Tikka T3 lite barrel threading?

[Irrelevant]

Ok, this is a carryover from another thread I started last year, where I was trying to spend an unusually large bonus and wanted to upgrade my rifle.

Help me spend my bonus

Bonuses came out and they're.... um, good. I'll throw most if it at investments and savings for future real estate, but there is room for a frivolous new purchase. Options: Truck Cap: I debate this every year, it would be great most of the time, but I'll still need to take it off for firewood...

www.hunttalk.com

Being debby downer, I used it for a family vacation and bought some investment stocks.

I'm still less than thrilled with my Tikka T3 lite 270. I feel like getting it threaded to run either a brake or a suppressor, so I want to shoot it more. I am not going to "know" enough about this topic even if I researched the shit out of the internet and/or used Chat to help. So does anyone want to make any bold claims as to how much I should cut it down, and what brake (to start) I should try first? What's this business about "timing" a brake? I assume 5/8x24? Should I both with the stock barrel or jump to another fancy barrel (not carbon)?

 

[BAKPAKR]

Sell it and then buy one of the new threaded 6.5 PRCs.

 

[Camdu7]

You won't be able to thread a stock tikka to 5/8 24. You will have to go to 1/2 28. You will need to time a brake if it is directional. This can be done by the smith threading the barrell or with shims. I would just cut the barrell to 20", thread it, and get a suppressor. I have a 708 tikka cut to 18" with a Scythe Ti. It is a pleasure to shoot.

 

[Gulf of America]

My vote is suppressor too. I was next to a guy shooting a Tikka 270 with a radial brake (not even one of the bad ones) at an antelope and had forgotten my ear plugs and it was the worst my ears have rang from a gunshot. Get a can with the HUB interface (I have a Diligent Defense Enticer S-Ti and that would be my go-to recommendation for price/size/weight/performance) and a 1/2x28 end cap and you're good to go.

P.S. having my Rem 700 barrel threaded 1/2x28 was $150. So you probably save a few bones and some hassle by just threading the one you have, but selling and getting a new pre-threaded one is the fun answer.

 

[Wind Gypsy]

If you chop it short enough you can thread to 5/8x24 but still might need to add additional shoulder for a muzzle device to index against. 1/2 or 9/16" threads would be easier if just using a brake as they make brakes for those thread patterns. A self-timing brake is the easy button, otherwise either a gunsmith needs to time the brake or you just add/remove peel washer shims until it's correctly timed.

@p_ham made a solid thread explaining some threading options a while back. https://www.hunttalk.com/threads/barrel-threads.324359/

 

[Potsie]

You sound less than enamored with the rifle. What do you not like about it, or what’s 1 or 2 things that it’s lacking that you’d want it to have.

Maybe it’s a scrap it and move on situation. Clean slate it.

 

[brymoore]

Just go the full Monty!

Buy a new Tikka 280ai barrel threaded for a silencer. Put the barrel on yourself and go out and kill things with it.

 

[bluegrassdan]

Timing is making the rotation of the ports on the brake line up at 3 and 9 o'clock if they are typical in design. You do this by starting with a longer than normal length of thread on the end of your brake and then, through depth micrometer measurement and trial fitting, cutting the length of the brake so when it is fully torqued, the ports are dead nuts horizontal with the bore. A 5/8-24 thread moves the object .0416" laterally for every full 360° rotation of the part. So if you thread on your brake and the ports sit at say 4 and 11 o'clock when its tight, you may need to take off a few thousandths so that it can rotate on the barrel further and end up a 3 and 9. I prefer to cut the brake and not use crush washers or spacers, it just looks more professional and you normally only lose a few thousandths anyway. I make my own brakes, so before I the cut ports, I mount it and mark TDC and just save the extra fiddling around. As stated before, you will not have enough shoulder for torque if you try 5/8-24 on most sporter profile barrels. The other issue is, as you go to a 1/2-28 thread on bore diameters over 6mm (.243") you really start to get a thin wall on that barrel between the bore and the minor diameter of the threads. That is concerning and the possibility that because of the thin wall, tool pressure from the threading tool can start to impact/distort the actual bore diameter of the barrel under the threaded portion, creating a tight spot in the bore that may not always be concentric- not great for accuracy.

