Winch or Diff?

[El Jason]

Yoters kind of stink as there’s no access cover to the rear diff. You’ve got to yank the whole third member out to access the gears (at least on my 25 year old truck, have no idea what newer ones look like).

Same on mine. Have to drop the drive shaft and take the guts out the front.

 

[El Jason]

A couple of thoughts… it’s really driver dependent. Winches are cool, but rarely used. If you went new front bumper the increased weight can really change driving dynamics. We’ve all seen those trucks with a heavy nose. You may need to work on front suspension… the winch can be a true life saver. I’d do one if I thought I’d really use it.

I have switchable lockers front and rear on my truck and haven’t got it stuck yet. It goes like crazy in snow and mud. I also have rescue boards, chains, and a come along just in case. I’ve been ripping around Spokane drifting in 4 locked up… so fun. Southhill grumpy ladies love me. Brap!!!

I hunt Central Washington and Eastern Montana each year and winch points can be hard to find. They do have some crazy winch anchors now though.

We all know wisdom is the key.

I’m not interested in a replacement bumper. I would use a hidden mount system so not too heavy. Weight is a consideration, but my front suspension will handle it fine. I can raise the spring perch up a notch if necessary.

Winch points has certainly crossed my mind. I would to find some sort of anchor system.

 

[El Jason]

Actually, that doesn’t sound too bad if the shop hourly is reasonable.

I haven’t looked at all this stuff in a while, but have you considered an Eaton Detroit Truetrac? If I recall, they need less maintenance than the clutch style LSD’s, not to mention quieter when they engage.

I don’t know if I can get a Trutrac for a Toyota. I’m pretty sure that’s what my work truck has, and it’s one of the few things with the pickup that have impressed me.

My local shop rate is about $100 per hour.

 

[LuketheDog]

Winches are only good when you have a good anchor point. The ARB locker has always seemed more useable and is high on my list.

 

[Elkmagnet]

I think you have to ask yourself if you are having trouble on roads where you have uneven weight on tires like in wash outs, rutting, rocks and creek crossing. That is where a locker is invaluable. Also are you usually around something to anchor a winch to.
My personal preference depends on what is available for your truck. If available I would
1. A selectable front locker
2. A Winch
3. A rear detroit truetrac or selectable rear locker.

A front locker will be far more effective in an IFS truck than a rear would be.
Also note that I wouldn't put a clutch type limited slip in unless I happen to have one laying around and was doing it myself. I have never gotten the results I wanted with one. The detroit truetrac is a gear type limited slip and functions completely different. They are great.

 

[Elkmagnet]

If you are considering it and have a 9" reverse rotation front I would put in a eaton E locker. I have had less issues with them than AIR lockers that periodically need new o rings.
Factor in the cost of a rebuild kit for the 9" also.

 

[Elkmagnet]

Yoters kind of stink as there’s no access cover to the rear diff. You’ve got to yank the whole third member out to access the gears (at least on my 25 year old truck, have no idea what newer ones look like).

Depending on if the carrier bearing adjustments are shim or spanner nut. A yota is typically really nice to do because you can do it on a bench instead of under the truck and you don't have to press the bearings on and off.

 

[El Jason]

If you are considering it and have a 9" reverse rotation front I would put in a eaton E locker. I have had less issues with them than AIR lockers that periodically need new o rings.
Factor in the cost of a rebuild kit for the 9" also.

No TrueTrac option for a Tundra. The Powertrax Pro is probably the best gear driven LSD option.

How do I know if I have that front end? An Eaton front e locker runs about $1200. Would install be more than about six shop hours?

 

[SD_Prairie_Goat]

That’s a thought as well. Another member is sending me info on some heavy duty recovery come alongs.

I haven’t asked my shop for a quote yet. Think more than five hours to install an Auburn limited slip? Parts are about five bills.

Did mine four years ago, $750 install about.

Vaguely remember some bearings and crush seals were done since they already had her opened up

 

[Tradewind]

IMO, if you need any of those, you probably shouldn't be there in the first place. Use the quads god gave you, or buy a quad to do the stupid chit and save your pickup for the roads.

No sense of adventure Bambi.

 

[Elkmagnet]

No TrueTrac option for a Tundra. The Powertrax Pro is probably the best gear driven LSD option.

