noharleyyet
Well-known member
Get the trucoat Nick
When to keep or replace a vehichle
- Thread starter Nick87
- Start date
WildWill
Well-known member
Go get yourself a new/newish vehicle I vote. Sounds like something that'll have to be done sooner or later and you're currently in a good position to make it happen. Prices are outrageous but do you think they'll be better in a few more years? I wouldn't count on it. You could kick the can down the road but then you run the risk of having to deal with multiple issues at once like you've mentioned.
Irrelevant
Well-known member
100%, but if the salt is causing just cosmetic issues and it's already bad enough to decrease the value then I'd just stick with it until it dies. If the salt is causing increased degradation beyond cosmetic then that warrants selling it and buying something that you never use in the winter or something very very cheap.
Nick87
Well-known member
I don't ever see that happening.
Irrelevant
Well-known member
You buy something new just to have the salt do the same thing? That doesn't make much sense to me.
Maybe I need to go back and reread the options. How are your actions minimizing the road salt issue? Is the idea to just always have a new truck and thus negate any salt concerns?
Maybe I need to go back and reread the options. How are your actions minimizing the road salt issue? Is the idea to just always have a new truck and thus negate any salt concerns?
Nick87
Well-known member
It's either that or put some money into the body of the truck. But tracking mileage wise. They're all different ages but we're gonna all hit the 200k mark in about 3 to 4 years. Might be better to try and offset that now. Kinda.
rjthehunter
Well-known member
I'll throw this out there to anyone with a vehicle they're considering getting rid of for any mechanical reason... This doesn't really apply to something that is rusting really bad.
This spring, I noticed a shudder in my transmission. I have a 2018 silverado with at the time 140k miles.
Little bit of research, and it's fairly common for these transmissions to go out between 60k-160k. I thought about it for awhile. Considered trading it in, considered waiting for it to blow and dropping the $5k on a rebuild, then considered one of those extended warranties...
Long story short, I have an extended warranty that'll cost me $3,700 over the course of 4 years or 100,000 miles, and with the transmission being an almost guaranteed failure point, along with the potential for lifters to go out, I figured I might as well be covered.
I did my homework and landed on Endurance for a warranty company after talking with transmission shops and auto shops in my area. Still doesn't give any warm fuzzy feelings while waiting for the transmission to go out. Especially when driving 2,500 miles round trip to chase elk 2x a fall.
This spring, I noticed a shudder in my transmission. I have a 2018 silverado with at the time 140k miles.
Little bit of research, and it's fairly common for these transmissions to go out between 60k-160k. I thought about it for awhile. Considered trading it in, considered waiting for it to blow and dropping the $5k on a rebuild, then considered one of those extended warranties...
Long story short, I have an extended warranty that'll cost me $3,700 over the course of 4 years or 100,000 miles, and with the transmission being an almost guaranteed failure point, along with the potential for lifters to go out, I figured I might as well be covered.
I did my homework and landed on Endurance for a warranty company after talking with transmission shops and auto shops in my area. Still doesn't give any warm fuzzy feelings while waiting for the transmission to go out. Especially when driving 2,500 miles round trip to chase elk 2x a fall.
WapitiBob
Well-known member
Glad we don't have salt here; 450,000 miles, 20 years, and not a spot of rust when I sold it.
Nick87
Well-known member
Yah once the salt takes hold it can make some repairs and maintenance a pain.
Pucky Freak
Well-known member
Midwest car value these days should really be year/mileage/rust rather than just the first two.
I have a ‘08 Tacoma 241k miles and mild rust, and my wife has a ‘15 Traverse 185k miles and even less rust. These have been IA/IL vehicles their whole lives. Annual lanolin treatment, regular winter car washes, and garage parking makes a world of difference in fighting rust.
If a vehicle has regular oil changes and maintenance kept up, it can last a very long time. I’d rather have a well-kept vehicle with 250k miles on it than a poorly-kept vehicle with 75k miles on it.
I do my own maintenance so additional repairs on an older vehicle are less of a concern for me. Within the last couple of years I did a transfer case and a wheel hub for about $150 total. I can put an engine or a transmission in my truck, but once the frame rusts out it is done for.
