1874 sharps

[BrentD]

Wow, thanks. I wouldn't be able to purchase a second one for some time, my primary use will be hunting. Range time will largely be for practicing at 300 yds, but I'd like to shoot 800-1000 for the fun of it. I'll have to research the pros and cons of the different bullets, that thought hadn't even crossed my mind. I just want a beautiful rifle that I can have a lot of fun with and pass it on down to my kids when the time comes

several models of Shilohs will fit for hunting. the Saddle Rifle, Business Rifle, the#3 Sporter (my choice). BAsically, there are two different comb heights. I prefer the bigger drop for hunting and the lesser drop for long range targets. #3 Sporter with a Standard weight 28 or 30" barrel is perfect. Sharps are amazing hunting rifles. But nothing wrong with highwalls, Ballards, Rollers, and more.

 

[Addicting]

I love this thread. I’ve always wanted a 45-70.

 

[Bigjay73]

I love this thread. I’ve always wanted a 45-70.

We could split the cost and trade custody every other week

 

[Bigjay73]

several models of Shilohs will fit for hunting. the Saddle Rifle, Business Rifle, the#3 Sporter (my choice). BAsically, there are two different comb heights. I prefer the bigger drop for hunting and the lesser drop for long range targets. #3 Sporter with a Standard weight 28 or 30" barrel is perfect. Sharps are amazing hunting rifles. But nothing wrong with highwalls, Ballards, Rollers, and more.

I definitely want the bigger drop. The straighter angle on my 1885 is the only thing I wish were a little different, took me quite a few rounds to get used to it. I will check out the #3. What add ons are worth it for accuracy? Should I swap the heavy octagon for a standard? I'm trying to stay under $3500

 

[Addicting]

We could split the cost and trade custody every other week

I would make a horrible ex and seek full custody.

 

[rmyoung1]

I really want to take a bison, fair chase, with a Sharps before I’m dead. Best of luck with your pursuit of owning one. I get it

 

[BrentD]

I definitely want the bigger drop. The straighter angle on my 1885 is the only thing I wish were a little different, took me quite a few rounds to get used to it. I will check out the #3. What add ons are worth it for accuracy? Should I swap the heavy octagon for a standard? I'm trying to stay under $3500

That's something only you can know. So, this is what I think - but not what is necessarily best.

Plain wood - Sharps are working rifles, not show pieces. There were some fancy ones, but their fame was made in the mud and dust and back of a hide wagon.

Bone case colors - because that's how they should be.

Sights. A very tricky thing on a hunting rifle. if your eyes are good, then barrel sights might be all you need. Or you could put a vernier transition tang sight on it, and use that for 200 yds and leave the barrel sights for 100. I do this with an original Ballard rifle (and a few others as well). Which tang sight, is important. How are your eyes?

My one piece of vanity with my Sharps is a bolt-on pistol grip. Shiloh makes them from ebony and I think they are sexy as hell and functional as well. But I made mine Left) myself from desert ironwood, the other is Shilohs. A little sleeker. This is FAR more functional than a pistol gripped Sharps like the #1 Long Range Express because the grip on that is way too far back to be useful.





I don't have a lot of other Sharps pictures. This one is .45-100. Way too much of a good thing. But I didn't know. It has a Standard weight 1/2 octagon, 32". I wish it was more like 28" The weight loss would be nice, but it's not super heavy (~10.5 lb). I've killed elk, antelope, and mule deer with it. Then I took it to Africa and killed Eland, Springbok, Warthog, Gemsbok, and Hartebeast with it.
It's a fine rifle.

Back when I had hair, a quarter century back. 260 yds. My longest big game kill ever.



Eventually, I learned to keep myself out of pictures. But it's what I've got.

 

[Dan O]

I definitely want the bigger drop. The straighter angle on my 1885 is the only thing I wish were a little different, took me quite a few rounds to get used to it. I will check out the #3. What add ons are worth it for accuracy? Should I swap the heavy octagon for a standard? I'm trying to stay under $3500

Hi Bigjay,

The different models for the 1874 are the #3 has more drop straight grip. My 45-100 is a #3 standard weight 30 inch octagon barrel. With just barrel sights it weighs just a hair over 10 lbs. I have started using this for the long range matches aka 800, 900 & 1000 yards. I mount my MVA 6X scope for this. My load is 86 grains of Swiss 1.5, 535 grain BACO Creedmoor bullet cast 20-1 lead/tin mix.

The other models are the Montana rough rider that has a higher comb without a cheek piece in 45-70. Then I have two #1's they have the higher comb and a cheek piece. One is in 40-65 with a 28 inch heavy octagon barrel. The other #1 is one I bought from a good friend that goes by MLV. Mike ordered this rifle with all the bells and whistles available from Shiloh in 2004. It is in 45-70 30 inch heavy octagon. He also had a 40-65 barrel with this rifle and I have that also. The 40-65 barrel is a 30 inch heavy half octagon and half round.

