What to consider when buying a new bow?

[Jnasa]

I am shooting an old Clearwater Power Mag. I bought it used 15 years ago. It is about 30 years old. I plan to hunt with it this season but would like to upgrade next year.

I plan to shoot some different bows at a local shop. I am looking more at previous years models or other discounts. It will primarily be for elk but would use it for other species. I am currently using 125 grain points and a 70lb draw weight.

What else should I consider? Thanks for any advice.

 

[Duck-Slayer]

Smooth draw and fits your hand,
Matt

 

[Nick87]

Shoot as many as you can. You'll know when it feels right.

 

[Goatshoes]

Smooth draw and fits your hand,
Matt

I think, fits your bow hand as Duck-Slayer wrote is key. I'll ad quiet.

 

[Turkeygetpwnd38]

Fit and feel are important but almost everyone makes a great bow these days. Since it sounds like you will keep it a long time, I’d go with Mathews (assuming you like their offerings). They are going to be the only company that supports their bows long term. Everyone else gives 5 years or less of support, then if you have a warranty issues they will give you a discount on a new model.

I just got a set of limbs warrantied for a Halon 5, that bow is 10 years old.

 

[Mallardsx2]

I typically buy a new Matthews ~ every 10 years. Some I love and some I just like. But it’s a schedule that makes sense financially for me.

Having said that, I would consider how smoothe the draw cycle is and how solid the back wall is. Also, if I draw a bow back and I notice ANY torque from my natural grip being applied to the bow, I walk away.

After almost 40 years of shooting compounds, I’m not willing to “work on my grip”…..It is what it is at this point in life. Hand torque is a major issue for a lot of people and they simply ignore it or pretend it doesn’t happen..,,

I get the bow set to my preferred draw length and I draw the bow with my eyes closed.
I look up at my top cam.
If the string is riding true, I proceed with other thoughts. If it doesn’t ride true, I walk away from that model. PERIOD.

That’s just me.

 

[Mudranger1]

Price only! MO EXPENSIVE...MO BETTER! I keeed. If your shooting something 30 years old a $2 turd bow off Amazon will probably be better

 

[Addicting]

Weight was a big thing with me. Some of the new ones bare were 6+lbs. holding that weight with my arm extended was too miuch when the Matthews came in at a little over 4lbs. From there it was draw smoothness, then how it felt when it broke the shot. I went thru my normal routine and then closed my eyes as I released. I just wanted to feel and not worry about what the arrow was doing.

You will know when you feel it, try several.

 

[rjthehunter]

Determine your budget and go from there. I've typically shot hoyt, but they're all capable of killing elk.

 

[bogey]

I mirror the thought on grip, draw cycle and backwall, you know when it all feels right. Long story short, lots of tendonitis in my left elbow from injuries as a youth. Vibrations with the new light weight bows turned out to be a big deal for me, my 15-year-old Bowtec was much heavier. I bought a new Hoyt and had to trade it in, and went to Mathews.

 

[Forkyfinder]

How it holds on target to me is everything. Draw cycle, hand shock, and the "back wall" arent as critical to me (limb stops are my preference though).A few ive drawn back had a tendency to twist one direction or drift. I couldnt ever like that.

 

[dgc1963]

like most have said shoot a bunch and 1 or 2 will just feel good shooting then pick 1

 

[Rack Daniels]

PSE customer service sucks.
Still, I shoot a PSE- FOR NOW
Mathew’s has been a good company to deal with, from those I’ve talked to.
Prime makes some sick ass bows
Bowtechs are super nice
Hoyt is 50:50 love:hate- I don’t like the way they carry or shoot personally.

No point in fiddling with bare bows til you’re ready to put your own components on it— in my opinion, it’ll just throw your judgement in weight, balance and packability.

Can’t wait to see what you choose and how it shoots

 

[Khunter]

I typically buy a new Matthews ~ every 10 years. Some I love and some I just like. But it’s a schedule that makes sense financially for me.

Having said that, I would consider how smoothe the draw cycle is and how solid the back wall is. Also, if I draw a bow back and I notice ANY torque from my natural grip being applied to the bow, I walk away.

