Raising GSPs is a rewarding and sometimes frustraiting undertaking. I raised 3 from pups and followed the training methods from the "Gun Dog" book.
You've gotten some good advice on here. Keep it simple and focus on the basic obedience commands for now. It's the foundation that everything else is built on.
Kennel training is a pain in the but at first but it's worth it. Make it a comfortable refuge for them, ie/ a soft warm blanket or at least a comfy dog bed in there for them.
When the pups are small the have tiny bladders and need to go out 1-2 times a night. I would lock them in their kennels (in my bedroom) when I went to bed and took them outside as needed. When they finished they were put right back. after 3-4 weeks they should be big enough to sleep through the night without having to be let out.
Consistency is key, make the dog sleep in there every night. After a while it becomes a home away from home and it will spend alot of time hanging out in there of its own will.
Some dogs are stubborn and like to pull. One of my 3 was a hard puller on a leash. The best remedy I found was a muzzle harness you connect the leash to. As the dog pulls harder the webbing pulls tighter around the muzzle and the dog will stop dragging you up the sidewalk. When the dog walks at your pace the webbing is relaxed and he can open his mouth and pant like normal. Once he starts pulling it tightens up and gets uncomfortable to the point the dog stops pulling. This was more of a bandaid approach but it worked.
Pointing at stuff is hard wired into their DNA, it's our job to foster and encourage that trait when they are young then start steering them to point the things we want ie. quail not tweety birds and dead mice.
2-5 minute point and flush sessions in the back yard with the old bird wing suspended from the end of a fishing pole work good for this (warning - your dog will get crazy excited any time you grab your fishing gear.)
The other big part of the equation is exposure. Get them out to experience the sights, sounds and smells of the field. For a while I keep them on a leash or check cord and try to get them into birds as much as possible (wild or planted.)
Eventually your dog will put the pieces together of you chasing birds, shooting a bird, finding the bird, letting the dog smell and taste the bird, and bagging the bird. It's like a light goes on on their head, they stop just running around and having fun and start actually hunting for the specific smell of birds you are after.
Some dogs get it the first time for others it may take several trips before the light comes on. It is a very cool experience to witness the moment they figure it out and they start "hunting".
I'm far from the greatest amature "dog trainer" out there, but all 3 of my dogs have been wonderful family dogs and hunting companions. My biggest failing is that I can get them to retrieve everything except dead birds in the field. They will help me find a dead bird at least, once found they take off looking for live ones. Oh well I can live with that.
I wish you the best of luck, enjoy your dog.
You've gotten some good advice on here. Keep it simple and focus on the basic obedience commands for now. It's the foundation that everything else is built on.
Kennel training is a pain in the but at first but it's worth it. Make it a comfortable refuge for them, ie/ a soft warm blanket or at least a comfy dog bed in there for them.
When the pups are small the have tiny bladders and need to go out 1-2 times a night. I would lock them in their kennels (in my bedroom) when I went to bed and took them outside as needed. When they finished they were put right back. after 3-4 weeks they should be big enough to sleep through the night without having to be let out.
Consistency is key, make the dog sleep in there every night. After a while it becomes a home away from home and it will spend alot of time hanging out in there of its own will.
Some dogs are stubborn and like to pull. One of my 3 was a hard puller on a leash. The best remedy I found was a muzzle harness you connect the leash to. As the dog pulls harder the webbing pulls tighter around the muzzle and the dog will stop dragging you up the sidewalk. When the dog walks at your pace the webbing is relaxed and he can open his mouth and pant like normal. Once he starts pulling it tightens up and gets uncomfortable to the point the dog stops pulling. This was more of a bandaid approach but it worked.
Pointing at stuff is hard wired into their DNA, it's our job to foster and encourage that trait when they are young then start steering them to point the things we want ie. quail not tweety birds and dead mice.
2-5 minute point and flush sessions in the back yard with the old bird wing suspended from the end of a fishing pole work good for this (warning - your dog will get crazy excited any time you grab your fishing gear.)
The other big part of the equation is exposure. Get them out to experience the sights, sounds and smells of the field. For a while I keep them on a leash or check cord and try to get them into birds as much as possible (wild or planted.)
Eventually your dog will put the pieces together of you chasing birds, shooting a bird, finding the bird, letting the dog smell and taste the bird, and bagging the bird. It's like a light goes on on their head, they stop just running around and having fun and start actually hunting for the specific smell of birds you are after.
Some dogs get it the first time for others it may take several trips before the light comes on. It is a very cool experience to witness the moment they figure it out and they start "hunting".
I'm far from the greatest amature "dog trainer" out there, but all 3 of my dogs have been wonderful family dogs and hunting companions. My biggest failing is that I can get them to retrieve everything except dead birds in the field. They will help me find a dead bird at least, once found they take off looking for live ones. Oh well I can live with that.
I wish you the best of luck, enjoy your dog.
Great reading. Maybe I'll have to get a squirrel dog...