How do I know if I have that front end? An Eaton front e locker runs about $1200. Would install be more than about six shop hours?

Powertrax grip pro looks like a similar design and should function the same. I haven't used one.
Everything I see says you have a 34 spline reverse 9" I would either pull the vin or diff sticker and call the dealer parts department. Ask what size ring gear and ratio you have.
Most shops only have one tech who is competent with differential's if any.
Depending on experience a half day is good and a full day is reasonable.
In my opinion its the easiest thing to mess up as a tech. You as a customer won't know if its truly right for 10 or 20k mi.

 

[Gerald Martin]

Kirkland toilet paper dispenser on both bumpers.

 

[Beignet]

Depending on if the carrier bearing adjustments are shim or spanner nut. A yota is typically really nice to do because you can do it on a bench instead of under the truck and you don't have to press the bearings on and off.

True that. When mine was giving me problems I desperately wanted to inspect the guts without taking the whole thing apart though!

 

[Tradewind]

I completely buried the truck early one morning late season w/ no one around being some place
I had no business being. Chains, shovels jack, etc.

Bot a winch last season. Put it on a receiver that fits into the hitch. Can transfer it to diffe vehicles.
It sits in the back, covered up. 95 lbs of extra wgt over the rear end
Thinking of getting a hitch put on the front of the truck. Bot a battery to run it off of if needed.
Off brand, smittybuilt. (as opposed to snooty built) into it all for about 5 and a half bills. snatch block extra tow straps for distance.
got long handled irons (bout 3 feet) for times there are not trees.
9500 winch. tried it out. more than enuf to drag the truck all over the place if needed w/ about 80 yards of cable and tow straps

 

[turbobrick]

I have front and rear lockers and a winch. They all get used quite a bit, and they truly go hand in hand. The locker will get you deeper into trouble that is tough to get out of, its imperative to have a winch (and other tools) to fall back onto. Winches are great as long as there is something to hook them to, if you wheel where there are lots of trees, I'd go that way. Just make sure to get some bow shackles, tree saver, snatch block, etc.

 

[Dsnow9]

I went with the winch on my tundra. I’ve used it a number of times for moving trees, projects around the house, hanging deer, and getting other people un stuck. The only time I have got my tundra stuck I just threw on the chains and I was out of there. Jacking the truck up to put the chains on in thigh deep snow… that’s a different challenge all together.

 

[Chingon]

I vote locker, with winch a close second. Winches help get you out of impossible scenarios, but depending on your approach those can be easier to avoid. However, I typically drive around in 2WD until I get some slipping, then 4WD Hi. Problem on a hill or with mud/ice? Flip on the locker(s) and power through. So easy to just hit a switch from the cab over trudging out to find anchors and fiddle with straps just to get over a single obstacle, only have to potentially do it again several times...

I use the crap out of my lockers, rarely use my winches.

 

[hank4elk]

I gave a nod to a winch. I have a Tacoma 4x4 & a F-150 offroad. Chains for both,rear. Both have some sort of Limited Slip Differentials. I never dealt with LSD,much....lol
I got my lumber rack for the Tacoma fitted for my Ford and put a 2500lb atv warne in a receiver behind the cab,with enough cable to reach the rear hitch & a front receiver,when I get one installed.
I can use it on either truck to load wood or elk or ?
Now this little winch almost pulls my Ford around...so I will get a real winch in a cradle to switch around. I pulled 2 neighbors out of the snow this week with a chain on the Ford in 4x4.

I have rarely ever been stuck. I use the don't do that method.
Chains,form stakes, tree rope, come a long have served me well.
Got my old F-250 stuck once for a few minutes. It had a solid front winch setup from the Navy.

The deep snow you folks show in pics,well that is what a tractor is for. And it is very ez to engage the 4H on the go. That is what it is for,before you get stuck. It does not hurt your truck to use the 4x4 option...LOL

 

[Addicting]

haven’t asked my shop for a quote yet. Think more than five hours to install an Auburn limited slip? Parts are about five bills.

I had one, never again. They are not limited slip in reverse. Get a locker!

 

[nrpate05]

I never needed a winch until this season. Our side by side got stuck in a serious drift and luckily one guy had a winch on his truck and pulled it out no problem. The cable was way longer than I expected too. Pretty handy.