Salmon, Bears, Super Cub, Packrafts, Glaciers and Whitewater

theat

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Just got home from a quick trip up to SE Alaska. The primary goal of the trip was to get flown into a remote river that starts at the terminus of a glacier and packraft out to the ocean. After a bunch of research which primarily consisted of talking to locals and the only local commercial super cub pilot, we decided on a river. According to the pilot with the only landing strip in the drainage and the local rafters we spoke with, the river had only been floated by locals up to this point. It was starting to sound like a pretty good adventure in the making!

Due to the highly volatile weather typical in that part of the world, we gave ourselves a handful of extra days up there to give us the best chance of getting a weather window for our flights up into the drainage. This gave us plenty of time to explore the area and forage for mushrooms and do a bunch of fishing.

While exploring the shoreline of a lake looking for fishing spots, I found this patch of Chicken of the Woods. I had never collected or eaten these before, but we collected enough to supplement a few meals. They turned out to be delicious!
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Where we were at, pink salmon were at the peak of their run. Between them and the dolly varden, our rods spent a lot of time looking like this.
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We kept only a handful of fish to eat while there since pinks don't freeze particularly well.
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We were not the only ones catching fish along the river.
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Since none of us had previously been on the ocean with a packraft and we knew we had a 4-5 mile crossing to end our big trip, we decided to spend a day hiking down a peninsula then paddling 4 miles back up the coast. Ended up spending a little while beachcombing in a couple of secluded bays. Mostly found fishing related trash.IMG_6789.jpg

We were planning to paddle the mile across to the glacier in the background, but despite how calm it looks in these pics, there were some pretty nasty looking whitecaps out in the middle. In retrospect we all thought that we should have made the crossing.
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Our pilot was concerned about the high winds, but finally decided that he would give it try to get us in to our desired destination. I thought it was going to be a no go when a big gust picked up one of the tundra tires and spun the plane about 20 degrees just after the first passenger squeezed onboard. Thankfully, he decided to give it a go and the long process of getting us in one by one began. After the first two made it in safely, we pulled the cub back into the hanger for a couple hours to let the wind die down. I caught the last flight in for the day. You can get an idea of how windy it was by looking at the trees and brush laying over in front of the prop in the first pic.

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The mouth of the river we planned to float is on the left and part of the canal we had to paddle across back to town.
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I knew that we were going to be dealing with a highly channelized river, but it looked pretty daunting from the air.
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Our first campsite was the small white beach on the right side of the lake. Since 1986 the glacier on the far side of the lake had receded over 4km and the lake as well as the huge rock and gravel bar that we landed on was far underneath the ice.
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About to touch down.
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The wind delays didn't give us much time that evening, but we hurriedly setup camp and inflated our rafts for the 2.5 mile paddle across the lake to the base of the glacier.
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Just before launching our boats, a rainbow appeared as a good omen for our adventure!
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To get to the main glacier we first had to find a way through a field of icebergs.
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This hole in the ice was pretty impressive. That was also where the majority of the glacial melt seemed to be flowing out from under the ice. It was coming out pretty quick and created some strange hydraulics.
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There wasn't a convenient source of clear water, so we ended up melting glacial ice for our drinking and cooking water. I wonder when that water was last in liquid form? It tasted pretty good!!

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We woke up the next morning to a rare beautiful sunny day.

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We knew from my research as well as the scouting we did on the flights in, that there was a long significant rapid at the outlet of the lake. Our camp was about 3/4 of a mile away from it, but it still sounded pretty ominous while we were laying in our tents that night. Regardless, we were excited to hit the river!

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Planning our lines through the first relatively easy part of the rapid.
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This part was a bit sketchy with several large holes that we had heard almost killed a local packrafter on a previous trip. I really didn't want to go for a long rough swim in that ice cold water.
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Some decided to portage and some decided to send it. Thankfully we all made it down unscathed.
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The rest of the river was pretty easy going as long as we picked the best of many channels.
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Our last night of the trip was spent near the mouth of the river.
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We knew that with a full moon the tide was going to be high. The majority of the tidal flat was either swampy or covered in very tall grass so we decided to take a risk and set up camp on the highest bit of sand we could find. The tide was going to peak at about 2am so we set an alarm for 1:30 to have a look. We also stomped out a spot in the grass behind camp just incase we needed to make a quick retreat. Its a good thing we prepared for the worst as we would have woken up with wet tents and sleeping bags if we hadn't. The tide came in over a mile and up 19'. Just enough to cover our campsite. This following pic was taken just as we decided to move our tents back into the grass.
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Heck of an adventure Travis! Looks amazing, great pics! You sure know how to live!
 
We woke up early the next morning with the hope of making our 5 mile ocean crossing before the afternoon winds picked up. There was a porcupine way out on the beach where we inflated our rafts that gave me a couple good poses for pics.

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Ended up being a beautiful day and the crossing was easy.

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This guy greeted us on the other side.

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To celebrate a successful trip we made a stop at the local distillery.
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My friends dad runs a fishing tender up there and happened to have pulled his crab and shrimp pots on the way back to the harbor that afternoon. Luckily for us they had two king crabs and enough shrimp to fill us up with plenty to spare. The neighboring boat even brought over some barbecued black cod for an appetizer. Doesn't get much better than eating fresh seafood right on the deck of the boat that caught it that same day!
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Heck of an adventure! Great photos and thanks for sharing! Lot's of blue sky which isn't the norm for SE Alaska from my experience.
 
Awesome trip man. Great pics.
My wife already tells me we are coming back up next year again. She is hooked
I think it will be an every summer thing now.
 
Sitka Gear Turkey Tool Belt

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