Seized engine torque converter removal

[kwyeewyk]

Swapping the engine on my 15 Sierra 1500, 5.3l, old engine is seized so can't can't turn it to expose the bolts on the torque converter. Managed to get the engine out, used some cut off bolts through the bellhousing holes to guide it off straight. Was hoping I'd be able to get to them, but 1 could only get an open end wrench on and it was stripping, couldn't get anything on 1 of them. Took the oil pan off and tried to start pulling the bearing caps to see if that would free it up, but didn't have an engine stand and having to use a large breaker bar to start them, working upside down, caps half siezed in there, was going very slowly. After I pulled the pan I was able to get to one of the torque converter bolts out, and managed to get box end of wrench on one but that kept slipping and stripping on the head too.

Considering trying to cut the flex plate around the 2 remaining bolts. Thought about trying a cutoff wheel on angle grinder but don't know how well that will cut the flex plate. Also considering cutting torch but a little worried about heating the wrong spots up too much. Or get an engine stand and take all the bearing and piston caps off. The transmission was replaced recently and it's a heavy duty torque converter so don't really don't want to just buy a new one, but also considering that, although most want a core so would cost even more than it should. Flex plate is like 40$ so not worried about that.

Anybody know any tricks for this problem?

 

[Irrelevant]

Man, I'm in the wrong class, I thought this was Greek 101, not 304.

 

[Mallardsx2]

25 pounds of tannerite.

It will be worth it.

Trust me on this one.

 

[kwyeewyk]

25 pounds of tannerite.

It will be worth it.

Trust me on this one.

Thought about that too, but it's a Great Mound of Crap, so worried about the splatter!

 

[Forkyfinder]

Im kind of wondering why you arent just taking the engine/trans out as one unit with a cherry picker? Sure its heavy/long and awkward, but with it out i feel like you'll be able to get it free and turn it over without rounding bolts off.

I get that its more work and stuff to disconnect but it seems like youre going to be using one to change the engine anyway.

 

[kwyeewyk]

Man, I'm in the wrong class, I thought this was Greek 101, not 304.

Sad part is, it's actually something that should be really simple, remove 3 bolts. It's been the little hang ups that are eating time on this job, trying to get plastic clips and connectors apart without breaking them, breaking stuck bolts with no room to work, 3mm per turn on a box wrench that you can't see that bolt head, etc.



This is the one I got the box wrench on but even using a pry bar to hold it on the bolt it's slipping and stripping. Below is the section of flex plate that connects to the converter that would need to be cut around the bolt, or cut off the teeth on the plate and then cut the bolt head off the back side.

Im kind of wondering why you arent just taking the engine/trans out as one unit with a cherry picker? Sure its heavy/long and awkward, but with it out i feel like you'll be able to get it free and turn it over without rounding bolts off.

I get that its more work and stuff to disconnect but it seems like youre going to be using one to change the engine anyway.

Yeah got it pulled without the whole tranny, it's hanging from the picker. Thought that would get us there but not quite.

 

[Addicting]

Flex plates are cheap. Cut that sucker and bend the ring gear out of the way to get to the bolts.

 

[kwyeewyk]

Flex plates are cheap. Cut that sucker and bend the ring gear out of the way to get to the bolts.

How would you cut it, torch?

 

[Addicting]

How would you cut it, torch?

I would use a cut off wheel so I had better control. But if all I had was a torch that would work too. Cut it 2” and put a adjustable wrench on it and bed it backwards.

 

[andrew11]

I have done both ways. Looking at the pictures not sure if you would be able to get enough access to cut all the way through. I think pulling main caps until you can turn it with a bar is still your best bet

 

[Dakotakid]

If the engine is out, any reason to not flip over pull the pan and free the crank?
Would seem easier than cutting pressure plate.

 

[kwyeewyk]

If the engine is out, any reason to not flip over pull the pan and free the crank?
Would seem easier than cutting pressure plate.

Yeah I either need to get an engine stand or just set it on the ground upsidedown, I started that process with it hanging from the picker but it wasn't going well like that. Got one bearing cap off, second one got it loose a little but wasn't wanting to come out. The piston bolts are not all accessible either without being able to turn it so might have to get lucky based on where it's actually stuck?

Unfortunately I'm working on it a couple hours from my house, so shopping for the easiest fix, going to try to get back to it next week, gotta get hunting!

 

[Addicting]

If you want to save it, take the heads off. If it’s not a stuck piston then it is a bearing stuck. You can always take a 2x4 and beat the piston free.

You can get a 3/8 swivel in to loosen the rod bolts. If it is just a main then that’s easygoing access even from a cherry picker.

 

[44hunter45]

$50 for an engine stand on Craig's List. I keep my core motors on them. Then you dis-assemble the journals and tie rods to pull the crankshaft. That would give you breaker bar access to the torque converter bolts.

Have you tried a flare end wrench? That might fit on there and not strip the head.

Next thing I would try is the right sized ratcheting box end at autozone. I would thin it on the grinder until it fit through that gap between the block and the bolt head.