Who here knows Remington 700s?

[BAKPAKR]

The two that I have without rifles in them have both had their barrel channels relieved substantially, so I couldn’t say if there was ever a marking in there or not, however, I’m 99% sure that McMillan does not use any identifying marks anywhere on the stock.

I had to double check one of my KS stocks. I can’t say with 100% certainty that it is a McMillan since I didn’t get it directly from them, but I assume it is.

 

[ImBillT]

I had to double check one of my KS stocks. I can’t say with 100% certainty that it is a McMillan since I didn’t get it directly from them, but I assume it is.

View attachment 208968

I must be getting behind the times. I don’t believe that any of mine have ever said McMillan on the recoil pad, or had an M in the barrel channel, but their website definitely shows the recoil pad that the OP posted a pic of, and the stock in your picture has a finish that looks exactly like two of mine. I would absolutely assume that yours and the OP’s are McMillans.

 

[nhenry]

I have one that had the infamous go off without pulling the trigger. Might want to look up that issue and get the new trigger for it.

The receiver on mine was actually produced in 1982, which is far before the bad triggers came out. But thanks for the warning

 

[nhenry]

I must be getting behind the times. I don’t believe that any of mine have ever said McMillan on the recoil pad, or had an M in the barrel channel, but their website definitely shows the recoil pad that the OP posted a pic of, and the stock in your picture has a finish that looks exactly like two of mine. I would absolutely assume that yours and the OP’s are McMillans.

When’d you get your stocks?

 

[cahunter805]

I had to double check one of my KS stocks. I can’t say with 100% certainty that it is a McMillan since I didn’t get it directly from them, but I assume it is.

View attachment 208968

That’s definitely a McMillan stock.

 

[ImBillT]

When’d you get your stocks?

Two came on 40Xs, the rest have all been pre-owned, however most of the pre-owned stocks came from close friends or my father. The last one I bought came directly from Bill Shehane complete with drops to 500yds written in silver sharpie. There was a time when McMillan’s website actually said that they didn’t put identifying marks on their stocks. I have a few McMillans from back when B&C was poop, no one had heard of Manners, and it was pretty obvious if you were looking at a Brown Precision or Kelbly’s.

The fill used to be a dead give away, but some others look similar now.

I’m not big on paying full price for anything.

 

[ImBillT]

The receiver on mine was actually produced in 1982, which is far before the bad triggers came out. But thanks for the warning

Actually I’m pretty sure the triggers from the very first 700 trigger until the X-Mark all had the same “flaw”. The safety blocks the the firing pin, but not the trigger. The trigger can be pulled while on safe. If the trigger sear fails to reset under the firing pin sear, then disengaging the safety will result in the firing pin firing. The “transfer bar” or whatever Remington called it, was not really the cause of all the problems. Mike Walker identified the issue and suggested a fix before the first 700 hit the shelves. While the triggers with a “transfer bar” instead of a solid trigger sear may have failed at a higher rate, the very same problem can and does occur with the earlier triggers. I’ve caused mine to “fail” just to see if I could. When you combine the lack of blocking the trigger with the two position safety that locks the bolt on safe, you really have a dangerous combination because you force the user to risk having the firing pin fire before they can possibly clear the chamber.

All that said A) no one would ever get hurt if people would just point the gun at a safe direction at all times ESPECIALLY WITH A ROUND IN THE CHAMBER. B) The trigger sear doesn’t fail to reset unless something is rusted, damaged, or adjusted too light for a factory trigger. C) A lot of triggers that can’t be adjusted as well as the 700 trigger have the same “flaw” of blocking the firing pin but not the trigger sear, and the only reason they never had such issues is because their springs were so heavy they would reset almost no matter what. In other words, the only reason people didn’t think those triggers had a “flaw” is because those triggers kinda sucked.

 

[nhenry]

Actually I’m pretty sure the triggers from the very first 700 trigger until the X-Mark all had the same “flaw”. The safety blocks the the firing pin, but not the trigger. The trigger can be pulled while on safe. If the trigger sear fails to reset under the firing pin sear, then disengaging the safety will result in the firing pin firing. The “transfer bar” or whatever Remington called it, was not really the cause of all the problems. Mike Walker identified the issue and suggested a fix before the first 700 hit the shelves. While the triggers with a “transfer bar” instead of a solid trigger sear may have failed at a higher rate, the very same problem can and does occur with the earlier triggers. I’ve caused mine to “fail” just to see if I could. When you combine the lack of blocking the trigger with the two position safety that locks the bolt on safe, you really have a dangerous combination because you force the user to risk having the firing pin fire before they can possibly clear the chamber.

