Caribou Game Bags - Sticking to Meat?

BraidenR

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I was able to use my new Caribou game bags over the weekend. Over the past few years I have adopted the Gutless Method. After changing field dressing techniques, I bought a some caribou game bags so I could get the hide off immediately after, and it helps keep it cleaner then leaving the one side exposed with the hide on until I got the animal back to camp. They worked great, and I was absolutely loving them.

The only down side to my first and only experience using them, was that when I dropped the meat off at the processors, the bags were stuck to the meat, and stuck good. Even to the point of small chunks of the meat tore off and is still stuck to the bag. From the time I shot the bull, it was less than 2 hours and he was in the shade and hanging at camp. He was in the bag less than 24 hours. Spent a cool night in the high 30's hanging in a dry shed. The processor commented on the cleanliness of the meat, and tested the roast to make sure that they had been cooled sufficiently in the 24 hours. Everything seems to have checked out. He also mentioned that many others who use caribou bags have the same issue.

Has anyone on here had a similar experience? Did you continue to have this happen after the first use? Do you do anything to prevent it? While the meat lost in this instance is very minimal, what if the meat is in the bags for longer next time. Would it get to the point of needing to be cut off?
 

Mtnhuntr

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Have used Caribou bags for the past couple years and have never had that issue. No idea what their QC looks like, but I would contact them to see what they say. When I have talked to them at expos they have always been gracious.
 

wllm1313

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I haven't experienced that issue, used mine set on maybe 10 critters... possibly a new added starchy substance to keep them folded nicely or something.

Just cleaned up mine from a deer hunt.
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BraidenR

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When I have talked to them at expos they have always been gracious.
I actually purchased these at an expo, and you are correct there, They are very helpful and informative. I may give them a call

Just cleaned up mine from a deer hunt.
Any tips on how to get them as clean as yours?

I figured if it was a bigger issue, I would have heard about it before buying. I have a tendency to really exam new items before purchasing. I was surprised at the processors when it happened and more surprised when he said it tends to happen with that specific brands. I was wondering along the lines same lines as a possible starch or manufacturing chemical that was still on them, since I did not wash them this first go. It could be just my fault for not doing that. As i said I was highly impressed by them with everything but this. they were easy to hang, light to pack. durable, and kept the meat clean in one of the windiest and dustiest hunts I have ever been on. It is amazing the how dusty that mountain dirt can be when the wind is relentless, causing for now dew in the mornings, even at 10,000 feet.
 

wllm1313

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Any tips on how to get them as clean as yours?
I'm pretty OCD, I rise them with cold water when I get home in the sink, flip them inside out to get any tiny pieces of meat, then soak them over night in a tupperware with of cold water and dawn. Then I rise them out and put them back in the container with bleach for a couple of days, then throw them in wash with vinegar in the bleach container of the washer machine and air dry.

Total over kill, but I like them to look like new cause I'm a nut.
 
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Mtnhuntr

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I'm pretty OCD, I rise them with cold water when I get home in the sink, flip them inside out to get any tiny pieces of meat, then soak them over night in a tupperware with of cold water and dawn. Then I rise them out and put them back in the container with bleach for a couple of days, then through them in wash with vinegar in the bleach container and air dry.

Total over kill, but I like them to look like new cause I'm a nut.
I do something similar except I soak them in dawn and bleach for a day before throwing in the wash, but will have to try the vinegar. @wllm1313 attention to detail is typically unrivaled.
 

BrentD

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Hydrogen peroxide instead of bleach (seems likely to be harmful in the long run)? Just asking. Not being a "nut", I just toss them in the wash and call it good.

Maybe I am just a different kind of nut.
 

wllm1313

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I do something similar except I soak them in dawn and bleach for a day before throwing in the wash, but will have to try the vinegar. @wllm1313 attention to detail is typically unrivaled.
No scientific backing for this but I hoping the vinegar + air dry will lower the bags pH, making them slightly acidic and hampering bacterial growth.
 

