Input, pro / con of design ultralight wall tent

[Sytes]

At a critical point of how to fashion most effectively my ultralight wall tent. I have hordes of time as many know... thus been putting the single stitch of my tent together and letting my mother in law do the overlap double stitch.

This is the deal: two major design differences...

My initial has guy lines used for side over lap flaps to tighten tent faming, roofing and a ceiling cover for my noseeum netting windows:

This one eliminates guy lines - any cordage... with about mutual weight (+,-)

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This is a decision that will be very difficult to reverse... so really seeking input on pro's and con's of both... The interesting pro to the no guy line one... It can still use cordage if necessary...

 

[idnative1948]

I am worried about that span for snow load. Just my HMO. If it dumps fast ( an warms overnight) then who knows.

 

[Dinkshooter]

I'm not gonna lie, I do not understand the drawings?

 

[Oak]

If I understand the second drawing correctly, I think the unsupported area where the two V's come together would be a concern with a snow load.

 

[Sytes]

m, i have it my mind though tough to des n
Take the initial 3 set drawing and view either front or rear design. The "awning" on either side extends out a certain distance and angled in a main support method. It is based on the taunt manner that keeps the roof side as smoothly crisp as possible.

By going with #1, that seems more standard and would have three guy lines pulling taunt that side of the tent for main tension.

Sorry guys ill have to add another post or edit this one... drugs and sleep really playing havoc on my post apologies... keep dropping the phone and hitting mass buttons.

Sorry. Sleep calls.

 

[1_pointer]

That drawing looks similar in design to the Sawtooth offered by Kifaru but much, much larger.

http://www.kifaru.net/sawtooth.html#

Just a suggestion, but I would make sure the sides of some angles to them to shed the wind. Something that is flat sided and 19' long will catch a lot of wind. I'd make sure to have LOTS of stake and guy line points. What type of pole/frame arrangement are you planning on? If just a pole at each peak, I would think that flat sides would be more problematic than if you used some sort of frame to help support the fabric. I would think a frame that follows the peak, down end each corner with a couple of supports along the sides would work. It would also allow for another 1 or 2 poles along the peak for support during heavy snow loads.

Just my 2 cents...

 

[1_pointer]

Just remembered these tents, they are somewhat similar in design (Montana Lodge and Wedge Tents specifically) to what you have drawn up. Thought I'd pass them along...

http://www.montanacanvas.com/collections/additional-tents

 

[Baerman]

If I'm reading your plan correctly, what's the purpose of the overhang on the side walls? Seems like you won't get tension on the underside of fabric and not sure how that would transition from overhang to front or back of tent.

Also seems like that overhang would catch wind and lift the side walls.

 

[spook12]

Sytes i dont think i fully understand your prints, but it sure is good to see you pickup the project! Hope it turns out well for you.

 

[Sytes]

Apologies for my last post. I kept dozing off. The meds made it tough to finish my thoughts... oh well, it was late anyhow.

Hopefully these drawing give a bit more dimension to better visualize my question.

If you are able to view the overhang, I can keep it as it is currently. No problems with such though my thought is i can make this tent to not require a single cord as guy lines. Front, back or side. And reduce weight of two stakes.

The reasoning behind the overhangs is mainly due to my noseeum netting windows along the sides. The netting will have tent material that covers it on the inside though the overhang keeps the snow and rain from reaching the windows. Oh, main purpose of windows is to ensure max beathability. The tent material has a coating on the inside for a second layer of waterproofing and my concern is typically that coating reduces breathability with camp stoves.

Anyhow, both designs following the angle of the roof, completely cover those windows and imo minimize snow build up along side walls.

The front and rear were initially designed as a standard wall tent, straight flat walls, however i figured the weight of the tent material and the reduction of two to three cords guy lines on each end and the additional mass interior additional space on both ends, it was worth a slight bit more weight and again, removes the need for guy lines.

The triangular ends on the side walls would reach the ground with loops to place the stakes. Oh, that is the othe aspect, it reduces the stakes by 2 as one less for each side versus the three using the flat overhang.

I'll have to take a look at the links offered as i have not seen a triangular tent side extending out for the stakes to hold.

The general goal is to make a more abuse resistant ultralight large horse and backpackable tent (backpackable in the sense this tent can sleep 4 people comfortably so 13-15lbs can be divvied up).
i have purchased the large titanium stove from seeks outside (company referred by i think oak) and that with the pipe is only three pounds... so currently with the stove, i am sitting at 15lbs total weight and maybe less. It can drop down to 13lbs though i am considering extending the length 2ft longer (12') then initially intended. The front height dropped to 8' with the rear staying at 6'.

Baerman, that is an interesting point and a stong possibility. I have re enforced with small patches of 1000 denier for the inside two main pole points. It may be worth making three mini semi pocket points on the underside with that same material for 3' mini pecker poles to keep the 3'walls without loosing their integrity. The side base walls have 3 stake points with a 3-6" (still debating how much is "really" necessary) as a type of sod cloth made from a 500 denier material. So should drastically reduce any under wall draft.

1ptr, i have small inside tent 1000 denier triangle cut small pockets at either peak end for pole tip or pecker pole tip points and a 2"flat webbing running from both points to keep tension off the main tent material. I bought some aluminum poles that extend from 5'-8' however my goal is for backpack use to cut peckerpoles for the poles and have the retractable poles for hore pack use. If you see on the top view, there are points for stake locations... i felt that would be the minimal i could go and still keep integrity... thoughts? I'll take a look at those sites, thanks for the links.

Oak, i was thinking the point where the two "V's" met so long as there is tension equally distributed it will keep the same angle as the v's and roof. Only real concern is it is rare to find such perfect level ground. Just was not sure if it would be an issue of concern or if snow load it would simply dip that center portion and drain off at that point.

Idnative, the pitch of the roof i believe should be reasonable enough. 8'peak to 3'foot wall @9'wide or (4.5') considering peak to wall, i am hoping should not be a problem... the 6'peak side i believe is a potential for concern though viewing my "mock" mini build it still holds a steep enough angle.

Spook, thanks! Feels good to be productive if even a sewing machine is the ticket. Haha! I dig building - stuff! Heck i got on my riding mower and kicked out about 1.5 acres of weeds - really for me to get out and feel a sense of doing stuff other then sitting in the wheel chair watch tv or stuff drive me nuts and makes me feel like i am slacking. I filled the tank to reduce the chance at crawling my way back to my wheel chair. My pt and ot were not as excited, nor my wife for fear of falling off or getting stuck... bah! Gotta push it a bit to excell! Wife was happy to see the pasture weeds chopped down.