 

[Irrelevant]

You sound less than enamored with the rifle. What do you not like about it, or what’s 1 or 2 things that it’s lacking that you’d want it to have.

Maybe it’s a scrap it and move on situation. Clean slate it.

I'm less than enamored with the recoil. Everything else plays off that. I wish I'd gone .25 caliber. It kills things fine. I love the action. Will said he hacked his to 20" and 5/8x24 threaded it. As soon as I get back from WY I think I'll do the same

 

[brockel]

I'm less than enamored with the recoil. Everything else plays off that. I wish I'd gone .25 caliber. It kills things fine. I love the action. Will said he hacked his to 20" and 5/8x24 threaded it. As soon as I get back from WY I think I'll do the same

Factory pad? The guy catches a lot of shit about his YouTube channel but the backfire recoil pads are legit.

Backstop Recoil Pad

The Backstop recoil pad is a revolutionary design that is customized to your own rifle's recoil level. It comes with the "throne" protector for storage and has a unique dampening profile. Backstops are made to fit nearly every rifle style.

backfireshop.com

 

[Irrelevant]

Factory pad? The guy catches a lot of shit about his YouTube channel but the backfire recoil pads are legit.

Backstop Recoil Pad

The Backstop recoil pad is a revolutionary design that is customized to your own rifle's recoil level. It comes with the "throne" protector for storage and has a unique dampening profile. Backstops are made to fit nearly every rifle style.

backfireshop.com

No I have a B&C with a pachmayr decelerator. What makes them better than the other guys?

 

[jeremy.b]

Couple options, quite a few smiths can thread 5/8-24 and install an extra shoulder for a suppressor. I had Kampfeld customs just up the road north of Sandpoint do a number of factory lite barrels down to 20" (ish) and 5/8-24 with the shoulder.



Alternatively, it's not a big jump to pick up a take-off Tikka barrel in a different caliber, buy/borrow a decent barrel vice and swap it out. The new model barrels come pre threaded, but don't necessarily have the shoulder for suppressor support.

 

[Carl 9.3x62]

Let me know if you want to sell it!

 

[brymoore]

I'm less than enamored with the recoil. Everything else plays off that. I wish I'd gone .25 caliber. It kills things fine. I love the action. Will said he hacked his to 20" and 5/8x24 threaded it. As soon as I get back from WY I think I'll do the same

My son’s Tikka 270 lite kicked like a mule. One of the worst guns I’ve benched shot. Rebarrel and suppressor and its shooting cloverleafs.

 

[brockel]

No I have a B&C with a pachmayr decelerator. What makes them better than the other guys?

I’ve had factory, limbsaver, and the backfire one and it slows the recoil down the best.

 

[Irrelevant]

Couple options, quite a few smiths can thread 5/8-24 and install an extra shoulder for a suppressor. I had Kampfeld customs just up the road north of Sandpoint do a number of factory lite barrels down to 20" (ish) and 5/8-24 with the shoulder.

View attachment 390005

Alternatively, it's not a big jump to pick up a take-off Tikka barrel in a different caliber, buy/borrow a decent barrel vice and swap it out. The new model barrels come pre threaded, but don't necessarily have the shoulder for suppressor support.

Huh, do you need a shoulder like that?

 

[brockel]

I’d just thread the barrel 1/2x28 and run an adapter for your suppressor. Have done it many times

 

[brockel]

Huh, do you need a shoulder like that?

The new models flare out towards the end and are threaded 5/8” and have enough shoulder

 

[Forkyfinder]

Just food for thought - but a muzzle brake with a qd system (asr, keymo, etc) is handy. Especially if you want to use it on multiple guns.

Plus the added benefit can have brake on when you dont have a suppressor.

 

[Wild Bill]

Couple options, quite a few smiths can thread 5/8-24 and install an extra shoulder for a suppressor. I had Kampfeld customs just up the road north of Sandpoint do a number of factory lite barrels down to 20" (ish) and 5/8-24 with the shoulder.

View attachment 390005

Alternatively, it's not a big jump to pick up a take-off Tikka barrel in a different caliber, buy/borrow a decent barrel vice and swap it out. The new model barrels come pre threaded, but don't necessarily have the shoulder for suppressor support.

This is exactly what I have with my .308 Tikka T3X Lite and using a Banish 30.