Shiloh has said in the past that the 1874 rifle can handle heavy 44-70 loads. Check the loading manuals and you will see 3 load ranges. The lower range for the old trap doors, middle range for the 1895 marlins and the high range for the Ruger #1. I have shot loads for the 1885 Marlins that is the middle load range. They perform very well and hit hard on both ends. I have shot some loads in the Ruger #1 load range and my rifle handled them without issue but dang the recoil will get you're attention so I stay with the mid range loads if I use smokeless with is almost never. I shoot black powder only in the 40-65 and 45-100. The 45-70 black powder 99% of the time.

For hunting the #3 in 45-100 is my go-to rifle with barrel sights. I have several bullet molds for hunting. The first is a Lyman 420 grain flat point, the other is a Steve Brooks mold that casts a 495 grain flat point. I cast both from 20-1 lead/tin mix. So far, I have shot a couple of Whitetail bucks and an Antelope. No Elk yet so maybe next year will be the year.

Good luck on your journey into the old single shot's. You will have a great time and when you light up a load of black powder and launch a big lead slug. Then a few seconds later you hear the smack on a steel plate hundreds of yards down range. you will be hooked.

 

[BrentD]

Hi Bigjay,

The different models for the 1874 are the #3 has more drop straight grip. My 45-100 is a #3 standard weight 30 inch octagon barrel. With just barrel sights it weighs just a hair over 10 lbs. I have started using this for the long range matches aka 800, 900 & 1000 yards. I mount my MVA 6X scope for this. My load is 86 grains of Swiss 1.5, 535 grain BACO Creedmoor bullet cast 20-1 lead/tin mix.

The other models are the Montana rough rider that has a higher comb without a cheek piece in 45-70. Then I have two #1's they have the higher comb and a cheek piece. One is in 40-65 with a 28 inch heavy octagon barrel. The other #1 is one I bought from a good friend that goes by MLV. Mike ordered this rifle with all the bells and whistles available from Shiloh in 2004. It is in 45-70 30 inch heavy octagon. He also had a 40-65 barrel with this rifle and I have that also. The 40-65 barrel is a 30 inch heavy half octagon and half round.

Shiloh has said in the past that the 1874 rifle can handle heavy 44-70 loads. Check the loading manuals and you will see 3 load ranges. The lower range for the old trap doors, middle range for the 1895 marlins and the high range for the Ruger #1. I have shot loads for the 1885 Marlins that is the middle load range. They perform very well and hit hard on both ends. I have shot some loads in the Ruger #1 load range and my rifle handled them without issue but dang the recoil will get you're attention so I stay with the mid range loads if I use smokeless with is almost never. I shoot black powder only in the 40-65 and 45-100. The 45-70 black powder 99% of the time.

For hunting the #3 in 45-100 is my go-to rifle with barrel sights. I have several bullet molds for hunting. The first is a Lyman 420 grain flat point, the other is a Steve Brooks mold that casts a 495 grain flat point. I cast both from 20-1 lead/tin mix. So far, I have shot a couple of Whitetail bucks and an Antelope. No Elk yet so maybe next year will be the year.

Good luck on your journey into the old single shot's. You will have a great time and when you light up a load of black powder and launch a big lead slug. Then a few seconds later you hear the smack on a steel plate hundreds of yards down range. you will be hooked.

Yeah, what he said.

 

[Dan O]

Brent that pistol grip looks great, nice job. I've thought about having Kirk put one on my #3 but so far, it's still in the thinking stage lol.

 

[Bigjay73]

That's something only you can know. So, this is what I think - but not what is necessarily best.

Plain wood - Sharps are working rifles, not show pieces. There were some fancy ones, but their fame was made in the mud and dust and back of a hide wagon.

Bone case colors - because that's how they should be.

Sights. A very tricky thing on a hunting rifle. if your eyes are good, then barrel sights might be all you need. Or you could put a vernier transition tang sight on it, and use that for 200 yds and leave the barrel sights for 100. I do this with an original Ballard rifle (and a few others as well). Which tang sight, is important. How are your eyes?

My one piece of vanity with my Sharps is a bolt-on pistol grip. Shiloh makes them from ebony and I think they are sexy as hell and functional as well. But I made mine Left) myself from desert ironwood, the other is Shilohs. A little sleeker. This is FAR more functional than a pistol gripped Sharps like the #1 Long Range Express because the grip on that is way too far back to be useful.




View attachment 306041View attachment 306042
I don't have a lot of other Sharps pictures. This one is .45-100. Way too much of a good thing. But I didn't know. It has a Standard weight 1/2 octagon, 32". I wish it was more like 28" The weight loss would be nice, but it's not super heavy (~10.5 lb). I've killed elk, antelope, and mule deer with it. Then I took it to Africa and killed Eland, Springbok, Warthog, Gemsbok, and Hartebeast with it.
It's a fine rifle.

Back when I had hair, a quarter century back. 260 yds. My longest big game kill ever.
View attachment 306043

View attachment 306044
Eventually, I learned to keep myself out of pictures. But it's what I've got.

Well if I wasn't interested in a sharps before, I definitely am now. Thanks for all of this info, much appreciated. I really like the idea of the bolt on pistol grip, I can really see that being useful. I'm leaning towards a 30" standard octagonal barrel, rear tang of some sort and a #111 front sight.

