I don't wanna spend a fortune, something around $100 would be best. NO CHEAP CHINESE SHIT THAT CLOGS UP OUR LANDFILLS! That may be a lot to ask these days. I have 3 new (to me) rifles to sight in in 300 win mag & .338 win mag. Any suggestions? How about the Bushnell Boresighter? Are there any laser ones that are good. I looked on Amazon (I always go to the negative reviews of 1 and 2 and see off there are a lot of recent ones) and it was filled with cheap chinese crap. Im so sick of this inflow of garbage.
Best Bore sighter?
- Thread starter Cornbread
- Start date
I just remove the bolt and look thru the barrel and compare to scope. Then my first shot is at 25 yards. Use a tape measure and calculate. 16 clicks per inch for a scope that is quarter inch increments at 100 yards. Can usually get close to bullseye with just a handfull of shots.
The best option is just sitting it in sandbags, removing the bolt, and adjusting to the target. But this isn’t always an option if you’re working in your shop and need to bore sight one for a friend that doesn’t have the brainpower to do the pull the bolt method when he goes to the range (or the hood of his truck). And it obviously doesn’t work for semi auto and lever guns.
The Bushnell bore sighter with the collimator that go into the bore is the best option. 99% of the time it will be on a piece of 8.5”x11” paper at 100 yards.
The magnetic ones are almost useless for factory guns because they rely on the crown being cut perfectly perpendicular to the bore axis. They are, however, very useful for confirming your zero in the field. Zero the rifle, put the bore sighter on, take a photo through the scope of where the crosshairs are in relation to the grid in the bore sighter. Whenever you want to confirm zero without shooting, put the bore sighter back on and compare to your photo when it was zeroed.
The Bushnell bore sighter with the collimator that go into the bore is the best option. 99% of the time it will be on a piece of 8.5”x11” paper at 100 yards.
The magnetic ones are almost useless for factory guns because they rely on the crown being cut perfectly perpendicular to the bore axis. They are, however, very useful for confirming your zero in the field. Zero the rifle, put the bore sighter on, take a photo through the scope of where the crosshairs are in relation to the grid in the bore sighter. Whenever you want to confirm zero without shooting, put the bore sighter back on and compare to your photo when it was zeroed.
Scott85
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2018
- Messages
- 2,687
I’ve been using this one for over 20 years. BSA Bore Sighter Kit, Black/Silver https://a.co/d/4FPNPYE
Farmerj
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 12, 2021
- Messages
- 1,072
Like the others, just pull the bolt.
Used the pull the bolt method on a Marlin 336 last week. It helps to level the rifle. I level the rifle, then hang a plumb line to get the reticle vertical, then boresight. Use the one shot method method to put it a hair low at 25 yards or so before zeroing further out. Saves ammo.
I just have a question. How do you remove the "bolt" on a Browning BLR or a Browning BAR? I'm a newbie? Please help!!
Bushnell has one quite similar that I was looking at. Thanks.
I was actually looking at the the Bushell boresighter.
rjthehunter
Well-known member
Well for the 2 calibers mentioned in the original post I would pull the bolt. You can't pull the bolt in a BAR as there is no bolt. Just start at 10 yards and a big piece of cardboard.
HSi-ESi
Well-known member
I do either the "pull the bolt" method - or use this one: Leupold Zero Point Bore Sight
I have a few Lever actions... I do like the Zero Point, then shoot at 25 to make sure it's on paper
I have a few Lever actions... I do like the Zero Point, then shoot at 25 to make sure it's on paper
grizzly63
Well-known member
Use your $100 to buy ammo and start close.
Wind Gypsy
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2017
- Messages
- 1,803
2nd this. 1 shot, maybe 2 up close should get a guy just as close as a laser would
Unfortunately the range I go to got rid of their 25 yard backstop. All they have is 50, 100, 221, & 300.
grizzly63
Well-known member
Aim high, aim low, aim right, aim left, don't make this harder than it has to be. You will hit something.
grizzly63
Well-known member
My apology, I failed to mention that I use a 22" x 28" white poster board that shows bullet holes nicely.
Hunter4Life78
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 4, 2022
- Messages
- 1,154
Bought the Bushnell Bore sight with the arbors. Used one when worked in sporting good store. Personally like it a lot better than the laser ones available.
Don Fischer
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 27, 2017
- Messages
- 3,016
Pretty much the same way I do it but, I don't measure and then move. First I sight in at about 25yds. First shot from a barrel I sighted in as above. Then for the second shot, before shooting it, I point again at the origional POA and holding the rifle right there more the cross wire's to the first bullet hole. Fire the second shot and you should be good to get on the paaper at 100yds. Fire the third shot at 100yds and move the crosswires as needed to get to what I want for POA.
By adjusting the second shot with the crosswire's aimed at the origional POA and moving the crosswires to the bullet hole, you change the POA to where it needs to be to get you on the paper at 100yds. Then you simply measure to where you want the bullet to hit. I make my own targets and put a 1" grid on every one.
Caseknife
Well-known member
I pull the bolt and center on a point as far away as possible, center the scope crosshairs and am usually within 6" of the bull at 100yds. Semi-autos or lever guns are obviously different.
Similar threads