After almost 40 years of shooting compounds, I’m not willing to “work on my grip”…..It is what it is at this point in life. Hand torque is a major issue for a lot of people and they simply ignore it or pretend it doesn’t happen..,,

I get the bow set to my preferred draw length and I draw the bow with my eyes closed.
I look up at my top cam.
If the string is riding true, I proceed with other thoughts. If it doesn’t ride true, I walk away from that model. PERIOD.

That’s just me.

what does riding true, or rather ‘not riding true’ look like

 

[Mallardsx2]

Envision your bow at full draw instead of at rest in the below pictures.

Riding true - String running true right down the center of the cam.


Not riding true - Pulled the string over with my thumb at the mid point to show the string not riding true, several degrees to the left.


When someone asks me to help them tune their bow the first thing I do when they draw their bow is I stand behind them and I see what kind of riser hand torque we’re dealing with. I see a lot of people that have weird arrow flight and when they draw their bow, their string looks like it should damn near derail when they touch their release. Then you look at their arrow flight going all whirlybird out through the air. Then the next arrow is fine. Then its a "game of what is happening". A lot of people tune this applied torque out of the bow/arrow during paper tuning. I don't like to do that because unless someone consistent on that torque, its very hard to tune it out of a bow. Really it just boils down to hand torque on your riser. Some of this can bit attributed to a draw length too long or too short. But that's a whole other rabbit hole to go down.

Personally, if I have ANY hand torque when I draw a bow at a shop, I move on. I'm just not willing to fight the fight for the life of the bow. (Most) Bow shops are looking from behind to see the torque but won't bother to mention this to you because they want to sell bows and they will just tune it out for you at the shop and let you go live your life. Which is fine for some/most guys.

I encourage guys to draw their bow, focus on the target and right before they release the arrow to just look up at your top wheel or cam and see how your string is tracking....Obviously this cannot be part of your routine shot sequence, but I think a lot of guys would see just how badly they are torquing their bow and then they wonder why they cannot get fixed blade broadheads to fly worth a crap.

Again, just my opinion.

 

[Mallardsx2]

I always wondered if someone would make a riser handle that floated on a ball joint. I bet that would be the cats meow.

It would allow a fully secure grip on the riser. It wouldn't matter how hard you squeezed. You wouldn't be able to torque the bow.....

It would be a bit weird at at first, but torque would almost be completely eliminated by the bow "self centering" with a natural anchor point.

 

[rjthehunter]

I always wondered if someone would make a riser handle that floated on a ball joint. I bet that would be the cats meow.

It would allow a fully secure grip on the riser. It wouldn't matter how hard you squeezed. You wouldn't be able to torque the bow.....

It would be a bit weird at at first, but torque would almost be completely eliminated by the bow "self centering" with a natural anchor point.

Delete your post and design it! I bet you could sell the rights to bow manufacturers if it works.

 

[TheTone]

I always wondered if someone would make a riser handle that floated on a ball joint. I bet that would be the cats meow.

It would allow a fully secure grip on the riser. It wouldn't matter how hard you squeezed. You wouldn't be able to torque the bow.....

It would be a bit weird at at first, but torque would almost be completely eliminated by the bow "self centering" with a natural anchor point.

A company made something like that for a while, van handle death grip, every review I ever saw basically said just learn to grip a bow correctly and not buy it

 

[Mallardsx2]

A company made something like that for a while, van handle death grip, every review I ever saw basically said just learn to grip a bow correctly and not buy it

2 weeks ago, I read a review on an asthma inhaler that said my kid just needed to learn to control her breathing better and not to waste my money.....

 

[JohnCushman]

Shoot as many models in as many companies as you can. Don't be afraid to travel to shoot bows. A bow is a huge investment for probably the next 10 years. After you shoot as many as you can, narrow down to like 3 and shoot them again until you find the one that fits you the best and you like the most and you shoot the best. Avoid big box stores too. A local mom and pop will give you better attention and customer service to keep your business.