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Basics of elk hunting for a flat lander

Krs1219

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Aug 10, 2017
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Gettysburg Pennsylvania
I dont wanna post the 1st time elk hunter thread asking about units and areas and such. I have my areas picked out and feel I have a decent plan, ive read multiple books and listened/watched everything I can get my hands/ears on. Mainly posting to see what seasoned elk hunters think of my bare bones principles of elk hunting theres more to hunting elk but if I can keep it simple the better I feel.

Tips/basic info

1. Wind and thermals are king

2. Try to always sidehill to locations or through dark timber (easier than straight up and down and your hopefully on the same level with the elk)

3. Hike until you find physical elk or "stinking green" as one book put it. Smell of rutting bull. Wallows or raking areas

4. Seeps/head waters = possible wallows

5. N/NE slopes (dark timber bedding areas) with benches.the nastier the country the more likely elk will be there when hunting pressure is nearby

6. Always set up in front of cover. Never behind it.

7. Draw your bow when you see antler tips.

8. Use the "doorway principal" an elk will usually come in only as needed to see the callers position( opening in timber, ridge/drop off)

9. When calling or taking afternoon breaks always have an arrow knocked for unexpected elk coming in silent.

10. Give some time after calling for those silent elk.

11. Regarding altitude. Hike high and sleep low, take it easy the first 2 days or as needed. STAY as hydrated as you can, refill water as much as you can.


As for calling there a multiple different strategies. I like chris roe's methods and will try to apply them as I can.
 
Number 6 is a big one. A lot of new guys don’t get that one right, and I have seen it cost several bulls that were called in on a string and should have been dead.
 
Thats a list wow...lol #7 i dont agree with, old guy once told me "elk hunt with a bow is easy, you only need to practice 2 shots 6 or 60yards" elk can take forever to come last few yards or enter shooting lane. elk arnt skittish like deer, i draw just before ready to shot. Since i challenged one i will offer up something i have learned; bulls tend to bed top 1/3 of timbered ridge. Good luck and welcome to ht
 
Based on my extensive time in the mountains, and spot and stalk bowhunting:
7. Draw your bow when you see antler tips.
Draw when the animal is within range and its eyes are obstructed
9. When calling or taking afternoon breaks always have an arrow knocked for unexpected elk coming in silent.
Calling, sure. Breaks, absolutely not. This is dangerous! Far to easy to lose mental focus of an unsheathed broadhead and grab it, step on it, poke your buddy, etc.
 
My first mountain hunt taught me that you can’t do too much preparing your body for the hunt. At the very least hike with weight a few times a week between now and then.
 
#12. Concentrate on a good shot, They cannot be left overnight with the guts in them without spoilage.

#13. Don’t shoot one where you can’t get it out in time.

#14. Use good synthetic game bags, flys and dirt on the meat is no good.

#15. Good boots, pack, and trekking poles are worth their weight in gold when packing one out.

Anyway those are my big takeaways from my first one. I treated mine like it was a whitetail and that was a huge mistake.
 
Yeah I can't stress the importance of training your body for the weight of the pack, especially if you packing in as well. I have a big chain and a set of snow chains for the truck that I strap on to my pack. 65 pounds of weight simulates a good pack weight for me. I cut the grass while wearing the pack, I pick up dog poop, pick weeds, etc.. I feel that the cutting grass helps me develop those smaller back/side muscles you need to stabilize the pack when your footing isn't so great ie.. a rock slips out from under you and your foot shifts a bit. Every time I turn the mower, the pack is "swinging" left or right, helping to work those muscles.

And the trekking poles are a must. 4WD for humans.
 
I think you're farther on your way to a successful first archery elk hunt than most.

A few comments on some of your rules:
1. Wind. Yes, I cannot express how important it is to be aware of the wind and thermals. Don't let yourself stop thinking about it, use it, work with it. Use your wind checker excessively. For real.

7. I'm not so sure on this one. I've seen antler tips, drawn, and then the bull stopped and milled around out of range long enough that I had to let down. Hard to say there's really a great formula on when to draw, except this - don't draw when their eye is exposed. They WILL see it. I've blown more encounters at this point than I care to discuss. It can be very discouraging to work a bull for a half hour, only to spook him at the very last moment when he sees the draw. I've lost sleep over some of those.

9. Yep, definitely have an arrow nocked before touching a call. They might be closer than you think. One morning at about 10:00, I had given up for the morning and was hiking out. On a whim I let out a few cow chirps just to see if I got a response, bow was dangling in my hand by the string. There was a bull bedded about 75 yds below me. He jumped up and ran straight up the hill, skidding to a halt broadside 10 yards away. Not much I could do. Tried to get an arrow nocked and draw... See #7.

10. I've shot, and been busted by bulls that came in silent. I would estimate that as many as one in four come in silent. This surely varies from place to place. And sometimes they'll bugle until they start getting close, then they get quiet as they start closing the distance.
 
And do a lotta stair climbers before you go. Elk are not usually in the flats though they do come down sometimes to feed and that but usually are on a mission then. Where I have found a lot of bull elk was in ugly timber and very steep hill sides. In the rut, I have seen them in the mountain meadows, but during rifle season, I seen bulls mostly on the ridges, mesa tops, or on the leeway side of steep hills and mountain ridges. Be prepared to gain elevation in a hurry.
 
Ive been trying to get in hiking shape. Only steep trail nearby is 45 min. Away, its only 1.5 mile but 1000ft gain and very rocky. I'm trying to do it at least once a week with a 65lb pack on.
 
I bet there’s a high school closer than that. I put my pack on and go up and down bleachers until my legs shake. It’ll test your want to.

Bleachers work too. Or if you live in an apartment complex or work in a tall office building, going up and down the stairs with a pack works too.
 
Yeah I can't stress the importance of training your body for the weight of the pack, especially if you packing in as well. I have a big chain and a set of snow chains for the truck that I strap on to my pack. 65 pounds of weight simulates a good pack weight for me. I cut the grass while wearing the pack, I pick up dog poop, pick weeds, etc.. I feel that the cutting grass helps me develop those smaller back/side muscles you need to stabilize the pack when your footing isn't so great ie.. a rock slips out from under you and your foot shifts a bit. Every time I turn the mower, the pack is "swinging" left or right, helping to work those muscles.

And the trekking poles are a must. 4WD for humans.

Good points for those who can't go hiking a couple times a week due to family obligations. I have babies and with the heat it limits what I can do outdoors with them.
 
Why start the exact same thread on two different forums?

 
Why start the exact same thread on two different forums?

Just thought the more input I got from seasoned elk hunters the better. Guess alot of the same guys are on both forums?
 
Why start the exact same thread on two different forums?


Because he wanted to solicit more advice. Pretty obvious.

Good first post OP. Seems like you're getting some good feedback.
 
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