I've actually never heard of this. The little google search I did on it seems important for steep incline/decline shots. I'm going to look at this more though as it seems like a good idea to do in general.
Broadhead Tuning Issue
- Thread starter rjlefty3
- Start date
I've actually never heard of this. The little google search I did on it seems important for steep incline/decline shots. I'm going to look at this more though as it seems like a good idea to do in general.
Dan O
Well-known member
The .006 shafts are great for practice with a field point. When you screw on a fixed blade broad head you have an entirely different set up. You have to spin test this combo and pick the ones that spin perfectly, not almost perfect but perfectly. Many guys will use this arrow for mechanical's but your chance of consistent arrow flight is unlikely with a fixed blade. I use the pro's for hunting and figure each arrow will only be shot one time so not to worry about losing such an expensive arrow. If you have any buddy's that shoot gold tips check and see if you can try a few xt's or pro's.
With the faster bows now days there is less room for error than there used to be. Any little flaw in spine, tuning or form is magnified as your arrow speed increases.
Good Luck,
Dan
Tylerm
New member
Without looking at the bow in person I would say that are under spined with the 340 shafts especially with the 50 gr brass weights. I would pull the weights and see where that puts you but in my experience as a Bowtech dealer that bow likes a stiffer spine. Also if you lay an arrow along your top and bottom cams is that arrow running parallel to the string if not you may need to adjust the cam lean a bit.
El Jason
Well-known member
A quick way to test the spine issue is to turn your poundage down to about 60-62 # and see if that helps correct the issue.
Your Bowtech should be yoke tuned. Did you paper tune it at the shop where you purchased it? When I got mine, I went back in after a couple of weeks and we yoke tuned through paper at 10 and 20 feet. I never had to make a single adjustment to it when it came time to shoot broadheads, these are very easy bows to tune.
Your Bowtech should be yoke tuned. Did you paper tune it at the shop where you purchased it? When I got mine, I went back in after a couple of weeks and we yoke tuned through paper at 10 and 20 feet. I never had to make a single adjustment to it when it came time to shoot broadheads, these are very easy bows to tune.
Have someone video tape you shooting with a digital camera. Shoot multiple time with you being video'ed. If you do it once or twice, sometimes . . . . subconsciously you do it correctly.
One of the hardest things to do about shooting is a bow is to NOT teach yourself bad shooting habits. Don't forget a good follow through on you shot. Be sure the arrow is leaving the rest/bow before you drop the bow. I typically like to see and hear the arrow hit the target, then drop the bow.
One of the hardest things to do about shooting is a bow is to NOT teach yourself bad shooting habits. Don't forget a good follow through on you shot. Be sure the arrow is leaving the rest/bow before you drop the bow. I typically like to see and hear the arrow hit the target, then drop the bow.
Shot a few arrows yesterday before dark. Definitely feel like my grip is the issue. Seems like the bow is pulling towards the riser and I end up putting a bit of pressure on with my thumb. Only had enough time to do some troubleshooting and play with the grip a bit. Seems I just can't get it stable without a little help from my thumb. Still need to try it without the added weight, but it feels like this is the likely issue.
Well, I was finally able to get out last night and shoot for more than just a few minutes. Also took me a while to get comfortable with the new grip position, but I think I have it down.
I also switched out my 50 grain insert to 20 grains. Going to WY next month for antelope so I figured that might help get me a bit more distance out of my pins.
Also messed around shooting on hills and such, first time I've realized how important 3rd axis is. Took me a while to figure out why my grip felt fine while my level was off. Definately going to invest in a quality sight with 3rd axis capabilities in the future.
Appreciate everyone's help/advice on this one!
I also switched out my 50 grain insert to 20 grains. Going to WY next month for antelope so I figured that might help get me a bit more distance out of my pins.
Also messed around shooting on hills and such, first time I've realized how important 3rd axis is. Took me a while to figure out why my grip felt fine while my level was off. Definately going to invest in a quality sight with 3rd axis capabilities in the future.
Appreciate everyone's help/advice on this one!
L. I. Yankee
New member
If you feel like it's a grip issue try removing the grip on your bow to make it thinner. A larger grip in your hand lends itself to torque more than a thinner one. The thinner grip on your riser will sit in the hand better for some people......just my 2¢........
