Rebuild of an '85 Bass Tracker Boat.

Eh, thankfully when I offered my Harbor Freight special electrical thingamajig... he smiled and replied, "No, I'll get mine. Be right back". šŸ¤£
Otherwise he would've figured what you shared and FIL chat #... would have commenced. Haha!

What is tgs name of the item the red probe is touching in that picture? Starter switch or?
 
It does around 15-18mph. Sounds smooth, runs clean though 5500 rpms for a mostly flat bottomed semi V hull aluminum seems far off its mark.

There a good guide regarding the trade offs between increased size / pitch / blades or a guru that can speak as if writing a Props for Dummies book? šŸ˜…

If I understand these motors for this boat should push 30
 
I've tried that site however, it does not seem to permit a 1985 (19XX) merc 50hp.
Lowest motor size.. 150 2 stroke.
tried various bpat types, etc.
See screen pic

View attachment 149856
Sorry to lead you astray. By going up 1 pitch you should gain 200 or so rpm and you will lose that if you go down. 5500 rpms is probably close to what your motor should be doing but I feel like you should be getting better speeds out of it. Maybe try buying a prop 1 pitch higher and trying it out. Aluminum vs stainless can make a difference too. The aluminum being soft flexes and is not as efficient. A stainless is more efficient and durable, but also quite abit spendier.
 
Replaced the starter solenoid and still nodda.

I'm searching the net for an electrical diagram, not that ill unstand it off the bat though if i study it long enough maybe it will decipher itself... haha!

Since I have juice running to the motor, from that point to the starter, I'm thinking there is a fault somewhere between those two points?
Trying to figure how to test the juice to the starter solo.
I suppose it's possible I happened to get a new one that is bad. There a way to test that theory?

Edit: Found the electrical diagram. The green/red to the starter solenoid is my target. I can not find the circular plug to test/follow the wire(?). Is the diagram more a generic overview or w/o such piece does that signify some after market personal modifications? (edit: found it.)
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I believe the, "rectifier" is the unit just below the solenoid starter(?). This is where all the base juice runs into the motor area? Not speaking of the heavy amperage wires direct from the battery, though the 14-16gauge wires that are used to switch the bridge for the solenoid and route elsewhere for the simple juice w=in the motor.

Apologies for the dummies attempt to describe though trying to follow along.

I'd imagine that is also a switch type block (?) and while it flips the switch for the "click" noise (carbs, fuel, etc), it may not be switching the juice to flow for the solenoid starter switch portion.
is that a fair troubleshoot of the setting and possible problem point? If i turn the key on and hold it then test for juice flow out of the "rectifier" and check the juice flow from the solenoid starter, ill have possibly found my issue(?). Darn... I'd rather stay below the radar with the boat and wife. She's very tolerant (deals with me makes that a fact) however, would be nice to minimize her interactions with my Break Out Another Thousand... šŸ¤£

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Oh, I've switched my Harbor Frieght electrical tester to DC. šŸ˜† thanks.
 
Thanks all. I'd like to say it's been a project of love though labor seems more fitting. Heh!

We had a few bass out of Bull Lake near Troy and this Saturday, we're off to another for some hopeful smallie fun.

I'll be sure to post up... if we get into them. Its been great with everyone's help here!

Thank you.
 
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