Starting reloading - what to get next?

Darkside said:
Nice. There's nothing you can't Hunt with what you have, including out to 1000yd Targets. I have 308 in RCBS and Lee if your interested, I forgot to mention Lee earlier, all dies have pro/ con, I used Lee for a long time before I switched to Redding. They worked very well for me, but I got into building Wildcats, so I moved on to Bushing dies, bushing dies are not needed if you are not necking up / down.
Do you have a mentor close to you to help learn this stuff? If not I can try and help you with questions. But having someone to be with you is great help.
Hope this helps.
PM me if you have questions. 👍
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I use RCBS bushing dies (308, 7mm RM) to get the neck tension I want. Can vary this over four different sizes to really dial it in. Also suggest a micrometer based bullet seating die if you are looking to dial in your jump to the lands to optimize accuracy.

Second the digital calipers with a set of comparators (base to neck and base to ogive) for each caliber you plan to reload.

I really like the Precision Hardcore Gear powder funnels. They fit really well to their intended case. I also like the RCBS Automatic Bench Priming Tool. Much easier than a handheld primer.
 
27 years of reloading. I’ve apparently been missing out on some pretty cool tools
 
I guess I’m pretty basic in my reloading, I still use old RCBS dies, powder throw, and beam scale. I don’t anneal brass or do anything except trim it when absolutely necessary. And I still find it very easy to find accurate loads for every rifle.

@Forkyfinder, what bullets are you loading in the .308? I have a hard time looking away from my 165 ballistic tips but I did pick up some 155 ELDMs to try, if they perform how I want terminally it would be a pretty flat shooting load by .308 standards at 2850-2900.
 
MTLabrador said:
I guess I’m pretty basic in my reloading, I still use old RCBS dies, powder throw, and beam scale. I don’t anneal brass or do anything except trim it when absolutely necessary. And I still find it very easy to find accurate loads for every rifle.

@Forkyfinder, what bullets are you loading in the .308? I have a hard time looking away from my 165 ballistic tips but I did pick up some 155 ELDMs to try, if they perform how I want terminally it would be a pretty flat shooting load by .308 standards at 2850-2900.
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Open to suggestions. But a max, eldm, or tmk would be my picks based on what its shot extremely well.

But it just shot a 1 inch group with 10 shots of 175 smk too - but cant bring myself to hunt with them.
 
An old reloader once told me, a lot of people shouldn’t reload. I keep trying.
 
Forkyfinder said:
Open to suggestions. But a max, eldm, or tmk would be my picks based on what its shot extremely well.

But it just shot a 1 inch group with 10 shots of 175 smk too - but cant bring myself to hunt with them.
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I think you’ll find if it likes SMK it’ll also shoot TMK’s.

Something magical about ~44 gr of Varget and a 168 TMK/SMK.
 
Lee die sets are a great value, come with a reloading table for the caliber, usually have a final crimp die and are accurate enough for most people. I'm using a single stage press, balance beam and its one step at a time. I did buy a case prep unit that speeds things up. You cannot buy the most important thing. The ability to pay attention and stay on task, writing everything down and double checking a lot. Once you find something that works, buy in bulk. Don't believe everything you read, start low and be safe. Learn pressure signs early. You are going to spend more money now but its fun.
 
My Kimber 308 likes factory 168 SMKs as well. It really likes 165 Fed TBTs. I get 2805 fps and sub 0.6 MOA with my hand loads. Terminal performance is devastating. I’ve taken several elk and deer with the TBT. No concerns at all taking elk out to 400 yds or deer out to 600.
 
I’ve always gravitated to the better stuff and use a Forster coax press (have others), I use Forster micrometer seating dies, Redding bushing dies, and 21st century mandrel dies in the press. Good micrometers and tools help such as the the Wilson case gauges, etc. All require the knowledge of why you’re using it. The case cleaning, prep, etc not really specific to brand, just knowing why you’re doing each thing. I started filling shotgun shells in a MEC reloader in the early 80s but now only load a handful of centerfire hunting cartridges for best accuracy. I don’t especially enjoy reloading but sure appreciate the results.
 
Good deals on reloading set-ups are like free animals. They cost to feed.

I have a powder trickler. I prefer a spoon. On the one hand, this is very silly. On the other, I prefer a spoon.

Find a way to elevate your scale to eye level or put a camera on it. Then realize you really want an electronic scale. But you're not too sure about them so you check a charge with balance beam once in a while. Then wonder if you should get your balance beam tuned. Then realize it doesn't matter as long as it's the same amount wrong each time. There are a lot of ways to approach upgrading a scale. The point here is consistent measurement is probably where to focus your spending. Your solution will be the one you have confidence in.

That roll pad case lube would be best put back. One of the paste lubes you can rub on with fingers or a spray is so much easier and less likely to dent a shoulder. I like the Lee.

There's probably a way to convert that press to quick change bushings or similar.

You need a way to measure seating depth by cartridge base to ogive. Pick a measurement tool you have confidence in. Mine is a case with the neck slit by dremel paired with Sinclair ogive comparator, but there are many products available. What I have is a little fiddly, but it works well enough.

I have multiple brands of dies and no allegiance except I wouldn't waste spit on a Hornady product.

But, really, return it and buy ammo by the case.
 
