Traditional Cap Guns - Let's See 'em!

[Dsnow9]

If anyone needs a match maker in this type of thing reach out to @BrentD. Thanks again! Can’t wait to learn how to do all this stuff!
View attachment 312531View attachment 312532View attachment 312533View attachment 312534View attachment 312535View attachment 312536View attachment 312537View attachment 312538View attachment 312539View attachment 312540View attachment 312541

 

[Nate Eller]

Not to revive an old thread, but anyone that says front stuffers aren't accurate can't shoot

 

[treydfoster]

Mines just a plain Jane 50 caliber T/C Hawken. How far are you guys killing deer with PRB? At 50 I’m shooting about a four inch group, offhand, with the occasional flier. I couldn’t shrink the group much at all shooting off a bench. I’d hate to try to shoot one over 75 yards away. I know guys shoot the conicals but I’d really like to shoot one with a ball.

I’m shooting .490, .015 pre lubed patches, and 80 grains of Hogdon Triple 7 FFg.

 

[shb]

Dialed loads slung with young eyes can keep em at an inch and a half at hunert and 15 yards.

 

[shb]

Benched

 

[Dan O]

Mines just a plain Jane 50 caliber T/C Hawken. How far are you guys killing deer with PRB? At 50 I’m shooting about a four inch group, offhand, with the occasional flier. I couldn’t shrink the group much at all shooting off a bench. I’d hate to try to shoot one over 75 yards away. I know guys shoot the conicals but I’d really like to shoot one with a ball.

I’m shooting .490, .015 pre lubed patches, and 80 grains of Hogdon Triple 7 FFg.

Try a .018 or .020 patch lubed with Track of the Wolf mink oil lube. Then go with BP 2f or 3f start with 70 grains and work your way up 5 grains at a time to 100 grains or where your accuracy comes together.

 

[treydfoster]

Try a .018 or .020 patch lubed with Track of the Wolf mink oil lube. Then go with BP 2f or 3f start with 70 grains and work your way up 5 grains at a time to 100 grains or where your accuracy comes together.

So explain to me a little about lube? Is it not enough to use a pre lubed patch? Also how hard should it be to start my ball, it’s pretty easy to shove in with my thumb

 

[Dan O]

So explain to me a little about lube? Is it not enough to use a pre lubed patch? Also how hard should it be to start my ball, it’s pretty easy to shove in with my thumb

Some patches are pre lubed and packaged. You never know how long they sit. I believe you lose the reliability of the lube over time. Cold weather is another issue does it work okay when below freezing? Mink oil is recommended by a number of guys that hunt in cold weather and they can leave their ML's loaded for days at a time and not harm the powder. There are many different recipes for lubes and everybody has their preference's. Another I've heard is pure Neats foot oil either straight or half and half with Mink oil. I have not tried this myself. I bought some Neats foot oil but have not shot it yet.

As for starting the ball and patch most people use a short starter then finish with your ramrod. I have Delrin rods that are hard to break with both my TC and Green River rifles. A tight ball and patch is important to accuracy. A good lube helps your patch from burning up and coming apart plus fowling control. Sometimes you will find accuracy nodes with a light load and again with a heavy load. Thats why trying a ladder test is helpful. Personally, I use either Goex or Swiss black powder in 2f or 3f. 2f is my go-to powder in the 50 and the 58.
I hope this answers your questions. Traditional muzzleloaders are fun but it takes some range time and getting information from others. Maybe check for clubs in your area that could really be fun and very helpful. Good luck and have fun.

 

[BrentD]

Some patches are pre lubed and packaged. You never know how long they sit. I believe you lose the reliability of the lube over time. Cold weather is another issue does it work okay when below freezing? Mink oil is recommended by a number of guys that hunt in cold weather and they can leave their ML's loaded for days at a time and not harm the powder. There are many different recipes for lubes and everybody has their preference's. Another I've heard is pure Neats foot oil either straight or half and half with Mink oil. I have not tried this myself. I bought some Neats foot oil but have not shot it yet.

As for starting the ball and patch most people use a short starter then finish with your ramrod. I have Delrin rods that are hard to break with both my TC and Green River rifles. A tight ball and patch is important to accuracy. A good lube helps your patch from burning up and coming apart plus fowling control. Sometimes you will find accuracy nodes with a light load and again with a heavy load. Thats why trying a ladder test is helpful. Personally, I use either Goex or Swiss black powder in 2f or 3f. 2f is my go-to powder in the 50 and the 58.
I hope this answers your questions. Traditional muzzleloaders are fun but it takes some range time and getting information from others. Maybe check for clubs in your area that could really be fun and very helpful. Good luck and have fun.

Dan, I do not find it makes much difference. My prelubed Wonder wads and Oxyokes are years old. Maybe a decade. They work just fine for me.

I tend to leave my flintlock or percussion rifles loaded for the entire Iowa ML season - which is variably 22ish days long.

I use .535" balls and 0.015" patches in all weather. Can be started with the ramrod, but a bit safer and easier with a short starter. If I could thumb them in, they would be too loose in my opinion.

Sometimes I put a felt wad between patch and powder. But only if I am showing some burn through on the patches. Always inspect your patches after firing!

Everybody's mileage may vary, of coufse.

