Resurrecting "Red Green" a tough Toyota.

My replacement lights clouded up after a few years. Darks.
A 18 inch LED bar added to the new bumper fixed the problem.
 
BTW - If you love these trucks, you have to watch Jeremy Clarkson's series "Killing a Toyota" on YT.
As far as I'm concerned this was one of the worst films... Sent Toyota Hilux prices through the roof
Didn't stop me buying one though, corrosion started to take over, it's living out it's last days o a nearby farm
So I went out and bought..... another!
Too bloody smart and clever for my needs really, first Auto I've owned.
All Hilux trucks now being recalled as chassis corrosion causing issues, so Toyota offering treatment or new chassis free of charge
Mines going in for a check next month

Love your truck though👍
 
Manifold repairs today.
9/16-12 x1” bolts. Drilled a small bleed hole through each one.

Set with DevCon Steel epoxy. The weep holes allow squeeze out.

After 25 hours cure time I will face these off flush and drill and tap them to M8-1.25.IMG_5487.jpegIMG_5486.jpeg
 
Another "Sucks to be me" day in the Toyota restoration business.

I got the bolts which I epoxied into the manifold faced off and the first of three drilled and tapped for M8-1.25. The work is bolted to the press table and after drilling, I chuck up the tap and start it by hand turning the chuck. That way it is perfectly aligned in the hole I just drilled.

I got set up to drill the second hole and my antique drill press just hums when I turn on the switch. Knowing I love cool old machines, you can understand why my FIL's postwar Delta Homecraft is special to me. It is one of three shop tools he bought when he got home from WWII. When he died, I got his drill press, lathe, and scroll saw.

I have another drill press, but I'm already set up on this one right?

I check and see the carbon brushes in the motor are shot. One is completely gone. No problem, I can swap the motor over from the lathe. Except I haven't done the grounded cord conversion on this one. I pull the motor off the lathe and do the cord conversion on the bench. Then I remove the old motor from the drill press and hang the replacement motor (which I note is not exactly the same).

After lots of Touret's getting all three axis aligned, pulley swapped and leveled with the driven pulley, I wire it up.
Throw the switch and it is spinning backward. I am familiar with how to reverse a modern single phase motor, so NBD. Yeah, it is on a 1940's slow start single phase. The side plate says "non-reversible".

Ok - I can just scavenge the brushes, right. Nope, square peg round hole. Literally.

The good news is that you can still get replacement brushes for a 1940's GE 1/6HP motor. The bad news is that I won't get them until at least Friday. So everything I did is a do-over.

Done whining. Now I have to move all the work to my other drill press.
 
Another "Sucks to be me" day in the Toyota restoration business.

I got the bolts which I epoxied into the manifold faced off and the first of three drilled and tapped for M8-1.25. The work is bolted to the press table and after drilling, I chuck up the tap and start it by hand turning the chuck. That way it is perfectly aligned in the hole I just drilled.

I got set up to drill the second hole and my antique drill press just hums when I turn on the switch. Knowing I love cool old machines, you can understand why my FIL's postwar Delta Homecraft is special to me. It is one of three shop tools he bought when he got home from WWII. When he died, I got his drill press, lathe, and scroll saw.

I have another drill press, but I'm already set up on this one right?

I check and see the carbon brushes in the motor are shot. One is completely gone. No problem, I can swap the motor over from the lathe. Except I haven't done the grounded cord conversion on this one. I pull the motor off the lathe and do the cord conversion on the bench. Then I remove the old motor from the drill press and hang the replacement motor (which I note is not exactly the same).

After lots of Touret's getting all three axis aligned, pulley swapped and leveled with the driven pulley, I wire it up.
Throw the switch and it is spinning backward. I am familiar with how to reverse a modern single phase motor, so NBD. Yeah, it is on a 1940's slow start single phase. The side plate says "non-reversible".

Ok - I can just scavenge the brushes, right. Nope, square peg round hole. Literally.

The good news is that you can still get replacement brushes for a 1940's GE 1/6HP motor. The bad news is that I won't get them until at least Friday. So everything I did is a do-over.