BucksnDucks

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I've used caribou bags for many years and I'm still impressed with the performance. As far as meat sticking, is it in areas with lots of pooled blood? Quarters, straps, or loose meat? My guess would be coagulated blood or compression from the pack out.
If back strap or off bone meat, I always try to tie some cordage to the meat then tie at top so it "hangs" in bag as opposed to a bag with a bunch of meat at the bottom.
For cleaning I generally wash with hose, turn bag inside out then soak in bucket with a little detergent changing water a few times. After a day or two in bucket it's into the washing machine, light bleach air dry
 

BraidenR

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This is very much the same as I have done in the past. Never came out that clean. Possibly the change in material will provide a different result. It could also be that while ideally I would get them soaking immediately after removing the meat for processing, I had to run to work, and they have to sit and dry an additional 8 hours till I return to get take care of them. But I will do the best I can.
 

wllm1313

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Hydrogen peroxide instead of bleach (seems likely to be harmful in the long run)? Just asking. Not being a "nut", I just toss them in the wash and call it good.

Maybe I am just a different kind of nut.
Personally, I've never really got the performance I wanted out of hydrogen peroxide as a household cleaner. I use 40 vol for heads, but that's about it... I know that one "can" buy some pretty potent stuff but I've never been able to find it, I know some taxidermists swear by Aqua Silk Shocker, which I think is essentially 54 vol... but I've called around + looked on the internet and never found it for sale anywhere.
 

BrentD

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wllm1313 - you might ask a hair dresser who uses it for those peroxide blondes. I have heard that they have it, and may sell you some or tell you their source. Like I said, a tumble in the wash with regular laundry detergent and I'm good to go.
 

Bambistew

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The bags will stick, doesn't matter the brand. I think I have about 40 game bags (or more) of various makes and flavors including TAG, Caribou, and Allen?. Just this last week I had a couple moose quarters "stuck" to the game bags. Just shake them and they come loose. It seems that most of the time when they stick its due to putting them in the bag immediately upon skinning, and the meat is very clean with no fat. If the meat can dry out, even for 15-20 min, they usually don't stick nearly as bad or at all. Also if you leave it in a bag as it dries out, it will stick, almost every time in the area where there is pressure on it. It doesn't hurt anything, and I've never had any issues with stuck meat harming bags. To be honest, for me, its unusual to not have some stuck to the bags unless I rotate out the meat to new bags soon after the kill, or move the bags/meat around as they are drying.

For bag care... I soak them in a tub of cold water, rinse and repeat until the water is clear, then launder with oxy-clean, hang to dry.
 

mulecreek

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I'm pretty OCD, I rise them with cold water when I get home in the sink, flip them inside out to get any tiny pieces of meat, then soak them over night in a tupperware with of cold water and dawn. Then I rise them out and put them back in the container with bleach for a couple of days, then throw them in wash with vinegar in the bleach container of the washer machine and air dry.

Total over kill, but I like them to look like new cause I'm a nut.
You don't do anything halfway do you?
 

BucksnDucks

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It seems that most of the time when they stick its due to putting them in the bag immediately upon skinning, and the meat is very clean with no fat. If the meat can dry out, even for 15-20 min, they usually don't stick nearly as bad or at all. Also if you leave it in a bag as it dries out, it will stick, almost every time in the area where there is pressure on it.

For bag care... I soak them in a tub of cold water, rinse and repeat until the water is clear, then launder with oxy-clean, hang to dry.
Yes and Yes!!
 

ImBillT

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As far as peroxide goes, 40 volume is like 12.5%. Seems like most guys dump a gallon into a five gallon bucket and top off with water when they do a euro. By my math that’s 2.5%. If they don’t fill up all the way so the head doesn’t make it overflow, that might be in the 3% range. Guess what’s in a brown bottle...3%. $.88/bottle time 16-20 bottles to get 4-5gal and you’re at $14.08-$17.60. How much is a gallon of 40 volume developer? About $14-$18. Just a heads up if you can’t find the stuff.
 

