I just bought TMOB another lens to go with here D80 as the only one she currently has is a 18-55mm. The sales rep said that it was a noticable step up in magnification, plus the VR would be good for motion shots (Jr. is getting old enough that moving is more common than sitting still). Is this a worthy set up or should I have saved a bit more and gotten something bigger?
55-200mm w/ VR
- Thread starter 1_pointer
- Start date
Depends on what you want to spend. If she is serious about wildlife, a DSLR is the only way to go, IMO. Beyond that, I can't tell you much. I think Tony Bynum shoots Nikons...you might ask him what he would recommend in your price range.
photofin
New member
definitely recommend a bigger lens if you want quality images. The quality of big lenses is all over the board so make sure you do some research. ie...what kind of aperture is on the lens, does it have Image Stabilization...etc.
Just to clarrify, I'm not expecting the 55-200 to be for wildlife photography. We took out today on a drive, and you're both correct, it doesn't have the Xs for good close up wildlife pics. But, I do appreciate the step up from the other lens.
photofin- Have you had any luck getting good images through digiscoping? If not, what size lens would you suggest?
photofin- Have you had any luck getting good images through digiscoping? If not, what size lens would you suggest?
photofin
New member
can't say that I have done much with digiscoping, but I have been around guys with the setup. I've seen mixed results, mostly quality enough to post on the internet, no magazine sales. But for personal use and such it can be a fun toy.
Pointer, I think you want the VR turned off for action shots. It's intended for a moving (shaky) camera, not moving subject.
Tony posted awhile back that he mostly uses the Nikkor 200-400mm lens for wildlife. Buy one of those... it's only $5k or so.
If I had $5K to spend it'd be for a trip and let the wife worry about the photography equipment!! Thanks for the tip on keeping the VR off for moving shots. I'll be in IN for 8 days for Xmas and may have to borrow the camera and get out and see if I can get any pics with the new lens to keep my sanity.
Thanks for the tip on keeping the VR off for moving shots. I'll be in IN for 8 days for Xmas and may have to borrow the camera and get out and see if I can get any pics with the new lens to keep my sanity.kiwi hunta
New member
You sure you want anti shake removed for moving shots? thats what aperture and shutter speed is for surely, I just bought a nikkor 55-200 afs vr lens for my nikon and I never turn it off.
Jeff.
Jeff.
Jeff- I haven't turned it off yet and the pics have turned out pretty good. But, most have been stationary subjects with the camera hand held.
Now, I just need to convice the wife to visit you in NZ and take a few snapshots!! A fellow she helped out a bit (long story) whom was a dual citizen in NZ warned her a couple of years ago to stay out of the country in that the organized crime had pretty much taken over and that it wasn't safe most places. Any truth to that? I personally think he was a bit off his rocker, but just curious...
Now, I just need to convice the wife to visit you in NZ and take a few snapshots!! A fellow she helped out a bit (long story) whom was a dual citizen in NZ warned her a couple of years ago to stay out of the country in that the organized crime had pretty much taken over and that it wasn't safe most places. Any truth to that? I personally think he was a bit off his rocker, but just curious...
leave it ON
leave VR ON! the new VR in that lens, as well as many others is designed to accept panning. I almost never turn the VR off on my lenses. . .
Also, as for nikon ED lenses. The fact is that almost all of the modern nikon "ED" glass is stellar, not withstanding aperture. . . canon is the same. For example, you can create picture perfect images with smaller aperture (5.6 and so on) ED lenses the challenge is shutter speed, max apertures, and where in the zoom range the lens is used. The extreme ends of the zoom range is to be avoided. That's why I always tell people to stay away from 500 mm small aperture third party zooms, they most are junk because if you have one you'll be trying to use it at 500 mm all the time and the quality difference beteen the third party 500's shot at 400 (to avoid the degradation found at the end of the range) is the same as the 80-400 shot at 400mm. So why not just by the 80-400 and shoot it at 400 and have a better all around lens? (I know someone will follow up with a photo taken with a sigma bigma at 500 and say "see how good it is at 500mm" but that's okay, we'll deal with that when it happens).
