Sell me on some rings

Oops. Correction to my earlier post. My WWII Springfield only has three screws to mount rings: two at front of receiver and one through the GI dovetail for A3 rear sight. The rear dovetail also acts as a "recoil pin" for the rail so two screws are adequate, especially for heavyweight rifle in moderate recoil 30-06.

One piece ring/base is, I'm sure, a good option but usually more expensive than rail and rings. Asthetics aside, I can't see how the former would be any better than than the latter for accuracy. The universality of a standard rail gives it a bit of an edge. Some scopes, like mine, with short tubes need more flexibility for mounting to attain proper eye relief. Expensive one piece base/rings would not work (even if someone still made them for Springfield). The scope would not mount close enough to my eye. If a scope on a rail is too high to find the crosshairs, the problem is usually the ring height, not the rail height. My rail is exactly the same height as the old Weaver bases it replaced. I agree that rails are typically a lot less pretty than one piece base/rings but they're usually a lot cheaper and more versatile. My rail has a cutout for magazine loading which makes it a little less tactical ugly.
 
. Even the twist in loopy rings have no advantages.
You’d be surprised how many rifles are no where near zeroed when the scope adjustments are centered. I’d bet 9/10 “bad scopes” are exactly that. Picatinny ring and bases have their advantages, ring/base combos have their advantages, and standard Leupold bases(or any Redfield style with a turn in front and adjustable rear) have their advantages.

I’ve gone to gettin near zero windage and 10+ MOA high in elevation with the scope mechanically centered using Redfield style rings or Burris Signature inserts before adjusting the the scope.

That problem is less common with a CNC machined action and a custom barrel. It’s also less common with some manufacturers than with others.
 
I have three Tikka currently, they all have sportmatch rings attached to the receiver. Seems like a solid easy set up.

Arizona air rifles is where I bought my last set and they were absolutely fantastic to deal with. Called them up and told them what I wanted, he told me what size I needed and couple days later I got ‘em.
After too much analysis paralysis, I finally called AAR and got on the list last week. Said he has 100 sets of T084s on order, so hopefully they make it across the big pond in the next few weeks.
 
I have two Tikkas, and two different ring setups. My 6.5 CM has a set of Sako rings with the inner ring. They set up super smoothly, and I haven’t noticed them since. My 300 WM has the Mountain Tactical Raptor on it. It fit super precisely and the scope slipped in with no binding. It looks amazing and I haven’t noticed it since either.
 
Picked up a Remington 5R Gen 2 in .308 and now I’m doing the rail/rings debate. I have a Vortex Viper PST 6-24x50 MOA EBR-2C ready to go on it but can’t quite make up my mind on a 0 MOA vs 20 MOA rail. Don’t plan on shooting more then 600yd but I’m an always be prepared guy so it’s got me torn. Will putting a 20 MOA have a huge impact on taking shots 250yd and in? Can anyone lend me some advice on this?
 
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Picked up a Remington 5R Gen 2 in .308 and now I’m doing the rail/rings debate. I have a Vortex Viper PST 6-24x50 MOA EBR-2C ready to go on it but can’t quite make up my mind on a 0 MOA vs 20 MOA rail. Don’t plan on shooting more then 600yd but I’m an always be prepared guy so it’s got me torn. Will putting a 20 MOA have a huge impact on taking shots 250yd and in? Can anyone lend me some advice on this?
No need for a 20MOA rail with that range.
 
Just purchased a Tikka T3x Roughtech Ember in .300 win. mag, going to top it with a Leupold vx3i 4.5x14 40 mm objective.

Anyone on here got an opinion on what rings should go on this thing? I have zero faith in the opinion of people behind the gun counter around here. Reading online I’m seeing good things about DNZ rings and Sportsmatch.
Any "GOOD" brand should sufffice. I'd go with a rail to start, with 0 MOA, 10 MOA or 20 MOA depending upon your expected shooting distance. I have Vortex, Leupold and TPS Products rings and prefer the lighter aluminum alloy version. I like the streamlined look of of the Mark 4s and those like them. No corners or sharp edges to catch on stuff or gash your hands.

I have an extra set of TPS custom low and Mark 4 medium rings both for a 30mm tube if you're still looking.

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Not sure if they are all spoken for already, as they were backordered for a month and a half, but my Sportmatch T084s showed up last week from Airguns of Arizona. I think he had 100 sets on the order.
 
I usually run Talley but I am trying Warne pic rail with rings on a freshly built rifle. They seem pretty stout and sturdy for aluminum. Might be going to the range tomorrow to try them out.
 
I'm going to try Leupold pic rails and Warne quick detach low rings on a t3x. A 40mm obj should clear, but haven't set up yet.

I'd previously tried some some Burris medium height steel rings for the T3x (attach directly to receiver and have recoil lug). Great quality, but slightly taller than I preferred. If anyone's interested in some leupold backcountry rings for a T3x (30mm tube) let me know -- great condition. Took them off a rifle I bought slightly used.
 
I have 4 sets of sportsmatch rings for tikka currently but I do like the looks of the new unknown munitions rings that have more flexibility with recoil pin placement for what IMO is a really fair price.
 

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