WapitiBob

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Meat has stuck to my caribou game bags ever since I bought them. Bad enough it's pulled chunks out of the muscle. Now I make sure and pull the bags away after 10-15 minutes.
 

wllm1313

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You don't do anything halfway do you?
My wife seems to think taking apart the vacuum to clean it every other month is excessive...
As far as peroxide goes, 40 volume is like 12.5%. Seems like most guys dump a gallon into a five gallon bucket and top off with water when they do a euro. By my math that’s 2.5%. If they don’t fill up all the way so the head doesn’t make it overflow, that might be in the 3% range. Guess what’s in a brown bottle...3%. $.88/bottle time 16-20 bottles to get 4-5gal and you’re at $14.08-$17.60. How much is a gallon of 40 volume developer? About $14-$18. Just a heads up if you can’t find the stuff.
I use the developer creme, paint it on, and use paper towels to make a paper mache with it, then I wrap it in plastic and let it sit for 10 days to a month.
Lol not sure who the idiots are that don’t understand dilution. What I’m saying is that you can buy actual 27% peroxide... I’ve just never seen it in a store, it’s a pool product rather than a hair product.
 

ImBillT

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My wife seems to think taking apart the vacuum to clean it every other month is excessive...

I use the developer creme, paint it on, and use paper towels to make a paper mache with it, then I wrap it in plastic and let it sit for 10 days to a month.
Lol not sure who the idiots are that don’t understand dilution. What I’m saying is that you can buy actual 27% peroxide... I’ve just never seen it in a store, it’s a pool product rather than a hair product.
Dang that’s some strong crap the way you use it! At least it’s “strong” if you accidentally bump into it etc. The total oxidative power(might not be the right term) however is identical whether you wipe it on and leave it, wipe it on and dunk it in water, or mix the same amount in water and dunk it then. The diluted versions are not only less likely to mess up your skin or clothes if you have a minor accident but they’ll likely clean your game bags better as well. The runny liquid should allow for much better distribution and movement of the H+ ions.

A lot of people don’t realize that 40 volume H2O2 is 12.12%.
 

wllm1313

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Dang that’s some strong crap the way you use it! At least it’s “strong” if you accidentally bump into it etc. The total oxidative power(might not be the right term) however is identical whether you wipe it on and leave it, wipe it on and dunk it in water, or mix the same amount in water and dunk it then. The diluted versions are not only less likely to mess up your skin or clothes if you have a minor accident but they’ll likely clean your game bags better as well. The runny liquid should allow for much better distribution and movement of the H+ ions.

A lot of people don’t realize that 40 volume H2O2 is 12.12%.
Honestly I've applied 40 vol without gloves when I ran out of gloves, got it all over my hands, no ill effects... I think the "power of hydrogen peroxide" is massively over blown. I've only found it to be effective if left to work for extend periods of time. I bet if you got the pool 27% stuff on your hands and clothes you would be fine as long as you washed them off within 20min or so... IME the brown bottle store stuff is about as useful for taxidermy as distilled water.

Sorry OP for massive side track into the world of EURO mounts lol

@ImBillT I agree that the power is the same whether in a liquid or creme but the creme adheres better to the bone, even better with the paper mache, essentially more peroxide is in contact with the bone for longer, the process if further prolonged with the plastic wrap as this reduces/eliminates evaporation. If you just gooped it on and walked away, the peroxide would puddle and/or dry off and you wouldn't' get as good of a result. Obviously dunking the skull bucket of peroxide would be the best in terms of uniformity, but then you still have to deal with evaporation + it's wasteful as you have to use so much to fill a bucket. I've heard that bringing the 27% stuff to a boil and then dropping in the head will get you the same result as I get but in minutes rather than weeks. It's on my life of things to try.

As far a laundry, ammonia, acetone, bleach, vinegar and oxiclean are your best bets depending on the stain... the brown bottle peroxide doesn't really do anything.

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