 

[BAKPAKR]

Dan, I do not find it makes much difference. My prelubed Wonder wads and Oxyokes are years old. Maybe a decade. They work just fine for me.

I tend to leave my flintlock or percussion rifles loaded for the entire Iowa ML season - which is variably 22ish days long.

I use .535" balls and 0.015" patches in all weather. Can be started with the ramrod, but a bit safer and easier with a short starter. If I could thumb them in, they would be too loose in my opinion.

Sometimes I put a felt wad between patch and powder. But only if I am showing some burn through on the patches. Always inspect your patches after firing!

Everybody's mileage may vary, of coufse.

On my 54 cal T/C Renegade, I was sort of like Goldilocks — but I got the patch thickness down on the second try. The patches I used the first year I hunted with it were too tight, and I thought there was a real possibility that I would break my ramrod reloading. I had rushed things that year, having only decided to try our Heritage hunt after seeing a certain buck. I had to use the components I could find that late in the year. I got a thinner patch the next year and all was good.

 

[treydfoster]

Dan, I do not find it makes much difference. My prelubed Wonder wads and Oxyokes are years old. Maybe a decade. They work just fine for me.

I tend to leave my flintlock or percussion rifles loaded for the entire Iowa ML season - which is variably 22ish days long.

I use .535" balls and 0.015" patches in all weather. Can be started with the ramrod, but a bit safer and easier with a short starter. If I could thumb them in, they would be too loose in my opinion.

Sometimes I put a felt wad between patch and powder. But only if I am showing some burn through on the patches. Always inspect your patches after firing!

Everybody's mileage may vary, of coufse.

So if I can thumb them in with ease I should be looking at a thicker patch?

 

[BrentD]

On my 54 cal T/C Renegade, I was sort of like Goldilocks — but I got the patch thickness down on the second try. The patches I used the first year I hunted with it were too tight, and I thought there was a real possibility that I would break my ramrod reloading. I had rushed things that year, having only decided to try our Heritage hunt after seeing a certain buck. I had to use the components I could find that late in the year. I got a thinner patch the next year and all was good.

Busting a ramrod is a real concern, esp. when hunting in cold weather when the fouling can be both copious and tenacious.

One thing I do, which I do not necessarily recommend, when reloading after a shot, I blow down the barrel a few times. If you are a BPCR shooter, you know how dramatically this will soften the fouling. Anyway, just a FYI, not a recommendation.

Do this at a range with an RO or at a match and you will get in trouble. But while hunting, if you have grey matter between your ears and know how to use it, I do not feel this is dangerous - it just looks bad. I make a fist that I put on top of the barrel and blow through my fist into the barrel. You could also carry 10" of the correct size of Tygon or similar tubing for this. It also helps to clear the firing channel, including the nipple.

So if I can thumb them in with ease I should be looking at a thicker patch?

Or a bigger ball. I normally use balls that are 0.005" smaller than the nominal bore diameter.

 

[Dan O]

Trey here is a ram rod that works good with my TC Hawken 50 cal. It's pretty stout and takes a lot to break. Looks like they have them in stock.

Ramrod for Thompson Center Hawken, Cabela's Hawken, Investarm Hawken, 3/8" brown Delrin nylon, 28-5/8", flared brass tip, threaded 8-32 at front, 10-32 at rear. Made in the USA by Track of the Wolf, Elk River, Minnesota.

Part Number: RAMROD-285-TC Availability: Price: $26.99 Order Quantity:

 

[treydfoster]

Busting a ramrod is a real concern, esp. when hunting in cold weather when the fouling can be both copious and tenacious.

One thing I do, which I do not necessarily recommend, when reloading after a shot, I blow down the barrel a few times. If you are a BPCR shooter, you know how dramatically this will soften the fouling. Anyway, just a FYI, not a recommendation.

Do this at a range with an RO or at a match and you will get in trouble. But while hunting, if you have grey matter between your ears and know how to use it, I do not feel this is dangerous - it just looks bad. I make a fist that I put on top of the barrel and blow through my fist into the barrel. You could also carry 10" of the correct size of Tygon or similar tubing for this. It also helps to clear the firing channel, including the nipple.



Or a bigger ball. I normally use balls that are 0.005" smaller than the nominal bore diameter.

So why is the more common consensus to use the .490 instead of the .495?

 

[BrentD]

So why is the more common consensus to use the .490 instead of the .495?

Don't know. I use .495s in my wife's .50.

 

[Dan O]

https://www.tiropratico.com/manuali-pdf/T/Thompson-Center_Shooting_TC_BlkPwdr_Guns_Man.pdf

Here is a copy of the TC manual. They refer to using a .490 round ball. It's a starting point but a .495 will work also. I think each rifle is an individual and what works in one may not work in the next. Brents experience is a result of a lot of hands-on shooting and trying different combinations. His advice is well worth listening to.

 

[Nate Eller]

So why is the more common consensus to use the .490 instead of the .495?

More available, and easier to load when plinking. I have two loads, one a 70gr target load for the .54 pictured above, with a .530 ball and an 18 thousandths patch. My hunting load is a .535 ball with the same patch. I get more accuracy and more punch with the tighter ball patch combo, but with the looser loading combo, I get good accuracy, and can shoot 25 shots before it gets hard to load. The hunting load is 10 shots and it needs cleaning. All in what you want, and your rifle may require something different to get good accuracy