doesn’t come out to play very often, and it’s an MOA gun as is.

Pretty good chance it’ll go to Wyoming with me next year if we draw our antelope tags.
 
Beautiful work @JLS. You have more patience than me, I did mine this spring, but I used the herters French red stock filler and tru oil. Color looks very close but I didnt sand enough times to get a perfect smooth finish as you did. Again, beautiful work.
 
My Pre 64 Model 70 suffered in the elements this year. The factory shellac finish really took a beating the rain and was peeling like a bad sunburn.

I did some research and found a Model 70 restoration stock oil. The original finish came off very easily with Citristrip. I lifted the grain, lightly sanded, recut the checkering, and went to work with the oil.

I did a total of eight wet sands, four with 320 grit and four with 400 grit. I did eight coats of oil, buffed with 0000 steel wool, then three more coats of oil. I'm going to let this cure for a couple of weeks, then polish it out with oil and rottenstone.

Can't wait to get it rescoped and do some load testing.
Very nice!!! Great job on the facelift
 
That looks great. I've watched a few Potterfield videos where he re-cut the checkering, I'm guessing it took you a lot of painstaking hours.
 
Probably the biggest factor is caliber, then condition, stock refinish is the easiest thing to return to original as there are plenty of original finish stocks around. Reblue is a real big NO on the lever guns as most collectors prize the patina of honest use. I have a 257 Roberts super grade circa 1953 that is 95% and is worth 4-5X the value of a 30-06 standard I bought for the action and paid $500 for. The prewar actions with the inletted rear tang (versus the oval that sits on top of the stock) are still in demand for custom builds and bring a premium particularly the magnum length.
What are the value ranges of the pre ww2 super grades at? Do you know by chance?
 
What are the value ranges of the pre ww2 super grades at? Do you know by chance?
It varies so much, a super grade chambered 7mm mauser carbine might bring $10K in 95% condition, a 30-06 standard rifle in the same condition might be $1,500-2,000. Check the Blue Book of gun values and the book by Roger Rule which details caliber rarity and production of specialty orders. The commemorative rifles that were made in the post war years for various distributors tend not to have much collector value relative to rare chamberings and specialty items like African models.
 
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