Enclosed Trailer for hunting questions!

MNElkNut

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I had a 7X16 enclosed trailer and used it to haul stuff as well as a place to sleep on some western hunts. I sold it because I wanted a few options like a ramp door in back and a RV type door latch on the side door.

So the process has begun to buy a new one. However, I have discovered there are a ton of different manufacturers and it is kinda tough to tell which ones build quality trailers using Al Gore's internet and there are very limited options locally to kick tires. I have decided to go steel and are looking to spend $7,000 to $8,000. I want it insulated and also torsion axles. It has to be high enough for a Polaris Ranger. I am thinking about going 8.5 feet wide as well. I want to have an electrical hookup on the outside that has an outlet on the inside for a generator/electric heater.

My questions are this: what manufacturers make quality trailers? Which ones don't? What other options should I be considering? What about your trailer should I consider for mine? Any other advice would be appreciated!
 
This is not an answer to your questions, but a question back: Is there a reason you want to do this vs buying a travel trailer of some type?

I ask, because I set out to do the same thing and found it was not worth the money. You could strip out an old trailer and remodel for far cheaper. The trailers are made differently. A few others on here have talked about doing this as well. I don't know where they ended up. Unless you have a very specific reason to do it, I would not. You can find 5 year old 15 ft trailers for less money, ready to go.
 
Good question. The answer is because the trailer gets used for other stuff the rest of the year. It is not just a hunting trailer but has a lot of other uses. It has to be able to haul a Ranger and/or ATV and gear for a bunch of guys. then we throw the cots down and sleep in it.
 
I have a Haulmark which is one of the better cargo trailers. I actually bought mine with all the things I needed installed by someone else

Front counter with cabinets with sink ( pump style)
Small removable coffee table that connects to the floor.
Flip down double bed that folds flat against wall. Takes regular mattress
Another single bed on tracks in the back ( 8' span) that raises and lowers to make another bed. Up when not in use and drive quad under.
110v power via converter
Florescent lighting
other cabinets hung on wall
rubber interlock matting ( 1/2" thick) on floor
floor and wall anchors to strap items to

I have used it several times for hunting, hauling quads. The rest of time its just a regular cargo trailer for whatever you need.

It arguably my best purchase. I bought it on Craigs list for $8500.00 a few years back. We sold out toy hauler as it was really feasible to use a s cargo trailer when needed. Plus I can pull my Cargo with my F150, so I sold my 2500 which i needed for my toy hauler.
 
Good question. The answer is because the trailer gets used for other stuff the rest of the year. It is not just a hunting trailer but has a lot of other uses. It has to be able to haul a Ranger and/or ATV and gear for a bunch of guys. then we throw the cots down and sleep in it.

Those other uses is why I built mine. I followed the posts by Colorado Cowboy on his trailer build. Another reason for getting a cargo trailer with a rear ramp and extra height is that if you converted an old pull behind camper, it'd be a tight squeeze getting that Polaris Ranger through that side door....lol
 
I know you said steel but check out R&R trailers in Three Rivers, MI. They custom make each aluminum trailer to order, the prices are good and the workmanship is great. Your description is what I built.

Things to think about, get 110 plugs spaced eavenly on each inside wall with a small breaker panel and a external RV hook up.

A cot side by side takes up a lot of room and is a PIA to keep taking down or to walk around. Better off with bunks or spend the money and get the tilt out bunks to save the room inside in bad weather.

Get a Vnose but Leave enough room outside to mount a propane tank.

By custom ordering one you can get a in floor spare tire compartment. Get 2 or 3 built in, one for a tire and the others for water tanks so they don’t get damaged on a two track.

Get the heavier axles, bigger heavier bearings do better on long trips. It’s easy to burn up a 3500lb axle especially if you gonna put a side by side in it.

Buy spare bearings with the trailer from the start. Nothing worse than breaking down in the middle of nowhere on Sunday at 4.

Hope that helps.
 
