HONEYBADGER
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 24, 2013
- Messages
- 705
They are tasty, take every shred of meat you can pack or get one close to a road.
What do I need to know about Moose
- Thread starter Ben Long
- Start date
Sasquatchewan
Well-known member
Here's my advice:
1. Bring rope to tie off the legs, it makes quartering alone 10x easier. It's better to reset your lines from time to time than fight deadweight.
2. Bull moose are f'n huge, they're a lot of work and have a plan to pack it out. I've killed a few and have helped others kill theirs and every time I'm surprised how big they are. If you can't take an ATV or horses, take a small sled. I've packed out a bull moose by myself with one.
3. You don't have to be super quiet hunting moose, if you even remotely sound like one, they'll let you walk up to shooting distance.
4. Practice calling now, you don't need to be great at it but at the right time and with the right call it works really well. They don't rush in, they can come in quiet or come in slowly calling back at you.
5. Don't shoot them in water and preferably on hard ground. I've put 3 shots in a rutting bull moose and it died a few steps away from where it was hit with the first shot.
6. It's a very low density animal. Don't get discouraged when you don't find them, keep looking for sign and hunt hard. Water and willows is where I find them. Look for young aspens, willows, birch, etc, that's been nipped at the top.
7. Prederably have buddies who can help and a fridge full of cold beers for when you get home to celebrate.
Enjoy the hunt!
1. Bring rope to tie off the legs, it makes quartering alone 10x easier. It's better to reset your lines from time to time than fight deadweight.
2. Bull moose are f'n huge, they're a lot of work and have a plan to pack it out. I've killed a few and have helped others kill theirs and every time I'm surprised how big they are. If you can't take an ATV or horses, take a small sled. I've packed out a bull moose by myself with one.
3. You don't have to be super quiet hunting moose, if you even remotely sound like one, they'll let you walk up to shooting distance.
4. Practice calling now, you don't need to be great at it but at the right time and with the right call it works really well. They don't rush in, they can come in quiet or come in slowly calling back at you.
5. Don't shoot them in water and preferably on hard ground. I've put 3 shots in a rutting bull moose and it died a few steps away from where it was hit with the first shot.
6. It's a very low density animal. Don't get discouraged when you don't find them, keep looking for sign and hunt hard. Water and willows is where I find them. Look for young aspens, willows, birch, etc, that's been nipped at the top.
7. Prederably have buddies who can help and a fridge full of cold beers for when you get home to celebrate.
Enjoy the hunt!
Wildabeest
Well-known member
FIFY
I prefer to call them. Moose can be very weary. And can hear everything. I believe that they see very well too.
Moose do not like getting out in the open I like to find funnel spots where different patches of woods connect. This can be done with maps. Find the trails and make a blind?
Bulls are brought in using vocal calls, scraping brush but visual attractant is good. A canoe paddle set in the crotch of a willow that can wave a bit in the wind. I will break off devils club leaves that turn yellow and use them.
I generally stick with a cow in heat call. Just believe that a critter that hasn't had sex in a year and hears a cow calling that will get some attention. Young bull sounds, don't sound like a big bull to bring in a stubborn bull.
I've had them come in like freight trains as soon as I call all the way to bringing them in for miles. It's amazing how such a big animal can appear n disappear so fast with no sound.
Good luck n stay positive
Moose do not like getting out in the open I like to find funnel spots where different patches of woods connect. This can be done with maps. Find the trails and make a blind?
Bulls are brought in using vocal calls, scraping brush but visual attractant is good. A canoe paddle set in the crotch of a willow that can wave a bit in the wind. I will break off devils club leaves that turn yellow and use them.
I generally stick with a cow in heat call. Just believe that a critter that hasn't had sex in a year and hears a cow calling that will get some attention. Young bull sounds, don't sound like a big bull to bring in a stubborn bull.
I've had them come in like freight trains as soon as I call all the way to bringing them in for miles. It's amazing how such a big animal can appear n disappear so fast with no sound.
Good luck n stay positive
RyGuy
Well-known member
I’m no expert, but I’ve been on 2 Shiras hunts here in Colorado and I lived in moose country for 2 years. Right around October 1st the moose really start coming out of the woodwork as others have said.
Hope for rain/snow and cooler weather. I always see moose moving right after a good rain.
It seems to be a mental challenge to stay focused and not get discouraged. Moose are present in much lower densities than deer/elk and they disappear surprisingly quickly. You’ll think that you’re glassing everything but suddenly a huge bull can appear right in front of you.
The gutting/gilling isn’t too crazy if you have done elk before. But having a lightweight tarp and lots of rope has been helpful to me.
Good luck and enjoy it! Share lots of pictures!
Hope for rain/snow and cooler weather. I always see moose moving right after a good rain.
It seems to be a mental challenge to stay focused and not get discouraged. Moose are present in much lower densities than deer/elk and they disappear surprisingly quickly. You’ll think that you’re glassing everything but suddenly a huge bull can appear right in front of you.