Done whining. Now I have to move all the work to my other drill press.
@El Jason
Not Sad. Just Pop's legacy. He was the kind of guy who secretly loved it when his '55 Chevy Deluxe wagon overheated and he had to get it going with electrical tape and pond water. He would put on the Darin McGavin "Christmas Story" show, but he was having the time of his life. Lived his best years tootling around the west in his Dolphin Mini Motor home with his WWII trophy P-38 Walther under the seat. He really could fix anything with tape and pond water. He helped me do the first Red Green rebuild in 1993.

So maybe not a Sucks to be Me day, but a Bud is smiling kind of day.

You just sparked an idea. Since he was an Army Air Corp guy in the war, maybe I will stencil his name under the passenger door window.
 
Relearning perseverance. Maybe I will stay out longer and kill something this fall.

I moved the work to my other drill press and the belt exploded when I hit the switch. Plan C worked. I took the motor off the new drill press and put it on the old one.
That must turn the right way. Yes, except that the shaft that fits my pulley is coming out the bottom. SO - I had to flip the motor in the mount and THEN reverse it.

It's a Tim the Tool Man Taylor upgrade. 1/6HP to 1/2HP. You better make sure that work is clamped down now. Got all the holes done and tapped. Hole alignment was almost perfect.
The heat shroud goes back on nicely.

Ready to re-assemble the exhaust system on the truck. I'm itching to get mobile again.

IMG_5498.JPG

IMG_5501.JPG

IMG_5502.JPG
 
Cool.
I store extra chains on the DP base, mobile base.
Love my old tools too.

I replaced my worn heads & manifold. R22.
 
To quote the old guy I drove my 1965 Land Cruiser past on three cylinders, "She's a runner!"

I got the exhaust all back in and took it for a drive to burn off oil machining oil from the manifold and cook in the gaskets. Now I'm actually hearing the engine when I drift the USFS roads instead of the exhaust leak.

Now that I can hear it, I think there might be some pitting on fifth gear. Oh well, Imma run her 'til she blows. In my mind, the more I use 5th, it will smooth in. I never hit 5th jamming the back roads and I never figured this for a highway rig. The highway is just for getting to the fun stuff.

Dang thing is a hoot to drive! Now that the Carbon Monoxide is no longer a problem, we're reaching the point where MRS45 is going to "borrow" it. I told her if she claims it I am going to go buy another one just like it for his & hers.

@Beignet - You planing on Rendezvous? I wasn't going to go, but might drive over for Saturday.
 
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Some things are just unobtainium after 40 years. This shift boot is one. Glued it up with a vulcanizing super glue product. Back up support from The Handyman's Secret Weapon.
- Duct Tape.


This actually goes facing down on the 5 Speed shifter. It has painted duct tape on the up-facing side also, but that is hidden inside a black leather boot.

The leather boot is shot also, but I am stitching a new one with red thread.

IMG_5507.JPG

IMG_5508.JPGIMG_5510[1].JPG
 
Today in Red Green Land -

I spent 4 hours diagnosing and repairing why the fancy new LED headlights won't toggle from high beam to low beam.

Observed what happened when I flip the switch for a while. Even with the OEM bulbs in something not right. I have both high and low elements on in low beam position.
Pull out the meter and my factory shop manual and start taking measurements. I trace the issue back to the new Asian clone light/hazard/blinker combo switch I put in.
I have to pull the steering wheel off and open up the column and I figure out everything works with the old OEM combo switch. Why did I replace that? because is has an intermittent wiring open and it will randomly leave you in the dark.

I have the OEM from the truck and two old ones I kept from other vintage Toyotas I scrapped out. They are not like for like but do share sub-assemblies I can use. I pitch the cheap chinese one and frankenstein one together from what I have.

Just got done reassembling everything and the new LED lights toggle high/low correctly now. I had to order a resistor pack which I will put in to make the high beam indicator in the instrument cluster work. The LED lights do not pull enough load to activate that circuit. The resistors will take care of that.

I really would love to make a bear glassing run. But I do not want to deal with the possibility of a dead anything when it is 87°F outside.

Gonna drive to metropolis and pick up some things at Autozone for kicks.
 
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