Reloading is a repeatable process. You cannot be consistent without a written procedure of steps. Over time this will grow, shrink, used for bird cage etc but it will help keep you focused.

Wear safety glasses. Stop snickering and realize how many times stuff bounces off them.

No distractions, no food or drink while loading. Lead contamination is serious chit. TV's are nice but can be an aw chit.

Never have more than one powder or primer on bench to load the cartridge at hand.

Never take a load off the internet.

Powders are specific and not interchangeable. Eg H4350 vs IMR4350. No they are not so stop whining.

Maximum loads in a manual are based upon SAAMI pressure ratings of the firearm. NO SUCH THING MY RIFLE CAN TAKE IT UNTIL IT DOESN'T.

Learn to read pressure signs. Not every firearm can be loaded to the manual maximum load data. Every firearm is different and loads should not be used in different firearms unless worked up in them as well. Chambers are different for each firearm.

Read load manuals how to load. Pretty solid.

COMMON SENSE prevails in reloading. Trust your gut. Take your time and be deliberate.

If you think you are liking the process, buy the best you can since you will replace. Guaranteed.

Gizmos and gadgets =IMG_6936.gif
 
Get a good digital scale and a set of digital calipers, then a set of OAL comparator inserts. Scale doesn't have to be a thrower like a Chargemaster but just something simple to weigh each rifle charge.

If you want the best results, ditch the stashed brass and start with fresh, factory-made brass from the same batch. Nothing wrong with tinkering and learning the process with range pick-ups but you will not have the consistency, and therefore not the accuracy-- even with the same headstamp, if from very different lots-- that you will with brass from a single batch.
 
Sheltowee said:
Get a good digital scale and a set of digital calipers, then a set of OAL comparator inserts. Scale doesn't have to be a thrower like a Chargemaster but just something simple to weigh each rifle charge.

If you want the best results, ditch the stashed brass and start with fresh, factory-made brass from the same batch. Nothing wrong with tinkering and learning the process with range pick-ups but you will not have the consistency, and therefore not the accuracy-- even with the same headstamp, if from very different lots-- that you will with brass from a single batch.
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I still use my old Bonanza beam scale that I bought 50 years ago, AND with a plastic spoon. The bottom of a rubbing alcohol bottle makes a good powder dish as it contains an anti-static additive.
 
I buy Forster full length sizing dies for any new cartridge now and have them hone the necks to a dimension that reduces the amount the brass is getting worked when sized. When I started I bought redding type S full length bushing dies for everything because that's what the serious guys had.. But they dont size all the way to the neck/shoulder junction which can contribute to donuts forming in that area it seems consensus amongst dudes i believe is that standard FL sizers tend to result in less overall runout. Flexibility in bushing size for different brass would be nice but I can live with working the necks on thicker brass an extra thou or two.

For brass cleaning, frankford arsenal seems to make the best bang for buck tumblers that ive found. I have their wet stainless pin tumbler and a couple vibratory tumblers. I haven't wet tumbled in years and use Rice in the vibratory ones. If you are a freak about your brass being spotless, SS wet tumbling is the way. I like keeping more carbon in the case necks for more uniform bullet seating pressure. Some basis for cleaning with rice: https://www.primalrights.com/articles/clean-brass-with-rice

For Lubing brass, cheapest/easiest/best I've found is just homebrewing lanolin/alcohol, spraying on brass in a ziplock, and sizing. This seems to work even better than the hornady one-shot spray and it's cheaper and avoids the allegedly toxic crap in the one-shot spray and you can spray it inside without the aerosol. http://www.65guys.com/brass-case-resizing-lube/

Powder charging and brass trimming is where the $ can add up. I've had great luck with a RCBS 1500 chargemaster supreme but my autorickler on FX120 is quite a bit faster and throws within 1 kernel. However, throwing from a standard powder measure isn't going to hold most people/rifle back either, somewhat powder dependent.

Trimming sucks and trimming/chamfering/deburring in 3 steps sucks worse. I have a giraud bench trimmer that does it quick all in one step but it's expensive. I'd take a hard look at the new hornady trimmer that does the same if starting from scratch. That said, i haven't been doing it much trimming lately. I just sized a bunch of lapua 6.5 creed and 6.5x47 brass that has gone 4x firings with case mouths that haven't been touched and still dont need to be. A lot of cases might just need a first chamfer/debur initially but dont need frequent trimming if you're not sizing the crap out of it. The forster trimmer with 3 way cutters and drill adapter is a little more economical but by the time you buy all the different caliber 3 way heads you might wish you'd just gotten the new hornady trimmer IMO.

To speed up anything on the press, you want one of these. https://inlinefabrication.com/produ...u9BXkQIzx1Glls7wPooTqNXIas4AZT32Itl4t6myGNYh3
Handle each piece of brass once rather than twice for every press handle pull, makes things way faster.

Funnel with drop tube for cases where you're getting compressed loads to get the powder packed in tighter. I use this one and it works for all my 22-30 cal cases. https://www.forsterproducts.com/product/powder-funnel-with-long-drop-tube/
Otherwise, i have satern funnels for each caliber that work well and dont cost a fortune like some of the gucci ones.

Hornady OAL tool and case/bullet comparators are very useful.
 
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