New to bow hunting

[garerite]

Morning,
I was given a used PSE compound bow. The bow is about 7 years old. I can't pull it back without a lot of gruts and movement. How can I adjust the poundage? Thanks for any help
Gary

 

[Canoe]

Gary, the easy answer is to loosen the limb bolts (allen type bolts that go through the base of the limb into the riser) evenly about a half turn at a time until you can pull the bow back.

However the more appropriate answer would be: Go to the library and check out a few books on archery and modern archery equipment. Read them so that you can get familiar with the different parts and components on your bow, and a better understanding of how it is put together and how it works. You can also hang around your local archery pro shop and ask for pointers and advice.

 

[garerite]

Thank you for the responce, sounds easy to do. I don't believe we have a shop here in town, there was one in Stockton about 1/2 hour drive, I'll see if there still in business. I also got a Martin Fury but it needs to be camo'ed, any ideas of who does this work?
Thanks Gary

 

[A-con]

Camo it your self, spray paint.
Be careful looseing thoses limb bolts, if ya get too far out, the limbs will fall off.

 

[trophy_killer]

Garerite, check out Jerry's Archery in Stockton. That's where I got my bow all set up. There used to be an archery shop in Modesto too but I believe he closed down about 5 years ago.

 

[Pudge 96]

All good advice. I would also recomend you bring it to your local pro shop. If you do decide to loosen them yourself, start at the same point on both limbs and do the same amount of turns on the two. You you should have the same tension on both. Good luck with your new sport, it's a hoot, you'll be hooked before you know it.

 

[ELKCHSR]

There are a lot of great books at the library or book store to read thru, there is a lot of things about bow hunting that some of the bow bibles can answer for you and give you great pointers on other aspects of this great sport...

 

[BOHNTR]

All solid advice given so far. I just have one thing to add.....Have LOT's of fun!

BOHNTR )))------------->

 

[garerite]

Thank you for all the replies. I have successfully gotten the poundage down. That's kind of scarie to do the first time, all those cabels and pullies, backing those off I could see the limbs coming off and sticking in my forehead.
Now I need to find a place to shoot close to home. I found Jerry's Archery in Stockton in the phone book, hope there still in business, I'll give them call.
Thanks again for the help
Gary

 

[iminrut]

By all means, when you get the first chance, take that bow in and have it gone through for mainenances sake.

The reason I say this, is if you plan on hunting with this bow...nothing will ruin a hunt (and your ambition to bowhunt) quicker than a busted outing due to a "squeek" or "chirp" while drawing back to full draw.........make sure everything is in good shape, cleaned and lubed and ready to go.......this along with lots of practice, will hopefully insure some successful hunts in the future....

And while at that pro-shop, have them adjust that draw weight and draw length perfectly for you.......it shouldn't cost you much, and most reputable shops will do all of this free of charge to retain your business in the future.

Now a good rule of thumb for you correct draw length is to have someone with a tape measure, measure your wingspan from finger tip to fingertip........meaning lean up against a wall, hold your arms straight out on each side, palms out......then take that total and subtract 15, then take that remainder and divide by 2.......example:

My widest wingspan fingertip to fingertip is 71".........71-15=56.......56/2=28.........now 28" is my draw length almost on the nose........it's a great starting point for any new archer.

Good luck and be sure to ask any questions along the way........by the way....carbon arrows for a beginner(and even us veterans love them D) )......they may be a little more expensive, but they're gonna save you in the long run as they aren't as likely to bend etc..from misses as you learn your shooting abilities......I suggest a good hearty arrow like a Goldtip 55/75 or Beman Hunter ICS.

And oh yea....wax that string and cable after every shooting session.....can't express that enough

 

[tnctcb]

i agree with the carbon arrow thing. if you miss and lose the arrow nothing will help but if you hit the ground, a rock a stump or whatever just flex it a bit to make sure it didnt crack( you can hear it) then shoot it again. i shoot goldtip 55/75 but my kid shoots the bass pro shops , redhead carbons. they arent much more than a decent set of aluminum. and just in case no one mentioned it,NEVER SHOOT WOOD OR FIBERGLASS ARROWS IN A COMPOUND BOW. they can splinter and do serious injury.

 

[garerite]

I'm glad iminarut and tnctcb brought up the arrow issue. I have arrows. 12 are Aluminum 2413 superlite easton's and the other 12 are superlite a/c/c seris dr. 3-60/340. The acc are alot skinner. The acc don't fit real well on the arrow rest. I'll throw everything in the truck and take to a pro shop soon.

Thanks Gary

 

[Tom]

Here's a really high tech. arrow chart.

http://www.martinarchery.com/easton/hunteast.html

The arrow has to match your bow weight, to perform as best it can.