 

[Bigjay73]

Hi Bigjay,

The different models for the 1874 are the #3 has more drop straight grip. My 45-100 is a #3 standard weight 30 inch octagon barrel. With just barrel sights it weighs just a hair over 10 lbs. I have started using this for the long range matches aka 800, 900 & 1000 yards. I mount my MVA 6X scope for this. My load is 86 grains of Swiss 1.5, 535 grain BACO Creedmoor bullet cast 20-1 lead/tin mix.

The other models are the Montana rough rider that has a higher comb without a cheek piece in 45-70. Then I have two #1's they have the higher comb and a cheek piece. One is in 40-65 with a 28 inch heavy octagon barrel. The other #1 is one I bought from a good friend that goes by MLV. Mike ordered this rifle with all the bells and whistles available from Shiloh in 2004. It is in 45-70 30 inch heavy octagon. He also had a 40-65 barrel with this rifle and I have that also. The 40-65 barrel is a 30 inch heavy half octagon and half round.

Shiloh has said in the past that the 1874 rifle can handle heavy 44-70 loads. Check the loading manuals and you will see 3 load ranges. The lower range for the old trap doors, middle range for the 1895 marlins and the high range for the Ruger #1. I have shot loads for the 1885 Marlins that is the middle load range. They perform very well and hit hard on both ends. I have shot some loads in the Ruger #1 load range and my rifle handled them without issue but dang the recoil will get you're attention so I stay with the mid range loads if I use smokeless with is almost never. I shoot black powder only in the 40-65 and 45-100. The 45-70 black powder 99% of the time.

For hunting the #3 in 45-100 is my go-to rifle with barrel sights. I have several bullet molds for hunting. The first is a Lyman 420 grain flat point, the other is a Steve Brooks mold that casts a 495 grain flat point. I cast both from 20-1 lead/tin mix. So far, I have shot a couple of Whitetail bucks and an Antelope. No Elk yet so maybe next year will be the year.

Good luck on your journey into the old single shot's. You will have a great time and when you light up a load of black powder and launch a big lead slug. Then a few seconds later you hear the smack on a steel plate hundreds of yards down range. you will be hooked.

You guys are really filling my head with a lot of info, i really appreciate it. The countless ways to customize the various rifles really make it a lot of fun. I only wish I could shoulder a few different ones to get a feel for them.

 

[BrentD]

Well if I wasn't interested in a sharps before, I definitely am now. Thanks for all of this info, much appreciated. I really like the idea of the bolt on pistol grip, I can really see that being useful. I'm leaning towards a 30" standard octagonal barrel, rear tang of some sort and a #111 front sight.

You won't be disappointed. Never. But it takes a long time. That said, there are ways to cut to the head of the line, or go buy a used one. @Dan O will know how to jump to the head of the line. But get after it. You know how Mr. Newburg feels about waiting around "'til later".

I can help with the rear sight. There are a couple of considerations. You will actually need 2. A 1000 yds sight is not a good hunting sight, and vice versa.

You guys are really filling my head with a lot of info, i really appreciate it. The countless ways to customize the various rifles really make it a lot of fun. I only wish I could shoulder a few different ones to get a feel for them.

Well, where are ya? We could probably find a match for you to drop in on. There's always a Shiloh around.

 

[BAKPAKR]

There was a very nice Shiloh Sharps on LRH that sold recently. I am kind of kicking myself for not being the buyer.

Like @rmyoung1, I would like to get a bison with one.

 

[Bigjay73]

There was a very nice Shiloh Sharps on LRH that sold recently. I am kind of kicking myself for not being the buyer.

Like @rmyoung1, I would like to get a bison with one.

Shiloh Sharps # 3 Sporter

Shiloh Sharps # 3 Sporter for sale online.

www.gunsinternational.com

 

[Bigjay73]

You won't be disappointed. Never. But it takes a long time. That said, there are ways to cut to the head of the line, or go buy a used one. @Dan O will know how to jump to the head of the line. But get after it. You know how Mr. Newburg feels about waiting around "'til later".

I can help with the rear sight. There are a couple of considerations. You will actually need 2. A 1000 yds sight is not a good hunting sight, and vice versa.



Well, where are ya? We could probably find a match for you to drop in on. There's always a Shiloh around.

Good to know about the rear sight. I'm in the Denver area, ill look around

 

[Ben Lamb]

Should add that I'd like a rifle that can responsibly take elk at 200yds and shoot targets at 1k. Does such an animal exist?

Hey baby, you looking for me?

Shiloh Sharps in 40-90 SS straight & a Hilux Wllm Malcom 6x scope.

386 grains of lead at a blistering 1600 fps. It'll do donkey. It'll do.

 

[Dakota79]

Does anybody on here have an original Sharps rifle?

 

[Ben Lamb]

Does anybody on here have an original Sharps rifle?

I think @shrapnel does.

 

[fishing4sanity]

Just when I thought I had cured the gun itch for this month you guys go and have this thread!