Remington 700 bolt hard to push down
- Thread starter nhenry
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p_ham
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How do your lugs look?
The bolt shroud could have a bur or boogers threads too.
The bolt shroud could have a bur or boogers threads too.
Looks normal to me but I’m no smith
p_ham
Well-known member
Lugs look ok, factory trigger? How does it close when you hold the trigger down?
I would bet it's an issue with the bolt shroud/ sear.
Sometimes lubing up the cocking cam helps a bit.
I would bet it's an issue with the bolt shroud/ sear.
Sometimes lubing up the cocking cam helps a bit.
D
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This deserves a Beavis and Butthead laugh.
Farmerj
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Mark the back (bearing side ) of the lugs with some kind of a marker. It will wear off giving you an indication of what the contact points are.
I’d also get a set of headspace gauges and check that as well.
It’s either going to be in the lug contact or interference with the barrel to bolt face though since you aren’t using a case.
I’d also get a set of headspace gauges and check that as well.
It’s either going to be in the lug contact or interference with the barrel to bolt face though since you aren’t using a case.
It did that with the old barrel too and headspace is precise on both. I’ll do the marker thing
BAKPAKR
Well-known member
Have you tried pulling the firing pin assembly and then working the bolt without it? That should help you narrow down the source of the problem between some type of interference with the lugs vs something going on with the cocking piece or spring.
Factory trigger, gonna replace it soon. I’ll try lubing the piece
Big Slick
Well-known member
My 700 had a issue with closing. My gun guy shortened the front screw that holds the stock on the action. The problem is no more.
Sadly it does it without the barrel or stock attached
MThuntr
Well-known member
scope bases mounted to it? Try removing them. The front screws may be too long. I've had that happen with Talley rings/bases when not paying attention. EDIT: I see you may have barrel and stock off already so scope bases may not be there either.
Next would be to take permanent marker to see where it's swiping with options of lapping or taking to gunsmith to trim things up (gonna be a few hundred $ to basically blueprint and time)
Next would be to take permanent marker to see where it's swiping with options of lapping or taking to gunsmith to trim things up (gonna be a few hundred $ to basically blueprint and time)
It does it without anything attached to it. I feel like it's a lug issue as it's easier to push down if I push the bolt in further/harder.
antelopedundee
Well-known member
Nice to see that you're a portsider.
Any chance that the bolt handle could be too far forward? Ideally the gap between the front of the handle and action should be about 0.005 when the action is closed. If you suspect the lugs put some lapping compound on the rear surfaces and work the action. That should solve the problem if it's the lugs. Might be a PITA trying to clean it out afterwards.
Any chance that the bolt handle could be too far forward? Ideally the gap between the front of the handle and action should be about 0.005 when the action is closed. If you suspect the lugs put some lapping compound on the rear surfaces and work the action. That should solve the problem if it's the lugs. Might be a PITA trying to clean it out afterwards.
I'll have to check when I get home. I was fairly certain everything was timed properly as the whole receiver is blueprinted, but I'll make sure.Nice to see that you're a portsider.
Any chance that the bolt handle could be too far forward? Ideally the gap between the front of the handle and action should be about 0.005 when the action is closed. If you suspect the lugs put some lapping compound on the rear surfaces and work the action. That should solve the problem if it's the lugs. Might be a PITA trying to clean it out afterwards.
OntarioHunter
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Yes, find a set of "go, no go" headspace gauges. You might have to order them from Brownells or Midway but they are usually not very expensive. Anyone can operate them. Simply insert and close the bolt. If the headspace is wrong, back to the factory for a fix. Remington's responsibility.
Edit: Looks like you gauged it already. I agree with above post re may be some interference caused by trigger. Have you tried working the bolt without cocking piece? I had a problem with my Springfield's bolt closing when I switched to Timney trigger. This was the old style trigger design that used existing striker safety. They were a bugger to install correctly. Newer Timney models have trigger block safety. Anyway, instructions said modifying the trigger sear might be needed. As I recall I modified the striker instead. My gunsmith had given up on it.
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It's a custom and the headspacing is fine
OntarioHunter
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Yes. I see that. I was editing my post while you were writing this one. Have you tried closing it without cocking piece/firing pin?
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OntarioHunter
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Have you mentioned this issue to the person/outfit who did the "blueprint" work. Perhaps he/they like tolerances that are excessive (but harmless). Did you have an aftermarket barrel installed? Sorry, I don't even know if Remington offered it in 280 AI.
antelopedundee
Well-known member
I don't think that Remington ever offered model 700 rifles in .280AI therefore they would have no obligation to fix it. Once you customize all bets are off also.
One could remove the rear trigger pin and drop the trigger out of the way. As long as one is doing that mite as swell replace it. If twas me it would be a Jewell or TriggerTech. Even a factory trigger worked over by Neil Jones would be ok.
