Ollin Magnetic Digiscoping System

Felt recoil

old man

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Can anyone tell me how to perceive felt recoil.? Don't know if that is the wright way to ask. But have a rugger 77 in 308 cal. and a 300wm in a Sako. which is 2lbs heavier than the 77 and felt recoil is less than half the 308. what I want to know is if I get a Tika in 300wsm will the felt recoil be more or less than the 308. ?
 
The two major factors are cartridge and rifle weight, with bullet weight being a close third. Additionally, stock shape is a factor too. This chart does a good job of summarizing felt recoil with rifle weights, bullets and velocity layed out. If the Tikka you are looking at is a T3, it will probably be your heaviest recoiling rifle due to it being so light.

http://www.chuckhawks.com/recoil_table.htm
 
THere is a formula for calculating free recoil. It's made up of two major components. Impact force/weight and imapct velocity. THat is why it is expressed in terms of ft. lbs. seconds. you can find it on the internet..

E_{tgu} = 0.5 \cdot [\tfrac {(m_p \cdot v_p) + (m_c \cdot v_c)} { 1000 }]^2 / m_{gu}
Etgu is the translational kinetic energy of the small arm as expressed by the joule (J).

mgu is the weight of the small arm expressed in kilograms (kg).

mp is the weight of the projectile expressed in grams (g).

mc is the weight of the powder charge expressed in grams (g).

vgu is the velocity of the small arm expressed in meters per second (m/s).

vp is the velocity of the projectile expressed in meters per second (m/s).

vc is the velocity of the powder charge expressed in meters per second (m/s).

1000 is the conversion factor to set the equation equal to kilograms.
 
What kind of recoiil pads are you talking? The factory pads on a lot of guns suck. Can't compare apples to apples if pads are different.
 
It's kind of strange how this works. My brother bought a Weatherby Vangard in .308 for his wife and when I shot it it seemed like it kicked harder than my 7MM mag. I don't remember whay kind of recoil pad was on it.
 
felt recoil

all riffles have standard pads. but the 308 has a sharp rap as the 300 has a push.
 
Willing to bet the stock pad on the Sako is nicer than the Ruger. A National Geographic magazine probably has better recoil absorption than a stock Ruger pad.
 
this is true. But if I put a good pad on the tikka does that mean I could bring felt recoil down to or lower than the rugger?
 
I bet most shooters couldn't tell the difference in recoil concerning bullet weight. Only way to percieve recoil with a certain rifle/cartridge combo is to fire it. mtmuley
 
I've had a similar experience. Last year I purchased a Tikka T3 Lite in 308. The gun had excellent accuracy with factory ammo, but the recoil was a beast. I even bought a new gunstock from Boyds with a limbsaver recoil pad, but that didn't tame it. What I learned was that "light" guns were not worth it for me. I would rather carry an extra pound or two in the field in order to have a gun that doesn't beat me up and produce a consistent firing flinch.
 
I have 2 T3's. A stainless lite in 300win mag and a stainless superlight 06. Both have sims limbsaver pads installed. The 06 is very tolerable and a super shooter. Haven't really got to see what the 300 will do as for accuracy but the recoil is on the top end of what I consider tolerable for range work. So yeah, they kick. But, they both have excellent triggers out of the box and the 06 is the most accurate rifle Ive ever owned.
 

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I don't know the math on it, but I've shot enough of the Tikkas to know there's no way I'd want one in a magnum. Even the .270s I've shot in that rifle kicked like mules.
 
A good wearable recoil pad for range work is a must. Actual hunting shots most guys don't hear of feel a thing by some brain magic that goes on.
 
Stock design, material and how well it fits you have a lot to do with "perceived" reecoil.
Too many factors to predict how any gun might recoil.
 
My T3 in 270 with a limbsaver will kick the crap out of you, but its so dead nuts reliably accurate I don't mind it. My 300win in a Ruger mk2 with a limbsaver, which is significantly heavier, loaded to the max, is worse. Not sure I would want a mag T3.
 
In my experience a well designed stock will reduce felt recoil more than anything. And a thicker, softer, recoil pad might help but probably not much.

For example, I have a Savage 308win that seems to kick like a karate master. It has a new B&C stock with a thick Pachmyer recoil pad which is much better than the factory stock, but it still kicks hard, I feel it in the cheek more than anything. I also have a Steyr in 308win, with a factory stock and hard rubber recoil pad, it is a tad heavier than the Savage but the felt recoil is very manageable. The difference, as relates to recoil, is a well designed stock on the Steyr.
 
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I do prefer a Pachmeyer Decelerator. My only experience with the Sims is on the Tikka that I eventually replaced the stock on. It was a really early Sims pad, and it almost felt too soft, to where it felt like it bottomed out when firing.
 
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I like Pachmayr Decelerators as well.

But, for bench work, I use a P.A.S.T. recoil shield. It tames recoil in my big boomers and guns with stocks designed to beat up the rifleman on the back end. Well worth the $20 bucks or so.

Recoil isn't a consideration in the field, just from the bench.
 
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