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Archery for idiot - help needed

Aussie_hunter_JD

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Joined
Jul 26, 2016
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I've always loved archery, I bought my first compound in 2012 and back then it wasn't as big as it is now in Australia. The downside to that was that I didn't know any bow hunters to help me out. I hunted a fair bit with it, eventually upgrading to an Elite Impulse 34 a few years ago. Even at 70lb it's very nice to shoot so I can't see myself changing bows.

My problem is that because I never got much help I have obviously got myself into bad habits and still don't really know a lot about it. Pretty sure I have the right draw length but my posture shooting, tuning ability and general understanding leaves a lot to be desired.

Aside from that I don't know much about the equipment, i use a whisker biscuit which I've read is not ideal. Unsure about changing that as I hunt from the ground by stalking so having an arrow falling off a rest constantly doesn't appeal to me. I have a decent 5 pin sight which I'm happy with and shoot slick trick magnums which seem to be good also.

Arrows I have no clue about though, I tried a few aussie brands but they all hung around for a couple of years and then folded. Thinking of going a good american brand that's going to hang around. Any suggestions on a good arrow for elk sized game?

I'm also sick of refletching arrows all the time because my arrows are blowing through my diy foam target. Any suggestions for a target that can handle field points and broadheads? Doesn't have to look like an animal, just good quality.

In terms of form and tuning I have no ides where to go. I definitely have issues somewhere as I'll shoot a few good arrows then throw a wild one quite regularly.

Appreciate any help.
 
Id say use what works. I know people love to hate on whisker biscuits, but they work great in hunting situations. I use one as well and it has never failed me. cant tell you how many horror stories ive heard about drop away rest failures.
 
Thank you, with correct arrow length is that based off draw length?
It's usually an inch or so shorter than your draw length but partially dependent upon which rest you're going to use as they all sit in a slightly different spot. For example, i have a 31" draw length and 29.5" arrows.

Pick a rest, nothing wrong with a whisker biscuit for simplicities sake, but I prefer a limb driven drop away myself, then cut your arrows accordingly. They should go about 1/2-1" past where the rest touches the arrows not including the point.

Spend some time on YouTube, John Dudleys "Nock On" stuff is basically a one stop shop for all things set-up, form, and tuning.
 
If you tell me your draw length and draw weight I can give you a few arrow setups that would work. I recommend easton, day six, and gold tip arrows.
I like limb driven drop away rests. I currently shoot a limb driver gen7, but I also have a qad hdx and hamskea and they all work great.
As far as form, nock on has a school of nock series that is really good.
Also if you can get a picture of you at full draw so we can see anchor, string, grip and stance it would help diagnose any form issues.
 
If you tell me your draw length and draw weight I can give you a few arrow setups that would work. I recommend easton, day six, and gold tip arrows.
I like limb driven drop away rests. I currently shoot a limb driver gen7, but I also have a qad hdx and hamskea and they all work great.
As far as form, nock on has a school of nock series that is really good.
Also if you can get a picture of you at full draw so we can see anchor, string, grip and stance it would help diagnose any form issues.
My draw length is 28" draw weight is 70#.

I'll get the wife to take a pic when I get a chance. Thanks for the offer of help.
 
I've always loved archery, I bought my first compound in 2012 and back then it wasn't as big as it is now in Australia. The downside to that was that I didn't know any bow hunters to help me out. I hunted a fair bit with it, eventually upgrading to an Elite Impulse 34 a few years ago. Even at 70lb it's very nice to shoot so I can't see myself changing bows.

My problem is that because I never got much help I have obviously got myself into bad habits and still don't really know a lot about it. Pretty sure I have the right draw length but my posture shooting, tuning ability and general understanding leaves a lot to be desired.

Aside from that I don't know much about the equipment, i use a whisker biscuit which I've read is not ideal. Unsure about changing that as I hunt from the ground by stalking so having an arrow falling off a rest constantly doesn't appeal to me. I have a decent 5 pin sight which I'm happy with and shoot slick trick magnums which seem to be good also.

Arrows I have no clue about though, I tried a few aussie brands but they all hung around for a couple of years and then folded. Thinking of going a good american brand that's going to hang around. Any suggestions on a good arrow for elk sized game?

I'm also sick of refletching arrows all the time because my arrows are blowing through my diy foam target. Any suggestions for a target that can handle field points and broadheads? Doesn't have to look like an animal, just good quality.

In terms of form and tuning I have no ides where to go. I definitely have issues somewhere as I'll shoot a few good arrows then throw a wild one quite regularly.

Appreciate any help.

I love whisker biscuit for stalks and no plan to switch to anything else. If you are a dedicated tree stand hunter there are better options though.

I use Easton FMJ arrows and I like them with the one downfall that they do get bent eventually and hard to detect because of the aluminum.

Last year I disassembled an old queen size mattress and box spring, removed all the wood and metal, then tied the fabric and padding together in a ball. Field points stick in about 2-3”. broad heads zip through the thing, so doesn’t work for those. Ugly as hell but can’t beat the price, $0.
 
All these are calculatrd with a wrap + 3 aae max stealth vanes (my preferred vane)
A couple arrows I would look at are:
Easton axis 340 spine, cut to 27", 75grain brass insert, 100 grain head, 25 grain collar. Total weight: 500grain, 15% foc

Same as above but with Gold Tip Airstrick 340: 457grain, 17% foc

Day six 300 spine, cut 27.5, 100 grain day six outsert, 100 grain point. 550grain 14.75% foc

Gold tip hunter 300 spine, 100 grain brass insert, 100 grain head. 520grain, 13%foc

I chose 100 grain heads because it gives you the biggest selection of broadheads to choose from.
 
All these are calculatrd with a wrap + 3 aae max stealth vanes (my preferred vane)
A couple arrows I would look at are:
Easton axis 340 spine, cut to 27", 75grain brass insert, 100 grain head, 25 grain collar. Total weight: 500grain, 15% foc

Same as above but with Gold Tip Airstrick 340: 457grain, 17% foc

Day six 300 spine, cut 27.5, 100 grain day six outsert, 100 grain point. 550grain 14.75% foc

Gold tip hunter 300 spine, 100 grain brass insert, 100 grain head. 520grain, 13%foc

I chose 100 grain heads because it gives you the biggest selection of broadheads to choose from.

Thanks mate I'll have a look at what's available here in Aus out of that selection.
 
Hey Mate. I did a lot of testing before my elk hunt last year. I’m shooting samr poundage and draw length to yourself. I was previously using pile drivers but they were getting hard to find. I settled on the Easton Axis 5mm shafts cut to 29”, 3 x 3” vane and 125gn Viper Trick broadhead up front. My local shop had wedges of the shafts so i figured they were pretty popular and had heard good things about them. I was impressed with penetration on hogs here. Shot a 30kg sow front on and full pass thru and zipped another 50 yards passed her. Got a week planned out past Longreach later in the year to test them on some Chanel country boars. Did not recover arrow after i shot my elk.
Target - Rheinhart or the Aussie copy one
 
I hunt from the ground by stalking so having an arrow falling off a rest constantly doesn't appeal to me.
I NEVER have an arrow nocked when on the stalk. Maybe that will cost me someday, but walking through brush with multi-razors on a stick seems like a recipe for disaster.
Other than that, I agree with some of the other comments regarding no reason to make a bunch of changes unless you are sure
 

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