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Broadhead tuning question

djlax

Member
Joined
May 21, 2018
Messages
55
Location
TN
While Broadhead tuning my bow I've max'd out my sight for right adjustment. My field points are grouping about 3" right of center, but my broadheads are hitting center. My QAD rest measurements aren't extreme, I'm one tick off center on lateral adjustment. I'm not seeing or hearing any evidence of fletching impact. Any ideas why I'm out of room on right adjustment? (A Rocky Mountain Driver single pin, Mathews Triax). Thanks, Jason
 
I ran into the same issue. One thing I was able to do with my Spott Hog was adjust how the pinguard (housing with the pins) connects to the bracket on the bow. I was able to remove the pinguard and put it on the other side of the bracket and that helped.
 
I have to admit this solution worked... and I feel like a moron for not seeing it on my own. But I was able to move my pin housing to the outboard bracket and this gives me plenty of room. Thanks!
 
This. Check hand torque before you screw with anything else. Come to full
draw and have someone look at your string coming off the cams. Should be straight.
Thanks for the tip. My string/cables are 3 years old and it's probably time for a tune up, but I have a bear hunt coming up in 2 weeks. I went 'Full Ashby" with a 650 grain set up with single bevel broadheads and I finally got them flying consistent, so I'm hesitant to change anything else until after this hunt. After making the sight correction recommended by roravetz, I'm laying the field points and broadheads together now. In fact, the way the housing is mounted now looks more correct than the way I previously had it - and it has reasonable correction available left and right. I think I may have assembled the sight incorrectly a few years ago... and just got by with it. Thanks for the quick responses and help with this, I'm back in business! -Jason
 
Thanks for the tip. My string/cables are 3 years old and it's probably time for a tune up, but I have a bear hunt coming up in 2 weeks. I went 'Full Ashby" with a 650 grain set up with single bevel broadheads and I finally got them flying consistent, so I'm hesitant to change anything else until after this hunt. After making the sight correction recommended by roravetz, I'm laying the field points and broadheads together now. In fact, the way the housing is mounted now looks more correct than the way I previously had it - and it has reasonable correction available left and right. I think I may have assembled the sight incorrectly a few years ago... and just got by with it. Thanks for the quick responses and help with this, I'm back in business! -Jason
Cool glad that worked. It took me awhile to figure it out on mine to.
 
Not sure how changing your sight made BH/FP group together, it shouldn't effect it unless there was fletch contact somehow. BH/FP not hitting together implies a tuning issue you can fix with the rest adjustments mentioned above. What range wehre you shooting?
 
are you spin testing your broadheads? I have found that i dont need to ever change anything on my bow in regards to field points and broadheads impact areas. Granted im using broadheads that are entirely too expensive, and they spin true so there is no wobble and my bow is well tuned. Only time I see differences is beyond 60 yards with a broadhead that has a lot of cutting surface. Also not shooting a bow that gets anywhere close to 280fps, which i think has a significant impact. My bows are anywhere between 246 to 252 fps
 
I thought I might add another blunder I recently worked through. I switched over to a Nock 2 It release over the summer, around the same time I started experimenting with heavier arrows and Grizzly Stik / Iron Will single bevel broadheads. After working through the problem described above, I was grouping BH & FP at 30 & 40 yds, but when I moved to 50 yds my BH were trending left again. I had my QAD rest offset right to the point where my fletchings are SUPER close to contact and I can't really move any more - this was driving me nuts. I found an article that mentioned using this type of release without adding a longer D loop can twist the string and cause accuracy issues... I pulled out my old wrist style release and discovered this is exactly what was going on. My form with the new release was causing all of it.

I've got my rest corrected and adjusted my sight very slightly and now consistent BH & FP out to 50 yds. I'm just going to shoot my old release until I get a longer D loop.
 
Not sure how changing your sight made BH/FP group together, it shouldn't effect it unless there was fletch contact somehow. BH/FP not hitting together implies a tuning issue you can fix with the rest adjustments mentioned above. What range wehre you shooting?
And if there were fetching contact it should have been with both broadleads and field points. Either way, if they're both hitting in the same place now I guess it's solved. Only thing I can figure is the grip was changed because of a mental thing when shooting the broadheads. I do this when I first start shooting broadheads pre season sometimes, nervous about somehow cutting the bejeesus out of my hand I guess.
 
I changed the QAD rest position for BH/FP grouping. The Nock 2 It release was torquing my string, once I shot with my old style release (wrist style that swivels) I realized I was creating the problem using the Nock 2 It with a short D-Loop. After moving the rest and shooting with my old release, I did have to tweak the sight very slightly for overall grouping. I guess my point was, if you buy a fixed style thumb release, you may want to use a larger D-loop to avoid this.
 

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