Is your mall crawler ready to go?

not posturing myself as an expert. but offroad shocks shouldn't really be categorized as smooth, i'd argue.

my 5100s are nonetheless much better than the the original ranchos that came on the titan.

i'm probably ready for an upgrade though.

i also need a new front skid plate.... but on the flip side, it was pretty cool to see that thing do it's job perfectly, and also not cool.
Not necessarily true. You can always spend more to get a shock that does multiple things well. The lower priced ones are typically digressive valving.

You usually end up with a shock that is 1) harsh at low speed but can absorb bigger hits and feels sportier or
2) softer at low speeds but cannot absorb bigger hits and feels floaty.

Or, you can drop a lot of coin and they do great in multiple areas.
 
At least it happened before season started, but I heard a noise coming from the front and the dang hub bearing was going out, then while under there, I checked the ball joints and sure enough, loose, along with both tie rod ends...so I tore it apart and replacing all of the junk with new junk and hopefully get an alignment done next week.
View attachment 383063
What year is your XJ? I used to have one and have definitely been looking for one for my next vehicle.
 
It sounds like the K03's have lost people's interest...why?

this is my last summer with those and will be looking for replacements in the spring.
I’m finishing up a set of KO3’s right now.

I haven’t been impressed with how they’ve worn over time, haven’t had anywhere near the puncture resistance I’ve had with previous KO2 sets, and had one randomly let go on the road.

IMG_4755.jpeg

I had great results with two previous sets of KO2, one on my Tundra that went a legit 50k miles, and a second on a 3/4T Ram Cummins that also went 45k.

This set of KO3 will be lucky to break 35k and I’m pretty OCD about rotating them.
 
What year is your XJ? I used to have one and have definitely been looking for one for my next vehicle.
It's a 1995, has the country package and it sits on a 6" lift, still have to do the slip yoke eliminator kit on it and eventually regear and bigger tires.
 
IMG_9481.jpeg
It’s been a long road but I now have an offroad rig and a upscale rig. The new one is good for the @SwaggyD type of hunts where we don’t leave graded roads! 😉 The old girl has a new to her but just broken in engine, tranny, transfer case, emissions, year old suspension all the way around and year old lower control arms. Wife’s uncle got t boned in the winter in his babied 100k 07 to get all the non suspension parts. It had never towed a trailer, gone off road, missed an oil change, or ridden hard and put away wet.
 
I’m finishing up a set of KO3’s right now.

I haven’t been impressed with how they’ve worn over time, haven’t had anywhere near the puncture resistance I’ve had with previous KO2 sets, and had one randomly let go on the road.

View attachment 383877

I had great results with two previous sets of KO2, one on my Tundra that went a legit 50k miles, and a second on a 3/4T Ram Cummins that also went 45k.

This set of KO3 will be lucky to break 35k and I’m pretty OCD about rotating them.
I'm not going to lie, I feel like I usually only get 20k on a set of tires. Doesn't matter the brand/model. But it's hard to say as I don't keep good records going summer to winter sets.
 
I'm not going to lie, I feel like I usually only get 20k on a set of tires. Doesn't matter the brand/model. But it's hard to say as I don't keep good records going summer to winter sets.
Weird. I got 45k on my Duratracs and am at 40k on the Toyos. They could run another 5-10k but I don’t want to go through winter on sketchy tires.
 
Priced tires and an alignment today🥲. I think I’m putting those off a month or so until after an overtime check. I need to check with a different tire shop as it seems they may be cheaper than the local Les Schwab
 

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