The gutting/gilling isn’t too crazy if you have done elk before. But having a lightweight tarp and lots of rope has been helpful to me.
Good luck and enjoy it! Share lots of pictures!
OntarioHunter
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 11, 2020
- Messages
- 5,870
My experience tracking them is exactly the opposite of Saskhunter but we probably hunt very different environments. Here the moose take a lot of heat from wolves and hunters. They hear anything on their track and they are GONE. And never stop. I have shot two bulls in their beds but it required extreme stealth. Neither of them knew I was there and the second one was less than twenty yards. I once tracked a young cow to a chokecherry grove and let her walk by so close I could almost read the number on the tag in her ear (she was tagged across the border the year before ... about six hour drive away!). But those moose never knew I was around. Wear polar fleece or wool head to ankles to reduce noise. I have an extra large fleece jacket that I'll pull over my nylon daypack when I'm on a track.
I've never had a problem gutting one by myself. Actually, all seven of them I gutted by myself. Don't recall that I had any rope or cord along (but it does make the job easier for those big animals). As others have mentioned, meat spoils very quickly in the early season, especially on those thick-skinned long-haired critters. The hair on a moose's back and shoulders is at least three times longer than an elk's. Even if the evenings are cool you better get the hide off and into quarters or you'll lose some meat overnight, neck and shoulders especially. Be very careful taking a shot late in the day. Put him down because if he dies during the night he'll likely be dogfood by morning. Bugs are liable to be bad too then so have some meat bags handy. Keep in mind the hump on a moose's back is backed by solid bone vertebrate about ten inches thick. You'll need a real saw to cut through that if you decide to quarter it up. To prepare a moose to be dragged out with ATV, tie the front hooves up behind the head before rigor mortis sets in and cut the hind legs off at the knee. It will pull through brush much easier.
I have seen a couple of nice bulls in that district the last couple years hunting elk. Good luck!
I've never had a problem gutting one by myself. Actually, all seven of them I gutted by myself. Don't recall that I had any rope or cord along (but it does make the job easier for those big animals). As others have mentioned, meat spoils very quickly in the early season, especially on those thick-skinned long-haired critters. The hair on a moose's back and shoulders is at least three times longer than an elk's. Even if the evenings are cool you better get the hide off and into quarters or you'll lose some meat overnight, neck and shoulders especially. Be very careful taking a shot late in the day. Put him down because if he dies during the night he'll likely be dogfood by morning. Bugs are liable to be bad too then so have some meat bags handy. Keep in mind the hump on a moose's back is backed by solid bone vertebrate about ten inches thick. You'll need a real saw to cut through that if you decide to quarter it up. To prepare a moose to be dragged out with ATV, tie the front hooves up behind the head before rigor mortis sets in and cut the hind legs off at the knee. It will pull through brush much easier.
I have seen a couple of nice bulls in that district the last couple years hunting elk. Good luck!
MThuntr
Well-known member
Yup...this season I called on a spot knowing there were bulls down the creek. I sat there all day hoping he'd show up. The next morning a bull was 100 yards from where I was calling. He now lives in my freezer
If you are interested in B&C score follow these simple rules-
Top 3 things in order that I look for in a good moose.
1 - Split brows- Adds to to your palm length score tremendously which is the largest % of moose score by overall inches accounts for 24-40 inches long per side. 48-80 points of 155 B&C Min.
2 - Lots of points 10 per side with not a lot of longer points smaller points equals older bull with filled in paddles from what I've seen. Easier to count points vs guessing palm width. 20+ points in overall score.
3- Palm width - skinny palms means younger bull see # 2 above. varies but 10-14 inches per side. 20-28 points out of the overall score.
If all 3 above are met the bull will likely be at least 40 wide and have decent enough mass. I wouldn't worry about overall width unless its a deciding factor on your perfect bull. I use a 8-9 inches eye to eye number to measure width. If a bull as 2 eyewidths past the eye on each side it will probably be over 40 inches wide.
To summarize- A split brow bull with 10 points will likely make B&C min score of 140.
I've been on at least 10 moose hunts and helped harvest 6 B&C or P&Y bulls - A true trophy moose is s big one that falls close to a road.
Sandbrew
Top 3 things in order that I look for in a good moose.
1 - Split brows- Adds to to your palm length score tremendously which is the largest % of moose score by overall inches accounts for 24-40 inches long per side. 48-80 points of 155 B&C Min.
2 - Lots of points 10 per side with not a lot of longer points smaller points equals older bull with filled in paddles from what I've seen. Easier to count points vs guessing palm width. 20+ points in overall score.
3- Palm width - skinny palms means younger bull see # 2 above. varies but 10-14 inches per side. 20-28 points out of the overall score.
If all 3 above are met the bull will likely be at least 40 wide and have decent enough mass. I wouldn't worry about overall width unless its a deciding factor on your perfect bull. I use a 8-9 inches eye to eye number to measure width. If a bull as 2 eyewidths past the eye on each side it will probably be over 40 inches wide.