If you are looking for cash efficiency, buy used & pay cash. Socking away $500 a month into a car purchase fund is the same as making a car payment, except you save on interest, loan application and processing fees, and never have to worry about late fees and penalties for a missed payment. When you have several thousand dollars put away, it doesn’t matter which of your vehicles kicks the bucket first, you just go and buy another one.
I have a ‘08 Tacoma 241k miles and mild rust, and my wife has a ‘15 Traverse 185k miles and even less rust. These have been IA/IL vehicles their whole lives. Annual lanolin treatment, regular winter car washes, and garage parking makes a world of difference in fighting rust.
If a vehicle has regular oil changes and maintenance kept up, it can last a very long time. I’d rather have a well-kept vehicle with 250k miles on it than a poorly-kept vehicle with 75k miles on it.
I do my own maintenance so additional repairs on an older vehicle are less of a concern for me. Within the last couple of years I did a transfer case and a wheel hub for about $150 total. I can put an engine or a transmission in my truck, but once the frame rusts out it is done for.
If you are looking for cash efficiency, buy used & pay cash. Socking away $500 a month into a car purchase fund is the same as making a car payment, except you save on interest, loan application and processing fees, and never have to worry about late fees and penalties for a missed payment. When you have several thousand dollars put away, it doesn’t matter which of your vehicles kicks the bucket first, you just go and buy another one.
Nick87
Well-known member
I do some maintenance myself but 7 to 8 months out of the year we are going 6 days a week. There's just not much time during the busy season for that or at less not how I want to spend my limited time that time of year.
Nick87
Well-known member
Im not really sure what your supposed to do. Thats not supposed to sound argumentative. Older vehivhles rust a lot faster once they start as well, like real fast. You can't go buy a cheap shitbox and expect it to be reliable or at least I can't and its not like I work in the same town or the next town over daily. Salt/rust unfortunately is just an expense of living and working in the midwest.
Nick87
Well-known member
Thought about this for a few minutes. Thats literally the definition of any vehichle purchase, unfortunately. I feel like running a vehichle until it dies can mean a lot of different things to people. But with the proce of repairs these days at what point do you say im not sticking x into a vehichle that's only worth y?
Nick87
Well-known member
I only put about 6 to 7k on the truck per year. Im honestly thinking about buying a newer truck (when the time comes) with higher miles. Because with the salt its clearly not paying to buy new and have it he rust on a newer low mile vehichle. And not driving in the winter isn't really an option. Thats when I do a lot of my hunting which is what I use the truck for. Not to mention we are pretty rural if I had to use the car I wouldn't make it to the pavement for a day or two at times.
Irrelevant
Well-known member
Here's a 5 min spreadsheet that supports how I would look at it.
Nick87
Well-known member
I wish vehichles lasted that long here. It would be worth sticking the money into them.
I relate to you @Irrelevant. Vanity's overrated; so is rust as long as it is not mechanical/structural.
I gave my 2012 Tundra to my son, who joined the military. I drive my wife's old Odyssey minivan, and am proud to say she drives a newer, prettier SUV.
The hardest part about the minivan is the feeling I get when I return to it in the parking lot. It drives great, and I am encouraged by my own personal financial discipline the longer I hang on to it.
My daughter drives an Elantra we bought from a relative in Chicago. It has a rusted frame. In its new Alabama home, the Elantra's rust stopped getting worse, and it runs great.
My other daughter has a 2012 Camry that I drove first, then my three kids before her. It has many dents and three types of screws & bolts holding the front and rear bumper together. The engine runs great and will likely work well for my last two kids coming up behind her.
None of my kids wanted the minivan; not even my son with a serious girlfriend (thank God).
I rent from TURO when I need a truck or van for hunting or vacation. I save on fuel with a minivan versus a truck since I drive a decent amount for work.
Bottom line: the savings I achieve from maintaining and repairing my ugly-looking, older, but 'paid-for' cars is much greater than the frothy margins spent on new or newer model replacement vehicles. With the extra savings, I can spend more on retirement savings and elk tags.
Irrelevant
Well-known member
Even better, here is what chat came up with in under 30 sec.
docs.google.com
truck_evaluation_extended.xlsx
Nick87
Well-known member
If that's the case I'll make money trading for a newer used truck if im reading it right.Even better, here is what chat came up with in under 30 sec.
truck_evaluation_extended.xlsx