I just did a trailer this summer. I went with a Aluma brand all aluminum dual axle, 16' x 7'. Rear ramp door and a side door. I installed a roof vent and a small window in the side. I put in a 20,000 BTU 12 volt LP heater on the floor, put a 1" pipe thru the side and use a couple 30 lb lp tanks to heat it, no room on the front hitch for them, wish there was. I put on fold up bed on the side and one across the back that is split and folds up to the sides. Put in some LED lights, insulated the walls and ceiling. Put down a old chunk of carpet on the floor and went on 3 hunting trips. One with 2 4 wheelers in and the other 2 nothing. Takes quit a bit to heat when cold but if in the sun it warms up on its own. Probably will install another side window for when it's warm out. Also am thinking about insulating the floor some more, just not sure with what yet. Was plenty of room for the two of us but would really be to small for 3. We did not cook inside. I put some plastic stack together shelving and used a ratchet strap to secure it to the wall, not sure if I want to leave it in permanently or not, two 4 wheelers really fill it up. I used ratchet straps to secure the spare and LP tanks to the floor while traveling. All in all it works very good and am pleased with it. Make sure to take some blocking with you to help level it out in your hunting spot. An awning on the side would be awesome to have!!
 
I think its a good dual purpose way to go. You can probably watch some YouTube videos or Pintinterest. I work on the road part-time and do residential construction while at home. I’m planning to convert a 24-ft gooseneck stock trailer into a on-road living and hunting set-up. The one I’m looking at can be bought for 6,000 used, and has a small enclosed tack/living area. I will expand the living area, and still have road for a utv in the rear. I will probably use a wood stove for heat. I think 2 by framing and blue foam/spray foam will work for roof/wall panels. I will use a Miller welder for dc power. Let us know how it goes for you. Preston
 
A friend of mine got one from Complete Trailer out of Colorado. He is happy with it and it holds his Ranger Crew. He got his with beds that fold out the side.
 
if your interested,I have a 2010 carson 16ftx 8 1/2 ft toyhauler "fx" for sale in the ball park your talkin,,it will fit a side by side,fully self contained,fiberglass sides,water tanks,heater ,stove ect,,pm me if your interested,,im on the west coast so no rust here.
 
trailer1.jpg
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I’m very happy with mine. Used mostly for a camping trailer but had the drop down kit added for ability to use for ice fishing. Had to go with 12” extra height for my Honda pioneer to fit. Tows great. It is all aluminum but they offer steel also. Installed a removable bunk system that lofts above the Honda for transport.
Purchased trailer and had custom stuff done by sheehan trailers in Watertown SD.

Sorry for the sideways pic, can’t figure out how to turn it.
 
I was going through this same search a few years back. I looked at many trailers from CL and ones I saw for sale on the side of the road. A lot of trailer names come from just a handful of manufactures and just change branding or they make really good copies. Just write down everything you need and the cost to add or retrofit items on an existing unit. Your not likely to find exactly what your looking for or at least I only came close a few times but the price was too high on those. Seemed like the ones that were further from what I wanted were more likely to end up in my price range after I added the items I wanted. Meaning once people customize they going to charge more than their worth, but not always. I ended up with a toy hauler after a lot of looking. Don't forget to check the brakes as I found more than one with weak brakes that I would have had to replace. I got to be friends with a guy at campout as I was there so much and he would do free inspections for me but I did a bit of flat bed trailer trading with him prior to that. Good luck in your search.
 
Thanks for some great ideas. I was thinking 2 - 3500 pound axles would be plenty. Can anybody comment on good or bad brands?
 
Thanks for some great ideas. I was thinking 2 - 3500 pound axles would be plenty. Can anybody comment on good or bad brands?

DONT do it. Go with the 5500 lb axles. It’s not about the weight capacity as much as it is the size of the bearings in the hub. Going out west on a 5000 mile round trip at around 3000 total weight destroyed the axle beyond repair. Upgraded to the the 5500lb axle and haven’t had a issue since.
 
I have a 27' wedge nose, that I built into a Toy hauler, works great. I bought it at R&R Trailers in Three Rivers Michigan, it is a all aluminum frame, and only weighs 2900 lbs, so it pulls easy too.IMG_1062.jpg, IMG_1116.jpg IMG_1121.jpg
 
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