To summarize- A split brow bull with 10 points will likely make B&C min score of 140.
I've been on at least 10 moose hunts and helped harvest 6 B&C or P&Y bulls - A true trophy moose is s big one that falls close to a road.
Sandbrew
OntarioHunter
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 11, 2020
- Messages
- 5,870
Agreed. Spread doesn't really count for much in the overall scheme of things. Today I'm working on doing a euro of a client's second bull (it's the chop job mentioned in my other thread). This one is 47" but heavier than the very nice 61" cap I just finished. This one has 4-split brow on left and two-sort-of-three on the right. I'll measure them both for SCI before they go out and they'll easily make minimum. I suspect scores will be close to same even though the 61" has 3-split on both sides. This client's last bull was 63" but I seriously doubt it would make minimum book score. One palm was quite skinny and not much for brows. He had some unusually long skinny points on both sides. Bulls very often broom those off. I suspect that one was very old and out of breeding circulation.
My three bulls were each 3 year-olds with similar racks. I wouldn't pass on a bull like that. My first one in Montana (1977) was a spooner and great eating. In college at the time and not much time or money to waste on being picky.
Last edited:
MinnesotaHunter
Well-known member
As mentioned, the bulls can be very sexually aggressive. If you intend to take advantage of this weakness, have a clear avenue of retreat. I can speak from experience that a maze of 6 ft tall spruce regen, interlaced with blowdown 2 ft off the ground, is not where you want to meet an amorous bull....especially when he doesn't measure up to @Randy Hodges standards....
ThunderNocked
Well-known member
Congrats.
And they are bigger then you think - especially once you get them on the ground.
And I haven't even shot a big bull yet!
And they are bigger then you think - especially once you get them on the ground.
And I haven't even shot a big bull yet!
Dakotakid
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2014
- Messages
- 789
I shot mine in the water…
ThunderNocked
Well-known member
how'd that go?
Dakotakid
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2014
- Messages
- 789
Made for an adventure.
Small moose chest shot at 30 yards, turned and he started to try to swim the lake. Air temp was little less than 30. Fortunately, he floated towards shore while we sawed a path through the 100 yards of deadfall.
We cut close to 50 trees just to get a zig zag path that allowed for crossing single down trees but not climbing over 5 foot of cross hatched timber.
I then stripped down to the base layer and with rope in my teeth waded out for him. On tippy toes I was able to lasso an antler.
Dragged him back, split him up and packed him out in 5 trips. He was not a huge bull, fortunately,
This was in BC in 2019.
Small moose chest shot at 30 yards, turned and he started to try to swim the lake. Air temp was little less than 30. Fortunately, he floated towards shore while we sawed a path through the 100 yards of deadfall.
We cut close to 50 trees just to get a zig zag path that allowed for crossing single down trees but not climbing over 5 foot of cross hatched timber.
I then stripped down to the base layer and with rope in my teeth waded out for him. On tippy toes I was able to lasso an antler.
Dragged him back, split him up and packed him out in 5 trips. He was not a huge bull, fortunately,
This was in BC in 2019.
ThunderNocked
Well-known member
Git'er Done!
I know most guys say don't shoot them in water. Have heard two guys who love to shoot them in water but they hunt from boats along the river.
I haven't gotten a big moose down yet but have gotten 2 smaller moose myself and helped with two others.
THIS IS MY YEAR (AK Res Hunt).
BenInMT
Well-known member
If I ever draw another tag I will scout as much as I can with the hopes of finding one I can keep tabs on and shoot opening day. Failing that I would wait until the last week of the season. On my only shiras hunt it took a lot of work and time to find the one I wanted.
brendog84cj8
Active member
After having a tag in 2019, just some brief thoughts.
Do lots of scouting.
Never pass someone on a dirt road in your area, without asking them if they have seen moose.
Hunt the rut.
Get yourself a sawed off wooden paddle for raking.
Learn both bull and cow calls.
Not necessary but I bought a portable 4stroke capstan winch just in case getting one out of water was necessary. Didn't have to use it for that but it helped pull my moose to a better spot to work on it once it was down.
Be prepared for a lot of work once it is down.
Do lots of scouting.
Never pass someone on a dirt road in your area, without asking them if they have seen moose.
Hunt the rut.
Get yourself a sawed off wooden paddle for raking.
Learn both bull and cow calls.
Not necessary but I bought a portable 4stroke capstan winch just in case getting one out of water was necessary. Didn't have to use it for that but it helped pull my moose to a better spot to work on it once it was down.
Be prepared for a lot of work once it is down.
LuketheDog
Well-known member
Calling works!
A buddy with much more moose experience than me uses a 5-gal bucket lid for raking trees, cut a handle into one side of it.
A buddy with much more moose experience than me uses a 5-gal bucket lid for raking trees, cut a handle into one side of it.
shrapnel
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2015
- Messages
- 2,299
Don’t do it alone.