All that said A) no one would ever get hurt if people would just point the gun at a safe direction at all times ESPECIALLY WITH A ROUND IN THE CHAMBER. B) The trigger sear doesn’t fail to reset unless something is rusted, damaged, or adjusted too light for a factory trigger. C) A lot of triggers that can’t be adjusted as well as the 700 trigger have the same “flaw” of blocking the firing pin but not the trigger sear, and the only reason they never had such issues is because their springs were so heavy they would reset almost no matter what. In other words, the only reason people didn’t think those triggers had a “flaw” is because those triggers kinda sucked.

Okay, I stand corrected. Thanks for the information. I have a question though. My action has the serial number that states it’s from 82, but the bolt opens on safety. What’s going on there? Aftermarket trigger? I know little to nothing about the 700 platform and how it works, aside from some cosmetic giveaways, which is why I started this thread

 

[hank4elk]

Okay, I stand corrected. Thanks for the information. I have a question though. My action has the serial number that states it’s from 82, but the bolt opens on safety. What’s going on there? Aftermarket trigger? I know little to nothing about the 700 platform and how it works, aside from some cosmetic giveaways, which is why I started this thread

I have always been able to cycle the bolt on safe on my 1973 700. I still can with the Timney I replaced the original with 20+ years ago. It never had a safety issue,just pull issue. The 3.5lb were they set it is very crisp and perfect for me.

I would drop a Timney in yours. Might even keep the Mac stock...LOL

 

[cahunter805]

Okay, I stand corrected. Thanks for the information. I have a question though. My action has the serial number that states it’s from 82, but the bolt opens on safety. What’s going on there? Aftermarket trigger? I know little to nothing about the 700 platform and how it works, aside from some cosmetic giveaways, which is why I started this thread

The very early m700 triggers have a saftey lever that locks the bolt. It’s a feature that some like and some don’t. It’s also very easy to trim the saftey lever to allow the bolt to be opened while on safe.
Your 1982 model is a non locking saftey though if it’s a factory trigger.
It could also be an aftermarket trigger. Got a pic of it?

 

[mtmuley]

Remington triggers when worked correctly are safe and as good as a replacement. mtmuley

 

[ImBillT]

When’d you get your stocks?

Oh when. I read that as where. Some where over twenty years ago, and one was just this spring, but when any of them was made I don’t know for sure. The newest McMillan that I own I bought in 2018 and I’m not sure how long he had it before I bought I’d from him.

 

[ImBillT]

Okay, I stand corrected. Thanks for the information. I have a question though. My action has the serial number that states it’s from 82, but the bolt opens on safety. What’s going on there? Aftermarket trigger? I know little to nothing about the 700 platform and how it works, aside from some cosmetic giveaways, which is why I started this thread

Could be an aftermarket trigger, could be a newer Remington trigger, could had the safety modified.

A piece of the stamped safety lever would move up into a slot on the bolt. I’d have to look at one, but I would not be surprised if you could grind on that lever a little bit and do away with the bolt locking feature. It wasn’t a very thick stamping, and the slot in the bolt wasn’t very deep.

 

[cahunter805]

Remington triggers when worked correctly are safe and as good as a replacement. mtmuley

Especially when they are clean and adjusted properly. I’ve seen factory sealed triggers so far out of tune it’s ridiculous.

 

[ImBillT]

The very early m700 triggers have a saftey lever that locks the bolt. It’s a feature that some like and some don’t. It’s also very easy to trim the saftey lever to allow the bolt to be opened while on safe.
Your 1982 model is a non locking saftey though if it’s a factory trigger.
It could also be an aftermarket trigger. Got a pic of it?

I guess most of mine with factory triggers are very old. They all lock the bolt, but they are all older. It wasn’t until the X-Mark came out that I noticed you could open a bolt on safe with a factory trigger. Lol.

 

[cahunter805]

I guess most of mine with factory triggers are very old. They all lock the bolt, but they are all older. It wasn’t until the X-Mark came out that I noticed you could open a bolt on safe with a factory trigger. Lol.

It’s as simple as to remove the safety lever from the trigger and cut about 1/2” off it.

 

[mtmuley]

Whatever the case, OP got a great rifle. .270 and all. mtmuley

 

[ImBillT]

It’s as simple as to remove the safety lever from the trigger and cut about 1/2” off it.

I believe that. The slot in the bolt isn’t very deep. I’m kinda surprised it’s a whole 1/2”, but I’m not looking at one at the moment.

 

[cahunter805]

It doesn’t necessarily have to be 1/2” but I usually trim them to look like the factory. Locking on left, non locking on right.

 

[nhenry]

The very early m700 triggers have a saftey lever that locks the bolt. It’s a feature that some like and some don’t. It’s also very easy to trim the saftey lever to allow the bolt to be opened while on safe.
Your 1982 model is a non locking saftey though if it’s a factory trigger.
It could also be an aftermarket trigger. Got a pic of it?

I don’t think it’s a replacement but again, I don’t know much. Ask me about tikkas and Sakos and Beretta shotguns, but I don’t know much about this platform. All in it for learning