Clutch replacement

Bhoesl

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 11, 2016
Messages
212
Location
Lewistown MT
1990 Chevy 2500.
Pretty sure my throw out bearing is going out. I plan to replace the whole clutch while I have everything tore apart anyway. Anybody replaced a clutch on one of these trucks before? Any advice, things to watch out for, etc? I do pretty much all my own work but never replaced a clutch before.
Thanks!
 
2wd or 4wd? The 2wd job is pretty straightforward, the 4wd job is a major PITA. I would try to find a good mechanic that you trust to do the job. JMO.
 
Don't forget to replace the pilot bearing also and have the flywheel machined by a competent shop. If it is a 4x4, replace the tcase input seal while you are there. Double check the clutch disc is installed correctly, one side is deeper than the other and usually faces the pressure plate.
 
Yes, it is 4x4. Unfortunately having a mechanic do it isn't something I can afford right now.
Good call on the transfer case seal. Should I consider doing the rear main as well?
I was hoping the flywheel would be fine, clutch hasn't been slipping or anything like that, pretty sure its just the throwout bearing.
Should flywheel still be machined even if there isn't any damage to it?
Thanks!
 
Yes, it is 4x4. Unfortunately having a mechanic do it isn't something I can afford right now.
Good call on the transfer case seal. Should I consider doing the rear main as well?
I was hoping the flywheel would be fine, clutch hasn't been slipping or anything like that, pretty sure its just the throwout bearing.
Should flywheel still be machined even if there isn't any damage to it?
Thanks!
Yes , always , IMO . Might look for a kit where the flywheel is included, as opposed to waiting for the machine shop
 
If there are no visible hard spots in the flywheel, highly doubtful, can buff up with a scotchbrite pad. Check the rear main for visible leaks. Can't remember when Chevy switched to one-piece seals, may be a two piece, in that case it is of no benefit to change it when the trans is out. Hopefully you have a concrete floor on which you can do the work. You will need to rent or procure a solid tranny jack, those transmissions are heavy. What engine does it have?
 
Engine is a 350. I believe 1990 is still the 1-piece rear main seal.
Yes, I have access to a shop at work with concrete floor. Haven’t found anywhere to rent a tranny jack yet. We do have a pallet jack that I was hoping might work, seems like it will reach under the truck far enough if I can rig up something across the forks for the trans to sit on.
 
All the advice you have gotten here is good. Follow it. If you try and shortcut anything you will have experience on how to do it again next week. Have the flywheel surfaced by a machine shop. I've seen tons of flywheels that look beautiful except for the warp. Don't cheap out on the parts or you'll be gaining even more experience. Stay away from the Chinese junk. Using a pallet jack is asking for trouble. You need to support the back of the engine to maintain the angle to EASILY slip the tranny/ transfer case in and out without dumping the throw out into the bell housing. It's not a hard job but it's a big job that will take you the better part of a day plus machine shop time to surface the flywheel. Working off the ground is a pain in the ass.
 
The pilot bearing is easily pulled out with a small slide hammer. And when you're putting everything back together make sure you wear nitrile gloves and degrease every surface of the flywheel clutch disk and the pressure plate.
 
The pilot bearing is easily pulled out with a small slide hammer. And when you're putting everything back together make sure you wear nitrile gloves and degrease every surface of the flywheel clutch disk and the pressure plate.
Filling the recess in the end of the crank with grease and smacking it with the appropriate size bolt/ stick/clutch alignment tool is easier
 
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