The quality variation of the ED optics themselves, among all nikon lenses is marginal. There are other reasons wide aperture glass is "better" but all nikon ED glass is as good as it gets. . . If you were to read the specs and the bench tests on nikon lenses all the ED glass shot at f11 is relatively equal given the proper shutter speeds technique. That said there is a difference with the 200 f2, and the 85 1.4, and a few other very special primes that are not the point of this discussion.
The point i want to leave you with is this, ED glass is not your limiting factor for quality images, exposure, ISO, shutterspeed, sensor, printing and last but not least, your skills are. . . .
I hope this helps a bit. . . .
Tony Bynum
www.tonybynum.com
leave VR ON! the new VR in that lens, as well as many others is designed to accept panning. I almost never turn the VR off on my lenses. . .
Also, as for nikon ED lenses. The fact is that almost all of the modern nikon "ED" glass is stellar, not withstanding aperture. . . canon is the same. For example, you can create picture perfect images with smaller aperture (5.6 and so on) ED lenses the challenge is shutter speed, max apertures, and where in the zoom range the lens is used. The extreme ends of the zoom range is to be avoided. That's why I always tell people to stay away from 500 mm small aperture third party zooms, they most are junk because if you have one you'll be trying to use it at 500 mm all the time and the quality difference beteen the third party 500's shot at 400 (to avoid the degradation found at the end of the range) is the same as the 80-400 shot at 400mm. So why not just by the 80-400 and shoot it at 400 and have a better all around lens? (I know someone will follow up with a photo taken with a sigma bigma at 500 and say "see how good it is at 500mm" but that's okay, we'll deal with that when it happens).
The quality variation of the ED optics themselves, among all nikon lenses is marginal. There are other reasons wide aperture glass is "better" but all nikon ED glass is as good as it gets. . . If you were to read the specs and the bench tests on nikon lenses all the ED glass shot at f11 is relatively equal given the proper shutter speeds technique. That said there is a difference with the 200 f2, and the 85 1.4, and a few other very special primes that are not the point of this discussion.
The point i want to leave you with is this, ED glass is not your limiting factor for quality images, exposure, ISO, shutterspeed, sensor, printing and last but not least, your skills are. . . .
I hope this helps a bit. . . .
Tony Bynum
www.tonybynum.com
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FS- Thanks for the tips! Unfortunately, I only understood about 1/3 of that. I really need to take that camera away from my wife more often and learn to use it better. Generally, I zoom to the frame I want and let the AF take care of the rest. Using the middle part of the lens' zoom range makes sense. Nearly all the limited experience I have with sport optics showing them all getting a bit less sharp at their extremes.
I really need to take that camera away from my wife more often and learn to use it better. Generally, I zoom to the frame I want and let the AF take care of the rest. Using the middle part of the lens' zoom range makes sense. Nearly all the limited experience I have with sport optics showing them all getting a bit less sharp at their extremes.
M
MN Public Hunter
Guest
I have this 55-200 and it's works just fine for general long range shooting. I have used it indoors and out and it's for sure a better outdoor lens than indoor, but with the proper lighting it's OK inside.
As for How To's...The best is to use the camera and experiment with settings, read the manuals and/or find a friend that uses the same equipment like I did and have them help you for learning the basics.
As for How To's...The best is to use the camera and experiment with settings, read the manuals and/or find a friend that uses the same equipment like I did and have them help you for learning the basics.
John Shaws book, "Nature Photography Field Guide" is about as good a one as i've ever seen. also, buy a subscription to outdoor photographer or nature photography, or search the web, it is full of great content. . . watch my blog for ideas too if you want. . . www.glacierparkphotographer.blogspot.com
Later,
Tony
Later,
Tony
