What Chainsaw Do You Run?

[Woodrow F Call]

The only reason I didn't buy a Stihl is because I owned two of the small 46fs trimmers that were terrible. They really just didn't last.

I bought a Husqvarna 440-E that really has been a good saw for the last few years.

It's not as heavy duty as what you are looking at, but that is my experience. If I were going up in size, I'd buy another Husky.

 

[Deleted member 20812]

I’m still using the Husky 61 my dad bought when I was 14.

 

[Nick87]

3 different sized stills, including the farm boss no complaints. Buy once cry once imo.

 

[AlaskaHunter]

I have a Stihl and a Husky, both are fine.
I use the Stihl about 90% of the time, just my personal preference.
I cut mostly birch, some white spruce ~6 cords per year.

 

[MThuntr]

I run a Stihl however growing up we used Husqvarna and HomeLite too

 

[Dsnow9]

In your case I would go with the Stihl farm boss. A little more money up front will be worth it. The biggest issue with occasional use on saws is a fuel issue. If the saw is going to sit for a while purchase the high octane pre mixed fuel that Stihl makes. It has a very long shelf life and does not contain any ethanol and the mix will not separate.
90 percent of saw problems are issues with the fuel gunking up the carb, not actually a saw problem.

 

[Brittany Chukarman]

Older Stihl 026 with a 20" bar and an 036 with a 24". The 026 fits me better but the 036 makes short work of a tree.

 

[Gellar]

I have a Stihl. Mostly cuz that’s what the local saw shop sells and services. I don’t think there’s anything wrong a husqvarna. Don’t forget the eye/ear protection and the chaps.

 

[marksjeep]

I have an Echo 590 for farm/ranch chores. It's worked great, starts fast, handles well.

 

[N2TRKYS]

Never run with a saw, that's dangerous. Lol

I've been using a Stihl MS290 Farmboss with a 20" bar for over 15 years and love it.

 

[deer_shooter]

3 Stihl's here. I run an 026 I bought in '91 that still runs great. Never had an issue. I have my dad's 038 he bought in '83 that I use a lot too for bigger stuff its heavy as all get out but runs strong. I bought a 360 a couple years ago also.

 

[Mainewoods]

I’ve always been a Johnsered guy, and run the 2159 currently. A bigger saw with at least a 20 inch bar would serve you best.

 

[sbhooper]

I have run both Stihl and Husqvarna. I am currently Stihl only. I have a big wood furnace and so I cut a lot of trees. I have not had one issue with my Stihls, but my Husqvarnas were OK too, for the most part. I have ms260, 250, 361 and a 441. All have their place, but for a small saw, my muffler-modded 260 is hard to beat. It starts easily and does well, within its limitations.

My kid is a wildland firefighter and he is a saw guy. They gave them new Makitas (Dolmar) last season. The saws cut well but have a terrible chain brake setup. They broke very easily.

If you are not going to be cutting anything very large, then a 50cc saw with a 16-inch bar will do. Gauge the saw on how much cutting and how big that you intend to do. Get a pro-level saw if you can afford it. Most home-owner/ranch class saws are alright, but the pro-level saws are just a better investment. Get the biggest saw that you can handle, for the jobs that you are doing (and afford). There are two things that you should do, no matter what kind of saw that you end up with.

First, run non-ethanol fuel in it-preferably premium. If you have to run ethanol, then do not leave it sitting in the saw for long periods.

Secondly, learn how to hand-sharpen your chain. If you take it to someone that uses a grinder, the chain will not last as long as with hand-sharpening and if the person is an idiot, he will actually burn the cutters on the chain. A sharp chain makes a good saw out of a mediocre saw.

 

[Hem]

Been using my Husky 266 for decades.
Still screams like a $aped ape.

 

[BigHornRam]

Stihl 026 about 30 years old and a Stihl MS 390 that's about 12 years old. Bought them both new and use them both frequently. Based on what new quality saws cost today, I would look for a good used one at a pawn shop right now if I was looking to buy.

 

[Mainer207]

I really appreciate all this feedback.
I’m leaning heavily toward the ms271 farm boss with an 18” bar. I’m not the most experienced, but want something with enough power to do the work. I think this saw is a pretty good fit for the price

 

[Dan O]

In 2004 I bought a Stihl 310 with a 20 inch bar. Between my brother and me it's been used to cut firewood for heating our homes every year. Still runs great. The chain sharpness makes or breaks a saw in my opinion.

 

[Mainewoods]

I really appreciate all this feedback.
I’m leaning heavily toward the ms271 farm boss with an 18” bar. I’m not the most experienced, but want something with enough power to do the work. I think this saw is a pretty good fit for the price

Good choice and good saw to learn with. A lot of people get intimidated by using a chainsaw and end with a small saw. Not only are they underpowered, but small and light saws are more dangerous to handle in my opinion.

 

[Southern Elk]

I really appreciate all this feedback.
I’m leaning heavily toward the ms271 farm boss with an 18” bar. I’m not the most experienced, but want something with enough power to do the work. I think this saw is a pretty good fit for the price

That is a good choice.

 

[Slam]

The saw recommendations are well covered here. Don't discount the Echo brand, I've owned 2 50CC saws over the past 25 years for limbing and bucking smaller diameter trees and have been really pleased with their overall performance.

I would recommend investing in chaps and a proper helmet with hearing protection and face guard. Having witnessed on two separate occasions someone take a kickback on the leg - (chains make nasty wounds) chaps are an inexpensive and potential life saving investment. Secondly, if you are going to be felling I highly recommend getting some training. Our regional forestry association (mostly land owners with tree farms) have annual classes taught by a certified logger on the proper techniques of felling (levels 1-5) starting with basic directional felling and moving up by degree of difficulty (leaners-broken tops-assessing tension-rotten cores-etc) - all good stuff. I highly recommend learning and understanding the dangers and proper techniques for felling.